... without getting into the discussion of the pros and cons of swivels, wondering, for those of you who do use a swivel, do you attach the Swivel directly to the anchor, or do you use a shackle between the anchor and the swivel ? I have a KONG Swivel, and I had a Bow Shackle between the anchor and the KONG, but sometimes the anchor twists a bit when coming up and that assembly binds up, so I either have to lean over the bow roller and break it free or let the anchor back down and windlass it up again. So, I'm thinking I'm going to try and attach the Kong directly to the Anchor ... like this ... Thanks, cheers, John
Anchor Swivels and Shackles ...
- Thread starter damonwells
- Start date
We have a claw anchor connected directly with a normal shackle. On a couple of occasions it has sort of "flipped" and caused the wrong angle so the anchor won't set. The inelegant but effective solution is to wrap the shackle /chain/anchor area with duct tape that prevents that from happening. The photo you show should prevent the problem we have.
One comment with the claw. It has generally worked ok except one occasion in British Columbia where we set then it bounced loose. Letting out more scope didn't help. When we pulled it up it had a nice round soccer ball-sized rock nicely nested in the claw. If I were to replace it I would go Rocna or Manson.
One comment with the claw. It has generally worked ok except one occasion in British Columbia where we set then it bounced loose. Letting out more scope didn't help. When we pulled it up it had a nice round soccer ball-sized rock nicely nested in the claw. If I were to replace it I would go Rocna or Manson.
Somewhere in my basement is a Kong swivel that has cracked its "forks" that hold the pin, where the pin goes through. The forks are both bent outward due to side loading.
I recommend you attach with a bow shackle that allows it to pivot to avoid side stress on the swivel. It's not designed for maximum side loads. Or eliminate the swivel, I have.
I recommend you attach with a bow shackle that allows it to pivot to avoid side stress on the swivel. It's not designed for maximum side loads. Or eliminate the swivel, I have.
The shank will have maximum mechanical advantage to bend the swivel forks apart when side loaded. Just like a pry bar.
Hi John, what you are describing was to be one of my winter tasks. My problem is exactly as you described, the regular shackle can get caught in my bow roller. I did have an oversize SS shackle though.
The problems I have are 1, there is no place around here to buy a swivel so it has to be done on line. 2, no place, catalog or website, had the inside dimension of the swivel so I had no idea which one to buy to fit over the thick shank of our claw anchor. 3, our claw anchor has a slot, not a hole, so what I understood is that the swivel can ride up over the top of the anchor and like Larry said, the anchor becomes a big lever arm plus does not set well when that happens.
My answer to this was to go to a smaller shackle instead of the swivel. Even though I always use the rule of thumb of going at least one size larger on the shackle then the chain I felt the smaller shackle would be no more of a compromise than the chance of cracking a swivel.
The problems I have are 1, there is no place around here to buy a swivel so it has to be done on line. 2, no place, catalog or website, had the inside dimension of the swivel so I had no idea which one to buy to fit over the thick shank of our claw anchor. 3, our claw anchor has a slot, not a hole, so what I understood is that the swivel can ride up over the top of the anchor and like Larry said, the anchor becomes a big lever arm plus does not set well when that happens.
My answer to this was to go to a smaller shackle instead of the swivel. Even though I always use the rule of thumb of going at least one size larger on the shackle then the chain I felt the smaller shackle would be no more of a compromise than the chance of cracking a swivel.
Prone to stress cracks and sudden failure. Photo is not mine, but I had a similar failure on the D shackle that holds my genoa clew, a few years back.
I have a Kong swivel attached directly to the Rocna. I use it because a bow shackle is a PITA to get over the bow (!) roller. The swivel makes a nice transition from the chain to the shank.
Hi John,
I seem to recall a discussion a few years back about this, but couldn't find it after a quick search. As others have pointed out, anytime the anchor and chain aren't aligned perfectly on the sea bottom, any side load will try to bend the forks of the Kong in a way it wasn't designed for. I believe some folks have used a short piece of chain between the anchor and the swivel rather than attaching the Kong directly to a shackle. Not sure if that solves your twisting problem, probably not.
I know you didn't want to go there, but I did away with my swivel to keep things simple. Sometimes any forward way of the boat tends to turn the anchor backwards as the anchor is just breaking the surface. If so I get the anchor clear of the water, then lift and twist the chain a couple times to get the anchor turned properly. A nuisance for sure, but it works. (You could possibly drag the anchor on the surface and motor backwards briefly to get it turned properly, but that can be problematic too in a lot of situations)
Good luck with it.
Max
I seem to recall a discussion a few years back about this, but couldn't find it after a quick search. As others have pointed out, anytime the anchor and chain aren't aligned perfectly on the sea bottom, any side load will try to bend the forks of the Kong in a way it wasn't designed for. I believe some folks have used a short piece of chain between the anchor and the swivel rather than attaching the Kong directly to a shackle. Not sure if that solves your twisting problem, probably not.
I know you didn't want to go there, but I did away with my swivel to keep things simple. Sometimes any forward way of the boat tends to turn the anchor backwards as the anchor is just breaking the surface. If so I get the anchor clear of the water, then lift and twist the chain a couple times to get the anchor turned properly. A nuisance for sure, but it works. (You could possibly drag the anchor on the surface and motor backwards briefly to get it turned properly, but that can be problematic too in a lot of situations)
Good luck with it.
Max
it turned out that I had a galvanized anchor shackle of the correct size in my tool box on the boat. I have at least a 1/2 dozen stainless ones that are the wrong size, I had no idea SS was a poor choice.
They are shiny though?
They are shiny though?
For example Crosby G209A available at Defender and Hamilton, amongst others.
A 7/16 shackle has a 2.6 Ton WLL and fits 5/16 chain
Here is a chart with sizing and load limits which are stamped on the shackle:
http://www.defender.com/pdf/002082.pdf
A 7/16 shackle has a 2.6 Ton WLL and fits 5/16 chain
Here is a chart with sizing and load limits which are stamped on the shackle:
http://www.defender.com/pdf/002082.pdf
We top out at 8,000 pounds with full tanks and beer in the fridge! 24' of 1/4" chain and 150 feet of 3-strand in the bow locker is enough for anything we'll ever run into around here.
765nfeet of 1/4 high test, and 150 feet of nylon. And on several occasions have had ALL the chain, plus 15, ,20 feet of nylon out.
I have 25 feet of chain on BOTH my secondary rodes
I have 25 feet of chain on BOTH my secondary rodes
... I think I'm going to eliminate the Kong Swivel. And if I were to keep it, like Max suggested, I would put a short +/- 2 foot piece of chain between the anchor and the Swivel. Too may scary pictures & comments. And what Larry said seems to make sense to me. Thanks again, Cheers, John