O'Day veterans, I am looking at a 1976 O'Day 25. This boat is old but looks good. Can this still be structurally sound being this old. What are some of the most hidden dangers of this old of a sailboat? Thank you...
Can a 1976 O'Day 25 still be Solid?
- Thread starter mccadamsoday
- Start date
Owned one, fixed it, sold it. Check ALL the deck penetrations for leaks and softness. That deck is balsa cored and rots. The chain plate penetrations end up leaking and rotting the bulkheads. Chain plate can tear out and down comes the rig. Lots of structural wood which, yes rots. Honestly, and yes this will p.o. O' Day owners but, I would never own another O' Day again. Couldn't give me one. They also don't sail well. The 25 is a camper that floats and that's about it. Find something newer that sails well. My personal experience and recommendation.
It can absolutely be sound. Our ‘77 h27 is sound as a bell. The three most common structural issues with examples from our boat are:
1. Water gets into the balsa/plywood of the deck sandwich and turns it into mush. The most likely locations are where hardware goes through or into the deck. For us, it was the mast step.
2. Incomplete repair of a prior impact with a boat, pier, hurricane, etc. We hit a rock with our keel. There was no visible damage, but we took it to a reputable yard. They found cracks in the 1 inch thick fiberglass at the back of the keel from prior strikes. These cracks can grow over time, so we had them lower the keel, sand away the cracks, and lay fiberglass to bring the hull back to its original thickness.
3. Blisters are places where the compound that embeds the glass fibers liquifies for some reason. It’s somewhat common for boats from the 70’s and early 80’s. Although we found a number of them when we sandblasted the bottom recently, they were all small, so filling them before repainting the bottom was easy. And, they were never a structural issue.
Good luck with your find!
1. Water gets into the balsa/plywood of the deck sandwich and turns it into mush. The most likely locations are where hardware goes through or into the deck. For us, it was the mast step.
2. Incomplete repair of a prior impact with a boat, pier, hurricane, etc. We hit a rock with our keel. There was no visible damage, but we took it to a reputable yard. They found cracks in the 1 inch thick fiberglass at the back of the keel from prior strikes. These cracks can grow over time, so we had them lower the keel, sand away the cracks, and lay fiberglass to bring the hull back to its original thickness.
3. Blisters are places where the compound that embeds the glass fibers liquifies for some reason. It’s somewhat common for boats from the 70’s and early 80’s. Although we found a number of them when we sandblasted the bottom recently, they were all small, so filling them before repainting the bottom was easy. And, they were never a structural issue.
Good luck with your find!
Last edited:
My 25 is also a 1976 and had a single owner for over 35 years and was talen care of. That said she need much attention over the last 18 months. I'm also learning still and she has served us well. Most are usually very bad and need tons of repairs. I'm happy I started with the 25, it has taught me a lot and is helping me understand what I want in a future boat.
Yes! Likely? No.
CB32863 gives you examples of areas to be concerned about but O’day isn’t the only boat builder who used balsa cored decks, chain plates bolted to bulkheads and wood encased in other areas to strengthen the boat. Chainplates can leak and if ignored allow the water get into and rot bulkheads. And chainplates bolted to bulkheads isn’t that unusual.
Can you buy a better built boat to avoid these issues? Of course. Just increase your budget.
What to look for? As CB pointed out, rotting bulkheads from leaking chain plates, wet decks from other penetrations poorly sealed, especially around the mast base. These should be relatively easy to find with an idea what to look for.
I think the biggest hidden issue may be rotten plywood incased in the transom to support the rudder hardware and outboard bracket if equipped.
My 80 O’day 25 was very dry and structurally sound.
Just because a boat was built in the 70s doesn’t mean it can’t be structurally sound. You just have to know the weak points and what to look for.
Good luck with it.
I had a 1975 O'Day 27. Loved it. Sailed well and was well built compared to other boats of the same era. They can have issues as stated above due to time alone, so look out for them. But they are repairable if you are handy. There's nothing innately wrong with the brand. And probably less susceptible to osmosis blisters than many other boats of the era.
I own a '73 O'Day Mariner. There are likely problems that need to be addressed. If you are at all handy with a stirring stick, a paint brush, a putty knife, sand paper, wrenches, drill and maybe even a hand saw, there is very little that can't be made new again.
I bought my boat from a photograph, a phone call and the knowledge that I can fix anything with a little time and fiberglass.
It was stupid and I wouldn't recommend it, but it worked out for me. Mostly it was the phone conversation, getting to know the seller, that did it for me. That and the Mariner is a beautiful little boat.
Buying tips: look at who you are buying from. If their car is older but still in great shape, the boat is clean and any damage over the years has been repaired well, they talk like they loved their boat, know what they are talking about, and care about their world, they probably took good care of their boat until they decided to sell.
If there is grass growing on the bottom, forget it.
If the lines are rotting, forget it.
If the repair job in the bilge where the centerboard trunk started to crack at the junction with the hull is sloppy and inadequate, they ignored other issues or didn't do a good job with them either.
Does the deck flex when you walk on it?
If the bilge is clean and dry it might have a leak. If the bilge has water in it, it does have a leak, if the bulge is a little dirty but dry, you're good. If its too dirty, the owner is a slob or neglectful.
My Mariner has an iron CB. They rust and swell in the trunk sometimes. This can be fixed, but it is an issue. Mine wasn't bad at all.
If you tap the hull with a plastic hammer or screw driver handle you can hear where the core is rotting.
The Mariner sometimes leaks at the hull to deck seem. Water in the bilge when on the hard will help indicate that.
Beyond all the issues mentioned above, a thorough visual inspection and inventory are called for. Test the winches, they are expensive to replace. Work all the working parts like the kickup rudder. Drop and raise the centerboard. Hoist the sails and listen to them. Is the stitching brittle and cracking when handled? My replacement main was just over $500 and that was cheap.
Rust is another enemy. All fitting and bolts, turnbuckles and cables should be marine stainless or the appropriate material to prevent rust. Then there is the trailer. That can often make or break a deal. It isn't unusual for these older boats to not be in great shape, but the trailer is worth more than the asking price. They are expensive and hard to find used, so make sure that is in great shape too. You can save yourself a lot of expense, over the years, having a good trailer. Marina charges, storage, etc., life is easier with a good trailer.
Take her out for a sail with the owner and watch how he handles the boat as well as how the boat handles.
The age of your prospective boat can indicate problems, but it is not a problem in itself. There are still 100+ year old boats sailing out there, they have the advantage of being well loved and cared for by their owners.
I hope this is one of those boats for you. Good luck.
- Will (Dragonfly)
I bought my boat from a photograph, a phone call and the knowledge that I can fix anything with a little time and fiberglass.
It was stupid and I wouldn't recommend it, but it worked out for me. Mostly it was the phone conversation, getting to know the seller, that did it for me. That and the Mariner is a beautiful little boat.
Buying tips: look at who you are buying from. If their car is older but still in great shape, the boat is clean and any damage over the years has been repaired well, they talk like they loved their boat, know what they are talking about, and care about their world, they probably took good care of their boat until they decided to sell.
If there is grass growing on the bottom, forget it.
If the lines are rotting, forget it.
If the repair job in the bilge where the centerboard trunk started to crack at the junction with the hull is sloppy and inadequate, they ignored other issues or didn't do a good job with them either.
Does the deck flex when you walk on it?
If the bilge is clean and dry it might have a leak. If the bilge has water in it, it does have a leak, if the bulge is a little dirty but dry, you're good. If its too dirty, the owner is a slob or neglectful.
My Mariner has an iron CB. They rust and swell in the trunk sometimes. This can be fixed, but it is an issue. Mine wasn't bad at all.
If you tap the hull with a plastic hammer or screw driver handle you can hear where the core is rotting.
The Mariner sometimes leaks at the hull to deck seem. Water in the bilge when on the hard will help indicate that.
Beyond all the issues mentioned above, a thorough visual inspection and inventory are called for. Test the winches, they are expensive to replace. Work all the working parts like the kickup rudder. Drop and raise the centerboard. Hoist the sails and listen to them. Is the stitching brittle and cracking when handled? My replacement main was just over $500 and that was cheap.
Rust is another enemy. All fitting and bolts, turnbuckles and cables should be marine stainless or the appropriate material to prevent rust. Then there is the trailer. That can often make or break a deal. It isn't unusual for these older boats to not be in great shape, but the trailer is worth more than the asking price. They are expensive and hard to find used, so make sure that is in great shape too. You can save yourself a lot of expense, over the years, having a good trailer. Marina charges, storage, etc., life is easier with a good trailer.
Take her out for a sail with the owner and watch how he handles the boat as well as how the boat handles.
The age of your prospective boat can indicate problems, but it is not a problem in itself. There are still 100+ year old boats sailing out there, they have the advantage of being well loved and cared for by their owners.
I hope this is one of those boats for you. Good luck.
- Will (Dragonfly)
Some have mentioned that all things can be fixed. Yes, they can but here's the thing... do you want to be a boat fixer or a sailor? Something to consider.
And some things don't need to be fixed. Spend your money and time to give you the most satisfaction.
Great points, I looked at several boats and just knew on the ones I walked away from they were too much boat fixing for what I wanted so I kept looking. I was a weekend away from driving to Tampa for a fairly new Precision 23 with a loving owner and trailer when I found my 1976 25. It was clean, well maintained and sailed regularly for it's 40+ years. It was ready to go and I took care of things that needed addressing first. Is it perfect, nope, but is good enough for our lake. I'd love a perfect pristine boat but since we are lake sailors for now there is really no reason for anything better for us right now.
Last edited: