covering wax?

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gettinthere

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Nov 26, 2008
1,966
Endeavour 42 Cruisin
My deck paint is old and is checking in spots. Bigger than swirl marks, almost as big as gel coat spider cracks.

Is there a wax that can fill/hide/cover these cracks?
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

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Feb 6, 1998
11,671
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
gettinthere said:
My deck paint is old and is checking in spots. Bigger than swirl marks, almost as big as gel coat spider cracks.

Is there a wax that can fill/hide/cover these cracks?
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Not that I have seen. I would try to learn to live with it until a repaint. Once it has started it is nearly impossible to stop or fix other than a full strip and re-paint. Waxing a deck can be a deadly fix. Slippery is not good on-deck.
 
G

gettinthere

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Nov 26, 2008
1,966
Endeavour 42 Cruisin
This would not be on any non-skid, mainly on cabin sides. anyplace I normally walk has non skid in good shape.
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

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Feb 6, 1998
11,671
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
gettinthere said:
This would not be on any non-skid, mainly on cabin sides. anyplace I normally walk has non skid in good shape.
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Still don't know of a product that will hide paint crazing and checking well. Wet sanding a buffing may diminish it but it could also make it worse. I'd clean the deck with some bleach to get any mold out of the cracks and that may be your best approach.
 
G

gettinthere

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Nov 26, 2008
1,966
Endeavour 42 Cruisin
Why would I cover the whole deck with non skid? The existing non skid is fine, the issues are on the cabin sides where it's smooth surface. Not covering the cabin sides with non skid.
 
RichH

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
"My deck paint is old and is checking in spots. Bigger than swirl marks, almost as big as gel coat spider cracks. " .... so you have deck paint on the cabin sides? Confused.
 
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gettinthere

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Nov 26, 2008
1,966
Endeavour 42 Cruisin
The exterior areas above the toe rail are painted. The flat surfaces you walk on have non skid. The dog house 'cabin sides' (vertical surfaces) and small parts of the deck between the non skid are gloss paint over fiberglass. Some of the vertical surfaces of the cabin or coach exterior have this paint checking. So there is no need for non skid on these surfaces.
 
RichH

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Understand now.

Checking paint is usually due to poor adhesion (poor primer or poor preparation, etc.) and for a 'decent' job should be entirely removed and the whole job 'redone' from scratch. But, you imply that you dont want to do this 'drudgery' at this time.

You might even find such a 'wax remedy' already made in an 'artist supply' - (real) artists crayons made with Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) white pigment, etc. Such may also have a bit of WHITE LEAD in the content.
If you cant find real 'artist' (with TiO2 + LEAD) crayons, suggest you find an 'old time' paint store, one who can MAKE custom paint. Start with paraffin wax softened with mineral oil, and add titanium dioxide (white) pigment, etc. until the colour approximates the current colour. You can also find titanium dioxide + LEAD pigment from entities that cater to the model/hobby industry ... or even 'artist suppliers'.
'Work' the mixture until it becomes like a 'soft crayon'. PUSH/RUB the mix into the checking to partly hide the 'cracks'. Clean the surface with a solvent such as NapthaBenzene (purified gasoline or just plain gasoline). Then buff-out the whole area.

An alternative would be to seek out some leaded enamel 'sign painters paint' - product called "ONE SHOT" (wont find such in eco-crazy areas). Tint the paint to match the colour that is there - dont 'tint' or color match yourself if you are over 35 years old ... as oldsters dont perceive 'red' very well. Tint and color match with primary colors of ONE SHOT (black, blue, yellow, green, red) into the white. Dip the paint with a soft rag and WIPE the paint into the crazing immediately followed by a thinner wipe of the surrounding surface. Let cure/dry for at least 30 days, then power buff the surface to remove any residual 'haze'. You can also use 'hobby shop' aniline dyes for the 'tinting'.

You will need to do the application often as the wax/paint will ultimately oxidize and may change color. You will obviously have to do a 'serious extraction' of the wax before restoration or repainting and especially *BEFORE any sanding* for the 'prep' of any 'new' paint job.

Is this the kind of advice youre seeking?
 
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