On my 1978 Hunter 27 I have had to replace the auxiliary battery that runs the GPS, depth finder, lights etc. the last two years. What causes should I look for?
Thanks You
BF
Thanks You
BF
Auxiliary Battery
- Thread starter Bigfish
- Start date
What are you using to charge the battery(ies)? What type of battery are you replacing each year? (AMG, Deep Cycle or a Autozone special?)
Deep cycle marine battery from Hamilton's Marine: Cold Cranking Amps: 700; Marine Cranking Amps: 875; Amp Hours: 105; Reserve Minutes: 170 Pro-Rated Warranty: 2 Years.
Charger: 12V 10 amp deep cycle charger
Charger: 12V 10 amp deep cycle charger
From your post it sounds like you bought a new battery 2 years ago and it became useless recently. If that is the case I would suspect the charger. I solved a similar problem on my boat by replacing the charger with a new programmable model that you can tailor to the battery. I purchased and recommend this one below. If your charger is indeed eating your battery then the cost of the new charger is less painful. Best of luck.
https://shop.marinehowto.com/products/sterling-pro-charger-ultra-battery-charger
https://shop.marinehowto.com/products/sterling-pro-charger-ultra-battery-charger
On the Sterling Pro Charger. Think of it as one more battery that keeps all the other batteries in working condition for a longer period.
That is what I thought. The issue is in the way we use the batteries and they way that the charging system charges the batteries.
There is real good info on the MaineSail website. Or you can read the similar info here on the SBO forum. Search for Batteries or Chargers. You will have lots of info most of it with MaineSail sharing Professional Marine electrical insights.
This can be fixed.
There is real good info on the MaineSail website. Or you can read the similar info here on the SBO forum. Search for Batteries or Chargers. You will have lots of info most of it with MaineSail sharing Professional Marine electrical insights.
This can be fixed.
It can also be the type of batteries you are buying. MaineSail's site goes into the difference between labels on batteries and actual battery design.
Can you share some of the ways you ave used the batteries? The batteries you have purchased may have a label of "Deep Cycle" but are built like car batteries with less lead thin plates. These will not have 700 charging cycles perhaps only 250-300 cycles.
Can you share some of the ways you ave used the batteries? The batteries you have purchased may have a label of "Deep Cycle" but are built like car batteries with less lead thin plates. These will not have 700 charging cycles perhaps only 250-300 cycles.
I have a battery switch and battery #1 is dedicated to starting the engine, battery #2 runs the GPS, lights depth finder and lights. Interestingly for various reason I have not been able to sail much the last two years so they have had little use.
Bummer about being stuck ashore. I live 250 miles from my boat and I can go about 45 days before I have to drop everything and take a mental readjustment period...
Ok In understand the switch arrangement. How are the batteries connected to the charger? Do you have an inboard engine? Does it charge one of the batteries?
Ok In understand the switch arrangement. How are the batteries connected to the charger? Do you have an inboard engine? Does it charge one of the batteries?
The boat has an inboard 21hp Yanmar diesel with an alternator.It seems to charge the batteries better if the battery switch is on both.
OK. Trace the charging wires from the Alternator. Do they go to the switch? (I suspect this based on what you stated).
If so then the charge from the alternator is distributed to thru the switch to the batteries. MaineSail does a great write up about this and the problems it can create.
There are some issues with this design. You can change this and improve your system.
Simply stated, a better design is to wire the alternator directly to one of the two batteries. Preferred choice would be the one you use to power the gear (GPS etc.) on your boat. Lets call this the "House" battery. Now you need to some how keep the "Starter" battery charged. You use a ACR (Automatic Charging Relay https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1366 ) to share some of the charge to the Starter battery. It is explained in the link. When you do this then there is no need to use the "Both" function on the switch. Again MaineSail has an in depth review of the 1/2/B switch. Or you can read the info shared by Stu Jackson on this forum. Just search for 1/2/Both and you'll find the detail. The recommendation is to stop using the switch to direct charging. Running your charging circut straight to the batteries. This also helps to assure that your batteries are getting all the charging voltage that is available from your systems. Anytime the charging circuit goes though several connections there is a bit of loss.
If so then the charge from the alternator is distributed to thru the switch to the batteries. MaineSail does a great write up about this and the problems it can create.
There are some issues with this design. You can change this and improve your system.
Simply stated, a better design is to wire the alternator directly to one of the two batteries. Preferred choice would be the one you use to power the gear (GPS etc.) on your boat. Lets call this the "House" battery. Now you need to some how keep the "Starter" battery charged. You use a ACR (Automatic Charging Relay https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1366 ) to share some of the charge to the Starter battery. It is explained in the link. When you do this then there is no need to use the "Both" function on the switch. Again MaineSail has an in depth review of the 1/2/B switch. Or you can read the info shared by Stu Jackson on this forum. Just search for 1/2/Both and you'll find the detail. The recommendation is to stop using the switch to direct charging. Running your charging circut straight to the batteries. This also helps to assure that your batteries are getting all the charging voltage that is available from your systems. Anytime the charging circuit goes though several connections there is a bit of loss.
A battery that is rated in cranking amps is not a deep cycle battery. (there are no true deep cycle batteries capable of marine use but that is a theme for another posting) A "starting" battery does not take kindly to multiple cycles of deep discharge. The most common advice is 1) charge the batteries to 100% immediately after every use 2) do not discharge more than 50% of capacity and 3) check and maintain fluid level and keep terminals clean. When purchasing batteries make sure that the "date of manufacture" is not older than 90 days; batteries self discharge and sulfate if they sit on the shelf for too long. Batteries are a surprise box; they can last for many years and refuse to die or they can fail a few days after purchase and that is why they have given rise to the "Warranty Products". You could buy the same battery at three different prices depending on the warranty package. Some type of batteries are better suited to service sophisticated electronics or special performance requirements but for an old coastal cruiser with OEM equipment a couple of wet cell batteries is all that is needed. Maintenance and a good warranty is all that could provide the service that has been paid for.
Make one big bank and I use my house bank for everything and have a start battery for starting.
If you only sail make one bank.
Nick
If you only sail make one bank.
Nick