HELP!!! Please

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cooper

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Mar 25, 2013
28
Hunter 49 Delaware
Help, Please. We purchased a 49 2008 Hunter last month and are currently having problems with the Yanmar 110 Turbo diesel 4jh4-hte.
When we had the sea trial conducted at Nanny Cay in the BVI the engine overheated after only 3 minutes at 3000 rpm-it went to 210 F. The Nanny Cay marine repairs were supposed to have fixed it and said it was the heat exchanger. On the next sea trial the same thing occurred and they blamed having forgot to refill the coolant. After several more sea trials the problem had apparently been fixed.
The following has happened since and we are now currently in the Dominican Republic and there is only 1 Yanmar dealer B&R Marine who happens to have quoted us in writing $530.00 USD to travel to Ocean world marina and inspect the engine, however, the "techs" will have no equipment to repair what it is believed to be (a blown head gasket) and they will then charge the same amount to come back and replace the head gasket after ordering from the US. I have emailed Yanmar asking for help as I am astounded they can allow one of their recommended repairers to charge such fees and not even carry spare parts.
I have listed the following brief history of what has happened at the hope that someone maybe able to help with advice. We have had a total of 5 different "local marina" mechanics look at it a give 5 different opinions. The only constant is that the coolant system is losing fresh water from somewhere and the engine is losing RPMS after only reaching a maximum of around 1100 rpms and blowing white smoke briefly when you advance the throttle fully (but still only delivers 110rpms before stalling). HELP please. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Over the last few weeks we have sailed, motor sailed and motored our way over to the DR. After crossing the Mona Passage without any issues we checked all fluid levels and then headed North. I added around a quart of coolant (the 50/50 one recommended by Yanmar for the engine).

It was from here that we have since had endless problems.

I will describe what has happened, however, much of it may be irrelevant, however, I thought it best to include everything.

We were crossing the Hourglass shoal heading North (it is around 150' deep) and had been motor sailing for around 2 hours at 2200 rpm in light winds. Without warning the motor pitch changed and the engine dropped around 400 rpm and the temp rose immediately to 205 when the "Hot Engine" alarm came on. This all occurred within less than 5 seconds. We had just at the same time been hit by a very small wave on our starboard side-coincidence?, we have previously spent all our travels with trailing seas. I shut down the engine and we sailed for around 2 hours in to a safe anchorage. I checked the following.

1. Sea cock/ through hull valve. CLEAR and flowing well.
2. Sea strainer. Clean and flowing well.
3. Impeller. Fully intact, NOT dry and only replaced last month. I did however replace again as it had taken such an effort to get to it.
4. Fan belt-OK.
5. Coolant level-reservoir-EMPTY. Previously FULL in the morning.

I added more fluid (approx 2-3 quarts in total!).

I then restarted the engine. It ran without any heating issues.

The next morning we motor sailed again for 9 hours in total. I powered up at around 2600 rpm to get out of the anchorage due to heavy seas and then remained on 1600-1800 rpm for the remainder of the day with trailing seas. The temp varied from 130-136. When we had reached the area of our destination I powered up again as we approached the harbour and had dropped sails. The engine would NOT power more than 2200 rpm with the throttle fully advanced. the engine became erratic and the rpm would swing wildly from 2200 rpm down to around 1300 rpm. We had 75% fuel load (checked visually as well). I reduced throttle to around 1300 rpm and arrived safely at the marina.

The Marina mechanic at Samana (Peurto Bahia) worked on the engine for around 2 hours replacing both fuel filters (the Racor filter/seperator had some water in it) and the main filter in the engine he said was a "little heavy". He also replaced the fan belt and cleaned the air filter and again replaced our 3rd impeller (again it had no problems with it and I now carry 3 spare impellers). Again today the reservoir was empty at the end of the trip and the engine took around 3 quarts again to fill. The mechanic felt the water was "escaping" from the engine somehow. (He communicated through a translator to us). He checked for water in the oil and oil in the water and said that it was not a blown head gasket as there is no evidence of water in the oil or vice versa. He arranged for another diesel mechanic to come out from Samana and have a look at the engine as it was still running erratic. The other mechanic found no noticeable problems and started the engine and ran it for about half a minute up to around 2800 rom without any issues. They both assured us that we could run it until we reached Bahamas when we could get a Yanmar mechanic to look over the engine.

We left the next morning and motor sailed for around 2 hours comfortably sitting on 1800 rpm at 125 degrees F. I was going into the waves on a very flat sea. When I turned North and again had seas on my starboard side I found that as they started to build (only around 3-4 ') as they would make contact with the hull the rpm rate would change by around 150-200 rpm. After around an hour or so they then start to drop off at about 200 rpms per hour. I back off and try and increase the rpms again, however, they do not go above the previous rpms prior to me backing off the engine. From around 1000 rpms and below the engine stops within around half an hour. The temp sat on around 114 F. I stop the engine for around half an hour and then do the whole thing again. We used around half a pint or less of fluid for the day (12 hours motor sailing). We arrived at Rio San Juan on the North Coast of the DR and had a mechanic arrive the next morning who started the engine up and again it revved up to around 2400 rpm and he said it was all good to keep going (there is NOT a lot of choices for mechanics in that area). We idled and off and for the first 2 hours the engine sat nicely at 1800 rpm. Then as the waves increased (again on our starboard side) the engine would again start to lose rpms with each wave action-again seas 4-5 ' maximum-more of a slight rolling swell). Again over the next few hours the engine idled off and would stop. After around 4 hours it stopped and would not restart. As the winds had died off and the waves were increasing we had to resort to arranging for a very expensive Dominican Republic sea tow to bring us into Ocean World Marina, Peurto Palto, DR. This is where we now are and again they are going to get another local mechanic and again we will spend hundred more dollars and we are still getting nowhere. At present, the engine will not start at all. It does turn over, however, will not fire. The battery is 12.7 V, fuel 40% visual and on gauge as well.

We are able to sail the boat, however as we have our 12 month old baby with us my wife likes to have the assurance of having an engine for times like yesterday when there are very light and varied winds, but increasing seas.

Any help/advice you may have would be greatly greatly appreciated.
 
Jul 25, 2007
320
-Irwin -Citation 40 Wilmington, NC
Well this is an interesting one. It almost sounds like 2 issues. Let's look at the stalling and low RPMS first. This really sounds like a fuel issue and the fact that you are having trouble with the waves on the starboard side would make me thing supply issue. The basic precept of any trouble shooting is to start at one end and systematically work your way to the other. So with that in mind I would verify fuel supply and free flow from the pick up to the engine. Pull the pickup tube and check that first then check every fitting to the fuel filter. Use a electric or had pump to verify good fuel flow on the far side of the filter. watch the filter bowl for air bubbles as you pull fuel thru it. Once all that is verified as good bleed the engine and see what happens. As for the over temp and losing coolant it sounds to me like a leak in the heat exchanger not a head gasket. most mechanics should have a pressure tester for radiators. might have to borrow one from a car mechanic but if you can find one it would help. this is a special cap you place on the coolant tank in place of the cap and it has a air pump to pressurize the system. you can then disconnect the raw water hose to the exhaust elbow and see if water comes out. If it does it is the heat exchanger. This is what I would look at given the info you provided. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 

cooper

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Mar 25, 2013
28
Hunter 49 Delaware
Hi, Thanks very much for this info. I will source out a local mechanic tomorrow to pressure test and see how it goes. One of the local "marine mechanics/handyman" also had the same thought, however, I have already paid out a fair bit of money to "local mechanics" which prompted us to go for a Yanmar dealer.....we just didn't expect them to be so over zealous in their charges. I will do the fuel supply check myself. I will be sure and let you know how I get on. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,893
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
I agree with Wayne.. also check to be sure you've gotten all the water out of the fuel filters again.. good luck
 

cooper

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Mar 25, 2013
28
Hunter 49 Delaware
Thanks for that.......it will be my first job in the morning and I will post back tomorrow night if I manage to have any success. Cheers
 
Jun 5, 2004
485
Hunter 44 Mystic, Ct
I think that Sailvayu is on the right path with two potential problems. When I took possesion of our factory new boat we had similar RPM problems though not the overheating problems. The engine would run fine for awhile and for no apparent reason lose RPMs and would not Rev up. It took awhile but the mechanic traced the problem back to a hairline crack in the Racor Fuel Strainer housing. Everytime the boat flexed or healed in a specific direction the crack would open up just enough to let some air in and we would lose engine RPMs. Take a very close look at the Racor housing remembering that the crack if it is there may not show up unless you try to flex the housing.

Hope this helps
 

splax

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Nov 12, 2012
692
Hunter 34 Portsmouth
fault diagnosis

Sorry for your troubles.
A compression check is a way to check for head gasket problems.
Pressuring the coolant system is a way to look for leaks, but if the leak is from tubes in the heat exchanger, you need to drain the sea water side and open it up. Leaking tubes will cause the loss of coolant and the rapid temperature increase because it is a failure of the coolant system. It sounds like tube(s) are separating from the end cover due to temperature and pressure. Perhaps the bolts were not tightened properly.
Fuel flow sounds like a good diagnosis with the RPMs dropping when rocked from the starboard side. You may have a hole in the pick-up tube.
The problem you have figuring this out is that when the fault occurs the system is operating at nominal temperature, pressure, and RPMs.
 
Last edited:
Jul 23, 2009
857
Beneteau 31 Oceanis Grand Lake, Oklahoma
a couple of questions

This sounds like 2 problems to me also.

Does your motor use a mechanical throttle or electronic ( cable or "dirve by wire")?

Have you checked the lift pump?

The fuel shut down solenoid could be a problem. I have seen one fail on large Cummins generator, it would idle down but not shut off.

Pressure testing the cooling system should be a simple job for any good auto mechanic.

Good luck.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Cooper: This may be a little off subject but do you know if everyone is using the same type of anti-freeze. This can cause issues with the coolong system. Yanmar recommends extendedlife like Dexcool. I am not sure I would use this based on where you are sailing because of availability.
 

richk

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Jan 24, 2007
488
Marlow-Hunter 37 Deep Creek off the Magothy River off ChesBay
We had a problem with losing coolant. Engine overheated, alarm sounded.... Happened on a multihour trip from an anchorage. Limped home by refilling coolant reservoir manually with potable water. Very puzzling.

Turns out the hose system running to/from water heater ran through a stringer. Holes in stringer were too small, vibration over the years wore a hole in the hose and we were losing coolant into the hull liner. Redid holes through stringer, replaced hoses and coolant. No problem since.
 

cooper

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Mar 25, 2013
28
Hunter 49 Delaware
Thank you everyone for their advice. I will check these and see how we go. I will post the Yanmar dealers "diagnosis" when they come out next week as well in regards to the cooling system. Unfortunately we do not have access to a pressure tester so are reluctant to have anyone start pulling the system apart. The "dock walker" mechanics that the marina provided us did not have any pressure testing equipment at all. So thanks for all the tips and we will start with the fuel system/pick up and racor filter as these are within my ability. THANKS HEAPS ALL WHO REPLIED!!!
 
Sep 25, 2008
1,096
CS 30 Toronto
Got to local auto parts store and get dye tracer and a UV (black light) light bulb. Any leak shows up in the dark as the dye light up by UV.

No dye tracer, use food coloring. It wont show under UV but you can see where it leak.

Neither dye or coloring hurt fibre glass.
 

cooper

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Mar 25, 2013
28
Hunter 49 Delaware
Thanks for that, we do have food colouring on board so we will give that a try. Cheers and Thank You.
 
Jun 1, 2009
1,748
Hunter 49 toronto
I'm fairly certain about the issue

Thanks for that, we do have food colouring on board so we will give that a try. Cheers and Thank You.
Chris,

As per my email to you, the problem is likely the hot water Heater.
You mentioned you don't have hot water under engine. This is very simple . Your coolant isn't circulating through the tank heat exchanger, or its leaking into your tank. I suspect the latter, as you have a combination of overheating & losing coolant.
 

cooper

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Mar 25, 2013
28
Hunter 49 Delaware
Thanks again Arthur, firstly we have now completed the engine access modification-if only I had known that one last week when we changed the impeller! Today I checked the diesel hose/filter at the tank-it was clear. Checked the Racor filter for a crack-No luck with that one. Added food colouring (sorry for the spelling, but we are Aussies and that's how we spell colouring!) however, no coloured fluids came out the exhaust-it did show up on the inlet hose to the hot water tank, however, I could not find any access to check for the colouring after the HWS. I had not realised to mention that we had no hot water after running the engine-I was not aware of the correlation between the 2.....sadly I am a sailor, and not quite yet a mechanic. Thanks everyone for the advice. Art, I am still unsure where to check post HWS for any leakage/blockage? Also, would this tie in with the decrease RPMs or is that still likely to be a separate issue? Thanks again everyone for your tips.
 

weinie

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Sep 6, 2010
1,297
Jeanneau 349 port washington, ny
Does your hot water taste like antifreeze at the faucet?
 

cooper

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Mar 25, 2013
28
Hunter 49 Delaware
To my wifes disgust I just tasted the water and it does not appear to have any distinct taste about it at all. Our antifreeze we use is the orange one that Yanmar recommend, however, the water is definitely clear. As we filled up our water tanks in the DR everyone warned us about drinking the local water, hence my wifes disgust. It sounds very logical that this is the cause though.
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,776
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
In addition to the earlier advice, you might want to check to see if you have an inlet screen on your fuel pickup inside the tank. If so, remove it. You should be able to relatively easily pull the fuel pickup hose out of the tank. Also sounds like you might have some water inside your fuel tank.

The hot water heater is essentially another heat exchanger. The freshwater coolant from your engine runs not only through the engine, but also through the HW heater, to heat the drinking water on board. That's why you were aksed if your drinking water tastes funny.

I also strongly suggest that you buy and read Nigel Calder's Boatowners Manual for Mechanical & Electrical Sytems. It's probably about the best $65 you can spend.

You have a BIG boat. Either you're gonna keep spending lotsa $$ on "mechanics" (shade tree variety) or you can become a mechanic yourself. Many of us did just that.

Your boat, your choice. :)

When or if you replace the HW heater, if you need to do so, you will have to "burp" your engine, this means getting any air out of the loop of hose between the engine and the HW heater. Do a search on "burp" on this board and you'll find links to earlier discussions about this.

It sounds like your raw water system is doing just fine. I'd find out where the heck the coolant is going. Mixing Dexcool and regular antifreeze is a no-no, so make a choice on what you will use (I'd suggest non-toxic regular anitfreeze, about $18 a gallon full strength (mix it 50/50) in the States).

Good luck.

PS - You might also want to post your tales of woe over on www.cruisersforum.com, they have a LOT of very good technicians over there, an given your cruising story, you should get to know them if you haven't already.
 
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