1995 Catalina 30 MkIII
- Thread starter VF84Sluggo
- Start date
Good luck. When we bought our C34 in 1998, it was 12 years old and looked like it came right out of the factory!!! Great, meticulous PO. We'd looked for an entire year at JUST C34s. We also looked at new, but couldn't justify twice the price.
Hope all goes well, there's nothing you can fix that hasn't been discussed on either the C30 Association website, their Yahoo group or on our C34 website (since we share similar/identical systems.
Never a reason to reinvent the wheel.
What engine does this boat have?
Hope all goes well, there's nothing you can fix that hasn't been discussed on either the C30 Association website, their Yahoo group or on our C34 website (since we share similar/identical systems.
Never a reason to reinvent the wheel.
What engine does this boat have?
That's great!
This might help, for starters:
Engines 101 - The BIGGEST & BEST collection of M25 Series Universal Engine Information on the Internet, plus some M35, too
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine
Don't get too concerned about darkness in the oil. It's kind of the nature of diesels. You can change the oil and with a few minutes running it will look dark. Surveyor can guide you and there are some diagnostics that can be done to evaluate engine but dark oil is pretty normal.
When I was looking I found a C30 that was on the hard. There was many inches of rainwater sitting in the bridge and the hull looked like it was shot with a BB gun. I determined it would cost me 8-10k for hauling and a bottom job to get it nice so I offered accordingly on the high asking price and they just said no. No counter offers or anything. Go figure.
I very happy with the boat I have now and it was located on the next dock! Hope all goes well with the survey. It's a great boat
Sluggo,
It's Oberdorfer. It's the far superior pump. If you have a Sherwood, it's a straight swapout on that engine.
Diesel oil becomes black immediately. It is NOT like your car's oil.
There is only one zinc, and it's NOT on the engine, it's in the heat exchanger (HX).
Here's what I suggest: read, read some more, then read again BEFORE you touch anything!!!
I spent six months noodling around before I touched anything. And this was in the pre-internet days (1998). I got familiar with the parts from this picture.
It's Oberdorfer. It's the far superior pump. If you have a Sherwood, it's a straight swapout on that engine.
Diesel oil becomes black immediately. It is NOT like your car's oil.
There is only one zinc, and it's NOT on the engine, it's in the heat exchanger (HX).
Here's what I suggest: read, read some more, then read again BEFORE you touch anything!!!
I spent six months noodling around before I touched anything. And this was in the pre-internet days (1998). I got familiar with the parts from this picture.
Attachments
morty, that is true, however, I rarely think of the prop shaft as part of the "engine" although it is connected. Many of us also have zincs on our struts, too.
stu, engine or not i think the more our friend is told about his boat the better. i was at the new york boat show and it was almost empty with almost zero of interest for a sailor, but i was there trying to find new club members. seems young people have no interest in anything but computers.
is he willing to give you half the fee for the survey if not don't do it or is he willing to make some other considerations in writing
especially if his name is Ed.....
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You are under no obligation to give survey report to anyone. You paid for it it is yours.
What price is the boat. You can replace the standing and running rigging for 5 to 8 k depending how much work you do yourself. Engine problems didn't sound two bad. Clamps, hoses and water pump less than 1 k. How are the sails and cushions?
What price is the boat. You can replace the standing and running rigging for 5 to 8 k depending how much work you do yourself. Engine problems didn't sound two bad. Clamps, hoses and water pump less than 1 k. How are the sails and cushions?
What price is the boat. You can replace the standing and running rigging for 5 to 8 k depending how much work you do yourself. Engine problems didn't sound two bad. Clamps, hoses and water pump less than 1 k. How are the sails and cushions?[/QUOTE]
Your estimate for running rigging and standing rigging are way too high. I replaced all my standing rigging for less than 1k and running rigging for less than 1k also.
Your estimate for running rigging and standing rigging are way too high. I replaced all my standing rigging for less than 1k and running rigging for less than 1k also.
Hey,
What did the surveyor recommend you do? Usually the survey contains a list of items that must be changed for legal reasons, must be changed for safety reasons, and should be changed for other various reasons. Those changes usually include an estimated cost as well.
If you are unhappy with the survey results, the typical protocol is for you to contact the broker and let him know you are unhappy with the results. You now have a number of options:
Accept the boat as is, pay the balance and repair it at your expense and on your schedule
Reject the boat, get your deposit back, and walk away
Require the seller to make satisfactory repairs, then accept the boat
Renegotiate the price of the boat based on the survey results
Personally, I would show (not give) the broker the survey and go over the items that the surveyor discovered, along with the estimated cost of correcting the deficiencies. The broker will make some comments. Ultimately he will have to report those findings to the owner, who will them decide on what to do.
Based on your description, the boat doesn't seem bad at all. Running rigging is no big deal. You can change both halyards, main sheet, headsail sheet, furling line, etc for well under $1K and probably closer to $500 if you use basic stuff like StaSet. The engine room stuff also doesn't seem very serious. A new raw water pump is under $200 and can be changed in about 30 minutes (in most cases).
Anyway, no boat is EVER perfect (unless it's MainSails (joke!)) and there will always be a list of things to do. The surveyors job is to find things, but that doesn't mean the boat isn't a good condition or that you should not purchase it.
Good luck,
Barry
What did the surveyor recommend you do? Usually the survey contains a list of items that must be changed for legal reasons, must be changed for safety reasons, and should be changed for other various reasons. Those changes usually include an estimated cost as well.
If you are unhappy with the survey results, the typical protocol is for you to contact the broker and let him know you are unhappy with the results. You now have a number of options:
Accept the boat as is, pay the balance and repair it at your expense and on your schedule
Reject the boat, get your deposit back, and walk away
Require the seller to make satisfactory repairs, then accept the boat
Renegotiate the price of the boat based on the survey results
Personally, I would show (not give) the broker the survey and go over the items that the surveyor discovered, along with the estimated cost of correcting the deficiencies. The broker will make some comments. Ultimately he will have to report those findings to the owner, who will them decide on what to do.
Based on your description, the boat doesn't seem bad at all. Running rigging is no big deal. You can change both halyards, main sheet, headsail sheet, furling line, etc for well under $1K and probably closer to $500 if you use basic stuff like StaSet. The engine room stuff also doesn't seem very serious. A new raw water pump is under $200 and can be changed in about 30 minutes (in most cases).
Anyway, no boat is EVER perfect (unless it's MainSails (joke!)) and there will always be a list of things to do. The surveyors job is to find things, but that doesn't mean the boat isn't a good condition or that you should not purchase it.
Good luck,
Barry
do yourself a favor and learn much more about catalina 30's, or sailboats in general, before you go further. many of the problems your surveyor encountered would have apparent to even a slightly experienced sailor. instead of spending money on survey after survey discover on your own boat what goes wrong on a boat. finding a good twenty year old boat may not be very easy, but it can be done. slow down, and good luck.
It can be daunting to try to buy your first boat.
Here's where we can help.
We can offer advice, we can offer information. For example: your engine. It sounds like an M25 diesel, same as what I have in my boat. I put off buying a bigger boat for many years, 'cuz it was easier for me to lift the outboard off the C25 and bring it in for service! When we got our new boat in 1998, the PO told us it overheated. I did a LOT of research (pre-internet as we know it today days!!!) and figured I'd start with the HX. I took it off and found one of the inelt ports plugged up, cleaned it out and it worked just fine.
You're looking at older boats, but yet seem to miss the point that either YOU are going to have to learn to do the work (none of us was born a mechanic!) or pay someone else to do it. Most of us who have taken the latter course have regretted it, finding that what WE do, we do right the first time.
Sherwood pump: it's crap, replace it with an Oberdorfer, as already said, maybe an hour of work for $260 for a new pump. Sources: that we can help you out with www.depcopump.com
Our C34 website has a ton of information on these engines.
HX - take it off, replace the hoses. All of them.
Tach inop? Bet the PO didn't know any better. Probably a loose wire. Maybe his hour counter got stuck (they sometimes do) so he added another meter. That's good.
Dirty engine? Clean it! Geez...
We could go on, but if you expect a turnkey boat at that age, you're dreamin'. YOU have to make the choice, I got that part, but from what you've told us you found a good boat, with good "bones" that needs some work.
So what else is new?
Good luck.
Here's where we can help.
We can offer advice, we can offer information. For example: your engine. It sounds like an M25 diesel, same as what I have in my boat. I put off buying a bigger boat for many years, 'cuz it was easier for me to lift the outboard off the C25 and bring it in for service! When we got our new boat in 1998, the PO told us it overheated. I did a LOT of research (pre-internet as we know it today days!!!) and figured I'd start with the HX. I took it off and found one of the inelt ports plugged up, cleaned it out and it worked just fine.
You're looking at older boats, but yet seem to miss the point that either YOU are going to have to learn to do the work (none of us was born a mechanic!) or pay someone else to do it. Most of us who have taken the latter course have regretted it, finding that what WE do, we do right the first time.
Engine ran OK - that's GREAT news.
Sherwood pump: it's crap, replace it with an Oberdorfer, as already said, maybe an hour of work for $260 for a new pump. Sources: that we can help you out with www.depcopump.com
Our C34 website has a ton of information on these engines.
HX - take it off, replace the hoses. All of them.
Tach inop? Bet the PO didn't know any better. Probably a loose wire. Maybe his hour counter got stuck (they sometimes do) so he added another meter. That's good.
Dirty engine? Clean it! Geez...
We could go on, but if you expect a turnkey boat at that age, you're dreamin'. YOU have to make the choice, I got that part, but from what you've told us you found a good boat, with good "bones" that needs some work.
So what else is new?
Good luck.
Sluggo (great name, BTW!),
20 year old boat IS an education, but...you're gettin' there.
Bottom job - whaddya expect?
Cutless bearing? Maybe, check it yourself.
If you're going into this sized boat, buy & READ Nigel Calder's Boatowners Manual for Mechanical & Electrical Systems. The less expensive 2nd edition is best for you, and more easily readable.
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=102541
Get the survey and then come back with details. Right now, any decision is premature.
),20 year old boat IS an education, but...you're gettin' there.
Bottom job - whaddya expect?
Cutless bearing? Maybe, check it yourself.
If you're going into this sized boat, buy & READ Nigel Calder's Boatowners Manual for Mechanical & Electrical Systems. The less expensive 2nd edition is best for you, and more easily readable.
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=102541
Get the survey and then come back with details. Right now, any decision is premature.