Aqua Signal 25 combo - known flaw?

[Skipper]

When I had the mast out 2 years ago, I used the opportunity to get some work done, including installing a new combo steaming and foredeck light fixture.

Now, 2 years later, the foredeck light went out. Had to climb up there and check it. Found the bulb welded to the socket from corrosion(pic). The new bulb worked but had to set it just so. Looks unreliable. Couldn't clean the socket in my precarious position with bad angle - - was using a Mast Mate on the sail track from behind the light - different story.

The foredeck light has no lense. It's totally open to the elements. I had thought it odd but now suspicions are shown to be valid.

Am I supposed to climb up there and change the bulb every 2 years?
Maybe even the socket or fixture?
Any proven remedy to curb the corrosion in this case?
Do we hate this design and I didn't know it?

 

[Ron20324]

you didn't touch it with your skin, did you? The instructions say not to, lest the oils overheat and do damage. Other than to test the bulb ecery couple months, I don't use it- and it still stops working.

 

[Skipper]

you didn't touch it with your skin, did you? The instructions say not to, lest the oils overheat and do damage. Other than to test the bulb ecery couple months, I don't use it- and it still stops working.

No, the bulb was in there when I installed the fixture. Anyway it didn't burn out. It corroded.
But you reminded me that the bulb gets unbelievably hot - I tested the new one prior to install. I'm guessing this is why it's out in the open air with no lense. 20w halogen.

 

[Gunni]

There is a much better design that requires a lot less battery power - sealed LED navigation lights. These units replace the entire fixture and meet USCG requirements. I replaced my steaming/decklight with a great unit from MarineBeam a few years ago and I get more light for less energy

 

[Alan Gomes]

When I had the mast out 2 years ago, I used the opportunity to get some work done, including installing a new combo steaming and foredeck light fixture.

Now, 2 years later, the foredeck light went out. Had to climb up there and check it. Found the bulb welded to the socket from corrosion(pic). The new bulb worked but had to set it just so. Looks unreliable. Couldn't clean the socket in my precarious position with bad angle - - was using a Mast Mate on the sail track from behind the light - different story.

The foredeck light has no lense. It's totally open to the elements. I had thought it odd but now suspicions are shown to be valid.

Am I supposed to climb up there and change the bulb every 2 years?
Maybe even the socket or fixture?
Any proven remedy to curb the corrosion in this case?
Do we hate this design and I didn't know it?

I have the same fixture and have the same problem with it.

 

[kappykaplan]

I installed a pair of LED spreader lights several years ago when I had to replace my steaming light. They really light the deck well.

 

[jssailem]

I thought the open design was to reduce the problem. When covered water/moisture accumulated in the case destroying the light. So the open system prevents that.
I applied Corrosion Block to the metal parts. Stuck in an LED a year ago, and am hoping for the best. I'll report my discovery after a spring inspection.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Replace the halogen with an LED bulb

I thought the open design was to reduce the problem. When covered water/moisture accumulated in the case destroying the light. So the open system prevents that.
I applied Corrosion Block to the metal parts. Stuck in an LED a year ago, and am hoping for the best. I'll report my discovery after a spring inspection.

I popped in LEDs in mine as well. Had to trim the deck light cap to accept the different flange on the bulb. After reading this, maybe I should spread some Noalox on it before the mast goes back up.

 

[jssailem]

maybe I should spread some Noalox on it before the mast goes back up

I would. Anything to protect the metal parts.

The stuff I use (Corrosion Block) was looked at by a couple of Boeing engineers when having rigging done on their boat. Told my rigger they liked the way the metallurgy tests turned out and said to use it on their boats. I tried it on a stubborn galvanized spring latch on a shed. After 13 months it has been amazing, no corrosion, latch works like new just off the sales floor of HD. So I'm testing it on the boat. First test was on a low cost "Master" lock. Last May sprayed the corroded and sticking lock, wiped off the salt corrosion, worked the spray into the key opening and locking mechanism to remove the corrosion from 4 months of use in the marina. Lock functions flawlessly. Key slips in and out. Lock opens without issue.

Figures the light would be a good second test. Appears to be neutral to electrical connections.

 

[Skipper]

I would. Anything to protect the metal parts.

The stuff I use (Corrosion Block) was looked at by a couple of Boeing engineers when having rigging done on their boat. Told my rigger they liked the way the metallurgy tests turned out and said to use it on their boats. I tried it on a stubborn galvanized spring latch on a shed. After 13 months it has been amazing, no corrosion, latch works like new just off the sales floor of HD. So I'm testing it on the boat. First test was on a low cost "Master" lock. Last May sprayed the corroded and sticking lock, wiped off the salt corrosion, worked the spray into the key opening and locking mechanism to remove the corrosion from 4 months of use in the marina. Lock functions flawlessly. Key slips in and out. Lock opens without issue.

Figures the light would be a good second test. Appears to be neutral to electrical connections.

I'll have to try this next time I have to go up the mast. Thank you.

I'd use an LED bulb too but as often as I need the foredeck light, amps don't matter. And an LED base would still corrode in this fixture. I'd have to change out the whole fixture for true LED reliability in this case, as others mentioned. Which I might end up having to do.
And the steaming light, as you can guess, is only used with the motor/alt on so no amps issue there.
All my other nav lights are LED.

 

[Skipper]

There is a much better design that requires a lot less battery power - sealed LED navigation lights. These units replace the entire fixture and meet USCG requirements. I replaced my steaming/decklight with a great unit from MarineBeam a few years ago and I get more light for less energy

Thanks. This is a great tip. I should have got this to begin with, had I known. Maybe another can use my grief to buy the right equipment:
https://store.marinebeam.com/economy-series-25-led-deck-and-masthead-navigation-light-mast-mounted/

 

[justsomeguy]

Maybe another can use my grief to buy the right equipment:

That's the raison d'etre for these forums.

 

[EV21]

Query for jssaiem: I did a search for Corrosion Block and got several hits. Some for sprays, some for tubes / tubs of heavy looking greases. Different manufacturers (maybe rebranded) Which stuff were you referring to in your post? Where do you get it? Would like to get some for my boat-fun supply kit.

 

[Gunni]

Skipper; that is essentially the same lamp fixture you already have with LED bulbs, spend a little more and get a sealed LED fixture:
https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/
Now that LED nav lights meet USCG requirements they offer perhaps their greatest feature - they last a lifetime, and can be sealed up, no moisture, no fogging, no corrosion - reliable nav lighting.

 

[Skipper]

Skipper; that is essentially the same lamp fixture you already have with LED bulbs, spend a little more and get a sealed LED fixture:
https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/
Now that LED nav lights meet USCG requirements they offer perhaps their greatest feature - they last a lifetime, and can be sealed up, no moisture, no fogging, no corrosion - reliable nav lighting.

Fantastic. Thanks for the correction.

 

[JRacer]

Lovely. I have the same fixture. Been up for about 4 years. No problem so far. Knocking on fiberglass!

 

[jssailem]

EV21
I used the 12oz spray.
http://learchem.com/userfiles/CB-12oz--20012(1).gif
I have also used the small tube of grease on gears of my winches to test the product. I'll report back my experience.

 

[Skipper]

Side note: I could find nothing on the Internet for Aqua Signal support in the U.S. So I sent an email Wednesday to their German HQ at sales.aquasignal@glamox.com.
So far, I've been ignored.

 

[Jacktar]

Well trump did kind of piss them off, so just wait it out.

 

[EV21]

Thanks jssailem.