So I have a 1990 35.5 legend with the original hood 810 furler. Time to change the furler. Extrusion rivets are going bad and I do not like the continuous line - it jams in the drum at the worst times. Done with this furler. I am looking at a Selden 204S. I am sure I am not the first guy to want to do this change so I was hoping there was someone out there that has made the change before that would share their experience.
The complication comes in that I am in Albuquerque and my boat is in Mexico. I have lots of pictures, a few measurements (never enough) and would like to purchase the furler without having to go down again. I think that will mean I will need to change the forestay length using something like a tang or chainplate to extend the location where the toggle connects to the furler above the deck. I don't think re-engineering the location of the forestay attachment is a good idea or one I want to tackle. I know I can get custom tangs made at RigRite.com.
In addition, I will need a new Jib - cut for the furler above deck instead of below deck. I will need to have the new jib when I install the furler so I need to get the new measurement before the furler is installed. I do have the old jib in my possession and I think I can calculate the new luff length as (old luff - new tang length). Sound reasonable?
I will be doing this myself, with the assistance of a "rigger" in Mexico. I have used him once before to change my forestay that was birdcaged at the top because of a furler jam before I bought the boat. I am concerned I may have done the same thing as well. With the new forestay I used a swage at the top and Sta-lok fitting at the bottom to adjust length. I will change the forestay again because of the stress of potential birdcaging when the Hood 810 jams
The complication comes in that I am in Albuquerque and my boat is in Mexico. I have lots of pictures, a few measurements (never enough) and would like to purchase the furler without having to go down again. I think that will mean I will need to change the forestay length using something like a tang or chainplate to extend the location where the toggle connects to the furler above the deck. I don't think re-engineering the location of the forestay attachment is a good idea or one I want to tackle. I know I can get custom tangs made at RigRite.com.
In addition, I will need a new Jib - cut for the furler above deck instead of below deck. I will need to have the new jib when I install the furler so I need to get the new measurement before the furler is installed. I do have the old jib in my possession and I think I can calculate the new luff length as (old luff - new tang length). Sound reasonable?
I will be doing this myself, with the assistance of a "rigger" in Mexico. I have used him once before to change my forestay that was birdcaged at the top because of a furler jam before I bought the boat. I am concerned I may have done the same thing as well. With the new forestay I used a swage at the top and Sta-lok fitting at the bottom to adjust length. I will change the forestay again because of the stress of potential birdcaging when the Hood 810 jams