HUnter 37.5 Handrails

[Scott NIelsen]

I am going to replace the handrails on my 1996 Hunter 37.5. Does anyone know how they are bedded/mounted to under the deck? Is it plywood, aluminum backing plates glassed into the underside of the deck? I assume the handrails are just screwed through the deck into a plywood core. The reason I ask if aluminum backing plates is that when I had a 1979 Hunter 30 and was replacing the traveler I discovered there were aluminum backing plates glassed in under the deck to recieve the mounting bolts. Not only was there aluminum, the glassed in aluminum backing plates were tapped for the bolts, making the reinstallation easier and more secure than I believed was going to be the case.

 

[PAC3142]

I just replaced them on my 1994 37.5. They are attached with wood screws, so the backing isn’t aluminum.

Paul

 

[smokey73]

I have a 1994 Hunter 40.5 and there are metal (probably aluminum but I'm not sure) backing plates for the stanchions and the handrails making the installation fairly straight forward.

 

[Scott NIelsen]

Thanks for the replies. I was hoping for aluminium backing plates. I will do the fill with expoxy and drill a hole so no water intrusion. PAC3142, did you have in water inrusion that you you could discern? Did you replace with wood or go to metal handrails?

 

[PAC3142]

I made new teak ones. No sign of water intrusion, and the boat had a thorough survey two years ago when we bought it, including moisture meter. I tried to do a good job bedding them down. Mainsail on this forum has links to propper ways to use the bedding compound.
Paul

 

[Second Wind 3]

Since they are attached with wood screws, I remove them every year and re-varnish in the garage, at home, where it's easy to control everything. I filled the countersunk holes with plugs and reinstalled with a nice new exposed oval head screw. I like the look of the teak and this makes the process easy.

 

[Scott NIelsen]

I like the look of the teak, but do not like the maintenance. I am systematically relacing the wood topside so that I do not have the wood maintenance. I have the materals, just waiting for it to warm up. I am going to replace the wood handrails with 1" diameter stainless tubing. I have two different approaches, one is use existing mounting holes with stainless end plugs in the tubing and the other is to raise them a bit using fittings similar to those used for mounting bimini's. I have material for both. I will let the Admiral (wife) decide as to which is (looks) better. As to the teak strips in the bow pulpit and stern seats, I am just going to remove them. I will use starboard for the companion pull. That will relieve me from the teak maintenance topside. I still have all that beautiful teak down below to maintain. That is a whole lot easier as I just use the oil to rub into the wood with a cloth. I do that a couple of times a year when I run out of projects. I am going to have to go sailing a lot more since I am running out of projects, darn.

 

[Second Wind 3]

We feel your pain....

 

[Scott NIelsen]

After purchasing 1"stainless steel tubing and fittings in two eight foot lengths (each handrail is 4'), 1" diameter HDPE in 4' lengths (basically starboard that is round), and 1"x24"x48" sheet of HDPE (starboard off ebay, much cheaper than the evil empire), I made them out of the HDPE board. Very easy on my little table saw and router. I did not lose the use of the stainless steel tubing as I have used them to make hard struts for my bimini, dodger, and a securing board (tube) for extra fuel/water containers between my stanchions. I just need to ficure out what I can use those 1" diameter HDPE rods for.