My Hunter 42 Passage side windows are crazed and leaking. I would like to replace them however Hunters cost for the 4 pieces is in the $2k range. I believe these are simply Plexiglas and could be cut by a local glass shop. I am not interested in replacing the opening port holes, I believe it will look better without them and prevent some areas of leaks. However I wanted to check with you experts before I start taking the old units out. I have read through a few threads and it looks like DOW 795 is the correct sealant. Has anyone replaced these on a 42 Hunter Passage? Are they Plexi and are they flat, not curved? Thank you for your assistance.
42 Hunter Passage side windows
- Thread starter BellaSogno9119
- Start date
A couple out of Vancouver, BC replaced theirs and they turned out very nice. He visits this site often and maybe he will chime in. He did the project himself and chose to not replace the center port light. I have their name on the boat and will try to remember to bring it back on my next trip.
Just checked the owner directory and no luck there. Found their name; Vlad and Elena Krasnov, S/V Eurus in my 2015 Princess Royal Island cruise report.
Just checked the owner directory and no luck there. Found their name; Vlad and Elena Krasnov, S/V Eurus in my 2015 Princess Royal Island cruise report.
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Hi Bella Sogno,
I just removed and rebedded my 1991 P42 side windows a couple months ago. I have always used Dow Corning 795, but I don't see why Sikaflex wouldn't be just as good. I think you could go either way successfully.
The side windows are just plexiglas, and they are flat. They are mostly straight-edge ninety-degree cuts around the perimeter; however, there are a couple of corners that will need to be shaved with a router. I would second Stuart's suggestion that you take them to a glass shop and have them duplicated.
I didn't have the time to do that, so I just rebedded my old crazed windows. My boat is 26 years old, and the original Dow 795 had leaked for some time. You can generally buy yourself a couple of seasons by cutting out the old sealant around the edges and squirting in new sealant into those spaces. But the real answer is to rebed (with or without replacing the windows). I wish I had the time to have new windows cut, but that is just the way it goes.
I'm not the fastest guy in the world, and I like to work with a beer in one hand, so my time estimates tend to go long. It pretty much took me most of a day to remove each side window, clean it up, tape it off (inside and out), and rebed. Had I had the time, I think I would have made an appointment with a window shop to bring in all windows at once and have them cut new ones on the spot. It'd only take them a couple hours or so for a pair. (I also had a new forward hatch lens made, and it was only 1/2 hour of labor, with the new 3/8" x 2' x 2' lens costing about $130 total).
Cheers,
Paul
I just removed and rebedded my 1991 P42 side windows a couple months ago. I have always used Dow Corning 795, but I don't see why Sikaflex wouldn't be just as good. I think you could go either way successfully.
The side windows are just plexiglas, and they are flat. They are mostly straight-edge ninety-degree cuts around the perimeter; however, there are a couple of corners that will need to be shaved with a router. I would second Stuart's suggestion that you take them to a glass shop and have them duplicated.
I didn't have the time to do that, so I just rebedded my old crazed windows. My boat is 26 years old, and the original Dow 795 had leaked for some time. You can generally buy yourself a couple of seasons by cutting out the old sealant around the edges and squirting in new sealant into those spaces. But the real answer is to rebed (with or without replacing the windows). I wish I had the time to have new windows cut, but that is just the way it goes.
I'm not the fastest guy in the world, and I like to work with a beer in one hand, so my time estimates tend to go long. It pretty much took me most of a day to remove each side window, clean it up, tape it off (inside and out), and rebed. Had I had the time, I think I would have made an appointment with a window shop to bring in all windows at once and have them cut new ones on the spot. It'd only take them a couple hours or so for a pair. (I also had a new forward hatch lens made, and it was only 1/2 hour of labor, with the new 3/8" x 2' x 2' lens costing about $130 total).
Cheers,
Paul
Thanks Paul. Ours do not leak, but have become crazed over the years. Will replace some day and likely will remove the center port lights. Vlad did a nice job on his.
Gentleman, Thank you for all the input. On another thread a number of folks stated you do not need to reinstall the screws to hold the windows, in fact a few insisted it is better not to use screws, the DOW 795 will hold the window and the screws will eventually be leak spots. Any experience or thoughts?
That 795 held the windows (or remains of them) on an 11 story building in a 6.7 magnitude quake that blew apart many steel cross beams. Seriously though, the screws are for placement and are (should be) temporary.
Use lextan not Plexiglas, the screws are used to hold the "glass" in place while the 795 cures, they should be removed after curing.
OF INTEREST: read Maine Sail's post concerning Acrylic (plexi) and Polycarbonate (Lexan)
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...lacement-material-debate.175457/#post-1248768
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...lacement-material-debate.175457/#post-1248768
Just wondering if anyone know what exact acrylic/plexi color number and thickness used on windows and hatches of HP42.