Anyone Tried These Motor Mounts

Stu Jackson · May 1, 2012

Ray, the next step in your search is to determine YOUR engine weight and distribution and see if those mounts can support it. I haven't heard of them. Not only were the Vetus 50s discussed in the C36 forum, but also on our C34 Message Board.

Here's a complaint you should be aware of

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1344.0.html

Look at the dates: 2003 to 2012. Also read the links in the posts.

If you're not planning to completely lift your engine, then you MUST check the hole spacing for the mount's feet and your stringers.

Witzend · May 2, 2012

Lateral adjustment scope on the base of the mount needs to be considered as well for alignment.

Maine Sail · May 2, 2012

I would strongly advise sticking with the factory mount that the M25XPB came with. I my experience & opinion they are a far superior mount to the BI product.

I have to replace more BI mounts than any other single mount... They also transmit a lot more vibration to the boat and are very difficult to dial in to a "comfortable" vibration tolerance level even with an alignment that is dialed into .001".... The factory mounts last longer, are better designed and isolate engine vibrations better. If there is one thing I have learned over the years it is that the current mounts Westebeke/Universal ship with are EXCELLENT quality that do a better job than most aftermarket mounts at effectively isolating engine vibrations to the hull.

Sometimes when a boat already has them, this used to be Universal's factory supplied mount, I will replace them with like if the hole pattern is going to be an issue, but I never "like" doing it..

When I replaced the mounts on my own motor I ponied up for the Westerbeke mounts without question.

Also the hole pattern on BI mounts often does not line up with the factory Westerbeke mount...

A very common failure mode on BI mounts which makes alignment impossible..

And another one:

The factory Westerbeke mount was retired at 2172 hours of use even though they were still technically working. Other than a little sag there were no signs of failure in the rubber or the mount. You can't "spin" the stud on the Westerbeke mount because it is welded to the cover.

The two BI mounts were the second set this boat had installed in less than 800 hours use. One was snapped clean off and the other was spinning in the rubber. All of the mounts on this motor were spinning in the rubber except for the snapped one because I never tried it...

Stu Jackson · May 2, 2012

Ray, our M25 has what MS shows as the BI mounts, not the Westerbeke ones with the enclosure as pictured. As far as I know the PO didn't change them out. What do you have on your M25XP engine? The other M25s & M25XPs I've seen also have the BI mounts.

rbmcintire · May 2, 2012

The reason I stayed with the existing type "BI" DF-2205-2 motor mounts on our replacement ('84 C-30/ M-25) was for alignment. I could dial them in, one-for-one, with very little tweaking for the couplings. My concept was they were a great improvement over the old ones, even if they weren't the best design. I'd also vote for sticking with what's already there and use the Westerbekes.

Rob

Witzend · May 2, 2012

Again, the BI mounts offer much less in the way of lateral scope. My stern tube is sufficiently out of alignment I need the wider slot in the base.

Witzend · May 2, 2012

RP, when you mounted your damper, did you rotate the new assembly on the tranny input shaft to make sure there was no run-out before you bolted it back on the flywheel? If it is off, even by a smidgen it will cause vibration, and tear up the assembly again.

jlewitt · May 3, 2012

Motor Mounts

rpwillia said:
Thinking I am going to replace my motor mounts. One of the guys in my marina recommended I used the Bushings DF-2205-2. He has an 18HP Universal in his Pearson 30. Says they have been fine. On the Torrenson Marine site they have the Universal 300514 which has been replaced by the Westerbeke 32013 and they list the Bushings DF-2205-2 as an after market. I want to be a little cautious as my sample size saying they are OK is 1 and Mains Sail says he only uses OEM for motor mounts. I also note that Stu linked to the Catalina 36 site that some people had been happy with the Vetus 50 motor mounts, but not everyone was happy. I am inclined to go with the DF-2205-2 as this guy is reliable, but he does have a slightly smaller engine.

I too had issues with origional motor mounts, When I went to replace with new my yard determined that the issue causing excessive viberation was not the mount themselves but the fact that the post was overly extended to line up with the prop shaft, their solution was to fabricate riser blocks approx 2 inches high which allowed us to clamp down the motor mount post which reduced noise and viberation . this solution has been very sucessful.
You might comsider same when replacing your mounts

Witzend · May 3, 2012

jlewitt said:
I too had issues with origional motor mounts, When I went to replace with new my yard determined that the issue causing excessive viberation was not the mount themselves but the fact that the post was overly extended to line up with the prop shaft, their solution was to fabricate riser blocks approx 2 inches high which allowed us to clamp down the motor mount post which reduced noise and viberation . this solution has been very sucessful.
You might comsider same when replacing your mounts

Did the same, when I replaced my mounts, blocked them up so I could keep the adjustment near the bottom.

Witzend · May 4, 2012

rpwillia said:
Witz, When I replaced the damper plate it was spot on as far as fit and alignment. For me there was no possible way to screw it up.

I guess I'm confused on what you actually did?

paulj · May 4, 2012

Well this is what my motor mounts look liked 3 years ago.

Not sure where blocks and wire would go etc.

paulj :troll:

Witzend · May 4, 2012

Paul, The blocks sandwitch between the fiberglass rail and the bottom of the mount raising the entire mount bringing down the adjustment nut. This has the effect of reducing the torque on the mount, and also stiffens up the lateral movement.
Wire?

Witzend · May 5, 2012

rpwillia said:
Witzend said:

Witz, I disconnected and removed the transmission; reached inside and unbolted the old damper plate; put slid the new damper plate in and the holes all lined up so I bolted in back in place. One hitch was at that point since the opening on the new damper plate was not all worn out I had to loosen the bolts on the top of the motor mounts, winch the engine up and then slide the transmission shaft into the now mounted damper plate and reconnect every thing. One picture is the opening and it is large enough to slide the damper plate through, and the other is the old damper plate.

So you used another R&D damper plate?
My fly wheel did not have holes in it to mount the correct Sachs plate, maybe yours did? This is why I had to salvage the backing plat from my failed R&D and mount the new Sachs to it.

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Anyone Tried These Motor Mounts

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