My surveyor said that I must remove and inspect my chainplates and his Idea was to unscrew the deckscrews and pull out the top plate. I unscrewed the screws and removed the sealent, however, the plate on the deck appears to be one piece with the rod beneath. I can't figure out how to remove the rod so as to reseal the plate back onto the deck. I tried turning both the top plate and the nut at the bottom of the rod - both feel like I'll break them if I applySurveyer who asked for this has bo clue. Can anyone help please?
Legend 35.5 Chainplates. My Surveyor asked for something impossible and I'm now stuck. Please help :(
- Thread starter logon9
- Start date
* both feel like I'll break them if I apply more pressure.
*Surveyor who asked for this, appears to has no clue as to what I would do now.
*Surveyor who asked for this, appears to has no clue as to what I would do now.
Disclaimer !!!! I know NOTHING about Hunters, but what "chainplates" is he referring to ? What I see is a tie rod that probably goes to a hull stringer. Technically that deck plate is acting as a chainplate would, I guess.
Who is he and why is he making strange demands of you anyway ? Tell him you "inspected" and they are "just dandy".
Who is he and why is he making strange demands of you anyway ? Tell him you "inspected" and they are "just dandy".
Maybe ask the member who posted this?
hunter.sailboatowners.com
Hunter Owner Modifications and Upgrades
Hunter Owner Modifications and Upgrades
hunter.sailboatowners.com
Better still, tell us who he is so others don’t make the same mistake.
it really irritates me when people claim to have the expertise but are simply lying to screw others.
Yea, all sounds very extreme to be. On hunters there is a plate set in the deck that the top plate bolts onto. The rod going through can be quite stcuk on the plate making it hard to get out. I have never herd of a survey asking such things and as suggested above I would not pay him or move on. All that said I have had one break on my H49, and what's more on removal it was clear it had been 1/2 broken for some time. see halfway through Port Carmen, Palompon, Calangaman, Malapascua, Jilantangan | Screensaver (wordpress.com) So while I think his request was extreme, could be he has been bitten by an event like this.
Nice coverage of the problem. I saw your photos and comment that you "increased the thickness in the replacement rods...".
Was the increase in thickness carried all the way through the lower threaded portion or did you have to step them down where they screw into the anchor?
Can you explain what this photo is of?
Yes the increase was all the way. First I checked that the whole in the deck plate, that is set in the deck would take a bigger size, which it just did. Then in the picture you see this is like a huge upside down "u" section also made of stainless, and in my case extremely thick. My increased size rod did not quite fit, so I inifact had to drilled it our a couple of mill. This U section in my case goes around one of the major ribs/frame of the boat. It basically holds the lower end of the rod, which comes down from the round deck plate that is bolted to the outside of the deck, then through the deck plate that is set in the deck, down through the upside down U and a large nut and lock nut goes on the end, where you can tighten it up. Note to my suprise the shaft that comes down was NOT 316. As I recall it was 308, which I had not seen before. The explanation I was given was to reduce the fracture component of 316, it was by design. Because I could not source 308 in Philippines, I used 304 trying to follow at least the mindset intent of the original material. I replaced both even though the other side was not damaged as far as I could see. I have had 3 fairly Maijor failures all have been at the weld points, one of which was a bad design.
As you said @Screen Saver, that is an old failure just waiting to cause loosing the mast 
. Just out of curiosity do you think you have a suspected cause for the type of corrosion seen and why it was not on the other side? It looks like, based on the location of the failure, that the only way to inspect that area of the shaft with it installed is to cut a larger hole in the headliner to look up into the base of the deck fitting? Any ideas? I know inspection of the anchor point at the bottom is not easy either.
. Just out of curiosity do you think you have a suspected cause for the type of corrosion seen and why it was not on the other side? It looks like, based on the location of the failure, that the only way to inspect that area of the shaft with it installed is to cut a larger hole in the headliner to look up into the base of the deck fitting? Any ideas? I know inspection of the anchor point at the bottom is not easy either.
@Screen Saver : Thanks. It looks like your rod anchor setup is significantly easier to address than the OP's or some of the "smaller" Hunters.
Research suggest that the failure was very prevalent (ie the plate rod and fastening on frame) when this concept first came out year ago due to the load line NOT being 100% in alignment, ie of you drew a line down the stay all the way to the U point fastening then the line would have bend in it where it passes through the Deck. Many designs found it hard to insure the load line was straight and in the case of my Hunter its not 100% straight either. Personally I don’t think the load line in my case was the problem as its not far enough out. However two out of my three failures have been as per the following. Ie when the metal rod is inserted into the round base plate in this case, during manufacturing they cut a grove around the rod perhaps 0.5mm. That grove then lines up with the base of the plate and then they weld around the base filling the grove, supposedly giving the weld a better bite. In my cases this is exactly where the failures has occurred both here and the other failure which was in the Lewmar steering arm. So in my rebuilt ones we did not do this, but instead made about 0.5mm arrised edge on the plate and kept the shaft as it was, then welded in the arise (and of course on the outside as it was). As for inspection, the lower end U bolt thing on the frame is behind the lounge seat so easily visible, simply remove the cushion. However the upper end you have no chance of seeing. On my H49 you have a solid panel liner about 10mm, then the deck itself about another 10mm (roughly). Even if you cut a 50mm (2”) diameter circle through to the deck you would not get the angle to inspect the weld. Ona regular bases I grab the middle of the rod and give it a good tug with both hands and I think that’s the best I can practically do. Being alert and not letting the unexplained go as per the blog article is what has saved me.As you said @Screen Saver, that is an old failure just waiting to cause loosing the mast
Yes bigger boat I guess makes it a bit easier. I have had three failure along similar lines.
1. Was a stud on lewmar steering arm
Oh shit what have I done | Screensaver (wordpress.com)
2. Was weld failure on bow roller assembly due to bad design & weld
Waisai–To be dis masted or not–Part 1 | Screensaver (wordpress.com)
3. Was this rod mounting weld and probably general fatigue.
Port Carmen, Palompon, Calangaman, Malapascua, Jilantangan | Screensaver (wordpress.com)
Basically I think I have had 8 of my nine lives and number 8 last year was extremely close to the ninth and last life
Kandrian (New Britain) Attacked !!! Violent Armed Boarding | Screensaver (wordpress.com)