B-31 Shaft Removal
- Thread starter Alfa
- Start date
I didn't completely pull the shaft to change the Volvo seal. Pulling the coupling from the shaft was the mean job: the coupling is bolted to the shaft from the center. No space to work. Dropping the rudder is always a difficult job; I had the long rudder and short keel, now corrected to shorter rudder. Rocks helped the decision!
Thanks Caboteur.
I'm intending to remove the shaft because it has surface pitting corrosion. I speculate that this is result of the previous owner neglect to maintain prop anodes.
My options are: 1. Install spacer between trans/shaft couplings (or install flex R&D coupling) and reduce length of existing shaft and this way remachine a new prop taper/thread. But I'm assuming that original shaft is 304 SST, more suspectible to corrosion. 2. Make new shaft of more corrosion resistant SST.
Beneteau USA said that rudder (B-31) must be dropped in order to remove the shaft. I expect that after removing cutlass bearing and Volvo shaft seal the shaft should clear the rudder. My attempt to test this method will take place next year.
I'm intending to remove the shaft because it has surface pitting corrosion. I speculate that this is result of the previous owner neglect to maintain prop anodes.
My options are: 1. Install spacer between trans/shaft couplings (or install flex R&D coupling) and reduce length of existing shaft and this way remachine a new prop taper/thread. But I'm assuming that original shaft is 304 SST, more suspectible to corrosion. 2. Make new shaft of more corrosion resistant SST.
Beneteau USA said that rudder (B-31) must be dropped in order to remove the shaft. I expect that after removing cutlass bearing and Volvo shaft seal the shaft should clear the rudder. My attempt to test this method will take place next year.
Because of the length of the tube (there is no outside shaft support) I doubt that the angle gain from the removal of the Volvo seal and cutlass bearing will give you the desired angle to clear the rudder. When I changed the Volvo seal I noticed very slight pitting which I sanded a little and greased heavily. That was nearly a thousand engine-hours ago and no leaks or vibration since. I have 2,500 hours and changed the seal after 1,500 because of instructions: the seal was in perfect shape!
Pierre
Pierre
I can't speak for the B31, but I pulled the shaft on my O'Day 322 last year. Getting the coupling off the shaft was a bit of an ordeal...but if you are trying to salvage the shaft, you will need to get the coupling off. And of course, if you are installing a new shaft, you will need to see if you can get it past the rudder.
I removed the coupling, removed the stuffing box and hose, and then pressed out the cutlass bearing. With that done, I had enough lateral play to get the shaft past the rudder. Otherwise, it was lined up with the rudder.
Getting the new shaft in was harder...got the shaft started in the strut (without the cutlass bearing) and the shaft was pressed up against the rudder. Then I had to work to get the shaft into the shaft log. That took a lot of force (and wanted to be careful to not bend the strut or the new shaft. In the end, I got it,but it was not easy.
On the Beneteau, I think your shaft is enclosed in a bit of a skeg farther back than my O'Day. And I think that will make the job a lot harder.
Here is a video of the shaft removal and installation...
Good luck,
Greg
I removed the coupling, removed the stuffing box and hose, and then pressed out the cutlass bearing. With that done, I had enough lateral play to get the shaft past the rudder. Otherwise, it was lined up with the rudder.
Getting the new shaft in was harder...got the shaft started in the strut (without the cutlass bearing) and the shaft was pressed up against the rudder. Then I had to work to get the shaft into the shaft log. That took a lot of force (and wanted to be careful to not bend the strut or the new shaft. In the end, I got it,but it was not easy.
On the Beneteau, I think your shaft is enclosed in a bit of a skeg farther back than my O'Day. And I think that will make the job a lot harder.
Here is a video of the shaft removal and installation...
Good luck,
Greg
Pierre, my Beneteau has less eng hours (and probably sailing hrs; with fixed prop I sail with trans in neutral) and don't know what to expect under Volvo seal, but also not a drop of water is coming out. I like simplicity of this design.
What interest me how many times did you replaced cutlass bearing on your boat, and if you replaced, did you measure shaft play (up-down) with old bearing? Did you noticed any shaft corrosion pitting close to prop or in cutlass bearing area when shaft was partially out during Volvo seal replacement?
I replaced cutlass bearing in the first season after buying 3 year old B-31 because I could fill slight vibrations in the cockpit floor when sailing downwind and sliding down on waves at 7-8 knots. I confirmed the source of vibrations/noise in the aft cabin after lifting the floor. At that time shaft play was slightly more than 1/16". After replacing cutlass bearing, I checked and corrected small engine misalignment.
What interest me how many times did you replaced cutlass bearing on your boat, and if you replaced, did you measure shaft play (up-down) with old bearing? Did you noticed any shaft corrosion pitting close to prop or in cutlass bearing area when shaft was partially out during Volvo seal replacement?
I replaced cutlass bearing in the first season after buying 3 year old B-31 because I could fill slight vibrations in the cockpit floor when sailing downwind and sliding down on waves at 7-8 knots. I confirmed the source of vibrations/noise in the aft cabin after lifting the floor. At that time shaft play was slightly more than 1/16". After replacing cutlass bearing, I checked and corrected small engine misalignment.
Though I have 2,500 hours and 15,000 nm on the boat I have yet to change the cutlass bearing. I just had the first survey done last week and the surveyor estimated that there was no play in the shaft. I don't have any vibration to speak of. As earlier mentionned there was a little pitting on the shaft but nothing to worry about. I change the zincs often when in salt, not at all in soft water. When in salt for a long period I also hang a large sinc "kidney" from the port backstay (the starboard one is isolated for use as SSB/HAM antenna). The original bronze prop was also showing some discoloration but after a thorough cleaning and deoxydation seems OK. Boat is now on the hard for the winter.
Pierre,
Most likely you are aware of this, but shrouds (and back stays via mast) are connected to cast iron keel only, not to the engine grounding/shaft/prop. At list in my B31. However keeping the boat in St Lawrence River most of the time does not present significant corrosion problems. Thanks again for informations.
Most likely you are aware of this, but shrouds (and back stays via mast) are connected to cast iron keel only, not to the engine grounding/shaft/prop. At list in my B31. However keeping the boat in St Lawrence River most of the time does not present significant corrosion problems. Thanks again for informations.