Mariachee: I am sure you remember, I have the drop spare as well, but so far, never needed it. Chief
Help! Need trailer tongue extension advice
- Thread starter jmczzz
- Start date
I mentioned it because I saw the pictures showed a winch stand much like mine. Simple mod to drill a couple of holes and add a drop spare. The dolly wheels look like they can take it, but they really can't. One twist and they'll collapse like a wet noodle. Turns into a "now what" moment really quick.
Chief,
I used the 1500 lb 2 wheel model. Slow and steady is the key and good recon before hand. The little wheel did ok and I didn’t have many apprehensive moments. My home made trailer has the center of gravity just an inch or two forward of the single axle.
And Meriachee,
As you can see I chose to not try to launch at the flooded ramp because it does drop off and I did not know exactly how far and how deep that would be. The pic shows I used a nice straight asphalt road that goes down to a parking lot. I knew that approach was straight and I waded out to shoulder depth on that road. I would not make a habit of launching that way with the wobbledicky. However, I wanted to get my boat back in the water after bottom paint and the flood caught me.
I think a self made retractable wheel that could withstand more abuse could be constructed if one was to make this type of launch a habit.
But if it becomes necessary, try to recon as much as possible and think through all that might go wrong. Even move signs and break the rules if necessary.
Thanks Chief, I asked my wife why she seemed to take only pictures of me rather than the trailer and boat. She said cause I was “cute”! (Imagine that. She’ll get her eyes checked ASAP)
James
I used the 1500 lb 2 wheel model. Slow and steady is the key and good recon before hand. The little wheel did ok and I didn’t have many apprehensive moments. My home made trailer has the center of gravity just an inch or two forward of the single axle.
And Meriachee,
As you can see I chose to not try to launch at the flooded ramp because it does drop off and I did not know exactly how far and how deep that would be. The pic shows I used a nice straight asphalt road that goes down to a parking lot. I knew that approach was straight and I waded out to shoulder depth on that road. I would not make a habit of launching that way with the wobbledicky. However, I wanted to get my boat back in the water after bottom paint and the flood caught me.
I think a self made retractable wheel that could withstand more abuse could be constructed if one was to make this type of launch a habit.
But if it becomes necessary, try to recon as much as possible and think through all that might go wrong. Even move signs and break the rules if necessary.
Thanks Chief, I asked my wife why she seemed to take only pictures of me rather than the trailer and boat. She said cause I was “cute”! (Imagine that. She’ll get her eyes checked ASAP)
James
James: A drop down spare is one mounted inline on front of trailer and can be rotated down,pinned and then acts as a dolly wheel. If wife thinks you are still cute: go for it! ha Chief
James,
Have a look at some of the trailer in the blog listings below, here's a quick video of the actual launch this year.
https://youtu.be/mUXYqxIjiec
There's a slider on the upright of the winch post, and there's two holes, one for the "up" position and one for the "down" position. The wheel is mounted on a spindle, and can slide up and down the post, hauled up with the winch strap. The dolly wheel is also the spare.
The launch ramp here is a great angle but they were forced to use individual concrete strips, and they have moved apart over the years.
cheers
Gary
Have a look at some of the trailer in the blog listings below, here's a quick video of the actual launch this year.
https://youtu.be/mUXYqxIjiec
There's a slider on the upright of the winch post, and there's two holes, one for the "up" position and one for the "down" position. The wheel is mounted on a spindle, and can slide up and down the post, hauled up with the winch strap. The dolly wheel is also the spare.
The launch ramp here is a great angle but they were forced to use individual concrete strips, and they have moved apart over the years.
cheers
Gary
James,
Designed and built right here. Modified and strengthened right here too. The original design actually bent the connector plate, we were assured by the theivin' crooks at the steel place that it was real steel, and they fibbed.
What it is made of is a piece of 4" receiver tube that you'd use for a trailer hitch on your truck. It is about 6" long, and slides up and down the centre post.
There's a plate that is welded to it, that goes down to the hub, and welded to that. The wheel bolts to the hub.
There are two holes through the post, one at the bottom and one at about the 1/3 mark. The "slider" has a hole though it, and a simple trailer hitch pin hold it in place, passing through the slider and the post. Does that make sense? In the "lower" position, the trailer is just about level, and in the "upper" position, the wheel is far enough up to clear the ground.
The whole assembly is heavy/awkward to raise and lower, that's where the strap comes into play, there is a 1" ring welded to the slider that the strap hook can grab to raise or lower the assembly.
You raise the trailer up just a bit with the crank dolly wheel, and then lower the real dolly wheel into place and pin it, then lower and put the crank dolly away.
The attached picture shows the various parts, (barely) You can see the strap hook is connected to the ring on the slider. The plate extends down behind the tire, but all it does is connect the hub to the slider. You can see a locking hitch pin just above the tire, the hole is drilled fore and aft. The lower hole is 1/2" above the weld at the base, so there's clearance. All very scientific, and of course your measurements would be different.
I will get some decent pictures, and maybe a video when we are next out at the acreage.
cheers
Gary
Designed and built right here. Modified and strengthened right here too. The original design actually bent the connector plate, we were assured by the theivin' crooks at the steel place that it was real steel, and they fibbed.
What it is made of is a piece of 4" receiver tube that you'd use for a trailer hitch on your truck. It is about 6" long, and slides up and down the centre post.
There's a plate that is welded to it, that goes down to the hub, and welded to that. The wheel bolts to the hub.
There are two holes through the post, one at the bottom and one at about the 1/3 mark. The "slider" has a hole though it, and a simple trailer hitch pin hold it in place, passing through the slider and the post. Does that make sense? In the "lower" position, the trailer is just about level, and in the "upper" position, the wheel is far enough up to clear the ground.
The whole assembly is heavy/awkward to raise and lower, that's where the strap comes into play, there is a 1" ring welded to the slider that the strap hook can grab to raise or lower the assembly.
You raise the trailer up just a bit with the crank dolly wheel, and then lower the real dolly wheel into place and pin it, then lower and put the crank dolly away.
The attached picture shows the various parts, (barely) You can see the strap hook is connected to the ring on the slider. The plate extends down behind the tire, but all it does is connect the hub to the slider. You can see a locking hitch pin just above the tire, the hole is drilled fore and aft. The lower hole is 1/2" above the weld at the base, so there's clearance. All very scientific, and of course your measurements would be different.
I will get some decent pictures, and maybe a video when we are next out at the acreage.
cheers
Gary
Attachments
Jerry, that is brilliant !
Using a dolly like that would make is so much simpler and cheaper to build, and it should roll on rough surface ramps unlike the the small jack wheels.
I'll be picking one up today.
Eventually I may build something like you have Meriachee, but in the mean time...
I had seen these awhile ago before I built my cradle for the bottom job, I was looking at ways to make moving the trailer in and out of my garage without hitching up my truck. My only concern with extending the handle and adding a hitch coupler; isn't up-ward force being applied? I know the hitch coupler has its 'lock', but that's all that is keeping the thing from flying straight up off the hitch ball and the tongue of the trailer down to the ground, hard. I'm thinking not all ramps are very smooth, bumps and depressions make four a bouncy ride.
Jerry, that is brilliant !
Using a dolly like that would make is so much simpler and cheaper to build, and it should roll on rough surface ramps unlike the the small jack wheels.
I'll be picking one up today.
Eventually I may build something like you have Meriachee, but in the mean time...
I can't see it being too much of an issue.
Depending on the length of the extension the upward load probably wouldn't be much.
Of course you would have safety chains on it just like you would with the trailer.
Putting a strap over the top would probably solve the issue of the risk of it lifting.
Maybe Watercolors has some first hand advice in regards to that ?
The upward forces can be significant. Have a look at the dolly wheel in this video, it does at one point come clean off the ground, and while it's not in any danger of going over, it shows that there's a lot more going on than one would think. This is with a good solid 600lb on the tongue when it's on the truck.
https://youtu.be/mUXYqxIjiec
https://youtu.be/mUXYqxIjiec
Okay all you smarty pants ...
Can we look at the super-extended ball hitch method again for a moment?
I'm wondering how thick the square tubing would need to be/how long the extension could be. I found some 11 gauge (.125") galvanized 2" tubing, in either 6' or 8' lengths. Type of steel was not specified, but it's a fencing supply company if that's a clue. Can any of you braniac engineers tell me how long an extension this 11 gauge material might make? It's a long shot, but I figured I'd ask.
@ Cloud ... looks to me like downward force is what's going to be applied, regardless of how long you extend the handle. Am I missing something?
Can we look at the super-extended ball hitch method again for a moment?
I'm wondering how thick the square tubing would need to be/how long the extension could be. I found some 11 gauge (.125") galvanized 2" tubing, in either 6' or 8' lengths. Type of steel was not specified, but it's a fencing supply company if that's a clue. Can any of you braniac engineers tell me how long an extension this 11 gauge material might make? It's a long shot, but I figured I'd ask.
@ Cloud ... looks to me like downward force is what's going to be applied, regardless of how long you extend the handle. Am I missing something?
Gene,
There is no issue at all using 2", 1/4" wall aluminum, except that you must NOT allow it to bend. The push/pull must be straight. My 15' piece weighs about 40 lb, and it's been used I think 7 times now, 4 out and 3 in. Thus far so good.
There is no issue at all using 2", 1/4" wall aluminum, except that you must NOT allow it to bend. The push/pull must be straight. My 15' piece weighs about 40 lb, and it's been used I think 7 times now, 4 out and 3 in. Thus far so good.
Gene, check out Timo42's extending tongue. Here is a link to a nice thread that covers all you need to know. The length depends on your trailer and ramp slope as well as your vehicles. Too many variable to generalize. Telescoping into the existing tongue is the way to go IMHO.Can we look at the super-extended ball hitch method again for a moment?
I'm wondering how thick the square tubing would need to be/how long the extension could be. I found some 11 gauge (.125") galvanized 2" tubing, in either 6' or 8' lengths. Type of steel was not specified, but it's a fencing supply company if that's a clue. Can any of you braniac engineers tell me how long an extension this 11 gauge material might make? It's a long shot, but I figured I'd ask.
@ Cloud ... looks to me like downward force is what's going to be applied, regardless of how long you extend the handle. Am I missing something?
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=573983&highlight=timo42 tongue trailer
Attachments
The next post in that thread, looks suspiciously similar to Watercolors! 2 wheel trailer dolly idea.
Gene:
Looking closer at the photos, of that harbour freight dolly I don't think you are missing something... I could be wrong though... Like you, I'm not a brainiac engineer LOL
The way the dolly is built, when the dolly is stationary, the handle should lift or drop or be neutral, depending on if the ball+axle portion was vertical or leaning forwards or backwards.
If the handle was extended straight along it's normal plane, and attached to the hitch.. the dolly ball would be in front of the dolly axle, and push down on the handle.
You'd likely have to alter the ball mount so the ball itself is not on an angle.
But we may both be missing something... including coffee.. which I need btw.
An extendable tongue is out for my trailer. The neck is 2.5" x 4" tube on its side, a rectangle; so no standard tube will nest inside anyway.
For right now I have 2 lengths of hitch receiver stock that are 2 feet long each and two of the hitch stock that are 12 inches that nest in the long pieces. I'm hoping it will buy me about 5 feet that sockets right into my class 3 hitch receiver, the the hitch ball at the far end... I'll post a pic later today.
My trailer tongue is a bit longer than others' as designed, and I believe my hull/keel sits a bit lower than average... I'm hoping all that is enough!
For right now I have 2 lengths of hitch receiver stock that are 2 feet long each and two of the hitch stock that are 12 inches that nest in the long pieces. I'm hoping it will buy me about 5 feet that sockets right into my class 3 hitch receiver, the the hitch ball at the far end... I'll post a pic later today.
My trailer tongue is a bit longer than others' as designed, and I believe my hull/keel sits a bit lower than average... I'm hoping all that is enough!