Help Identifying/replacing cam cleats on 260

[Tyler Rippel]

I have a growing list of issues to address this off season, but one of the more annoying ones is a Harken fairlead installed on the starboard side cam cleat that has cracked at the top of the plastic. The fairlead bows outward and at times the starboard jib sheet will accidentally release.

How can I determine exactly what I have on there now and what the best course of action is for replacement? I have a photo of the working port side cam cleat setup but for some reason didn't make a photo of the starboard cleat/fairlead.

I'm a total newbie, so any help is appreciated. Thank you!

 

[Tyler Rippel]

I've found what looks to be the same as what I have on there for the fairlead, but now I'm not sure if I should just go ahead and replace the cam cleat as well to be sure it hasn't been bent or worn, and then there's the issue of replacing parts that seem to now be discontinued vs. dropping $100+ for a new cam cleat kit on both sides.

 

[Joe]

Just look in any marine catalogue under sailboat hardware to match it up. Your picture shows what appears to be a Harken 150 cam cleat with roller fairlead on the left, next to a double rope clutch, probably made by Spinlock. They're two separate types of line holding devices... i.e. cleats or clutches.
The fairlead can be removed and replaced from the cam cleat. The cam cleat will work fine without the fairlead... it's there to make it more easily adjustable when holding the line at an angle. The one pictured below fits the Harken 150 cam cleat and is priced at $16,95.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

In the old days, eye straps were used on some and found that was easier to use than the above covers. Eye straps from harken should have the same distance from the screws but measure first. The machine screw holes are drilled and tapped to fit a machine screw to an aluminum plate encapsulated in the fiberglass. When removing, remove the old sealant and clean and reapply sealant to the base and some around the threads. DO NOT USE 5200 HERE OR YOU WILL BE SORRY.

 

[Tyler Rippel]

I'm not sure if there may be something wrong with the cleat, because if it was fine it shouldn't pop out with just a cracked fairlead. Now I just need to decide if I can live with un-matching cam cleats or if I buy two and replace port and starboard.

 

[Tyler Rippel]

In the old days, eye straps were used on some and found that was easier to use than the above covers. Eye straps from harken should have the same distance from the screws but measure first. The machine screw holes are drilled and tapped to fit a machine screw to an aluminum plate encapsulated in the fiberglass. When removing, remove the old sealant and clean and reapply sealant to the base and some around the threads. DO NOT USE 5200 HERE OR YOU WILL BE SORRY.

What sealant would you suggest? Hopefully the previous owner didn't use 5200 then!

 

[JRacer]

I would use butyl - See MainSail's information and installation instructions here: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...-deck-hardware-with-bed-it-butyl-tape.117172/

Available from here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

see if there is a shim kit for that jam cleat as you want to shim it upward removing the old base as the red is the base for the jam cleat.

 

[MaxinCalgary]

The standard cam cleats, do not have fairleads on them.
I added fairleads and locked out the cam cleats.
The jib sheets lock on the winches . I can release the jib sheet this way . Rather than having a jib sheet locked under load .
I leave the clutches for the main halyard and swing keel.
The remaining port clutch I use for the reefing line.