Heater hoses

[maneframe]

1987 Legend 37
I need to replace the hoses between the engine and the water heater (they have definitely seen better days).

I assumed I could just stitch new hoses to one end and pull them through. No such luck. I tried both directions both pushing and pulling. They act as though they are tied off half way between the two ends. I pulled hard enough to start separating the hose itself. Of course they run through a tunnel (I'm sure there is a proper marine term that escapes me right now) that is below the floor boards. There is no access into that "inverted tunnel".

I'm hoping someone has some mechanics trick I don't know of. Otherwise I will have to start drilling new holes to create new pathways from the engine to the heater (which is under the Port Settee, behind the sink). There has to be a better way....

Any suggestions?

 

[Rick486]

There is such a tool known as a "plumber's snake". It is a coil of heavy wire that you can literally "snake" through spaces with no access. Buy it at you local hardware or big box. You may be able to push it through the spaces and pull the new hose back through. It is worth a try.
Rick

 

[Sailboat.Sequoyah]

Literally no access? The sole boards can't be unscrewed and removed? Bummer.

An electrician's fiberglass rod, or fish tape, should work to push or pull the new hose through. After all, that tunnel can't be but so kinky. It shouldn't have any really sharp twists or turns. The old hoses, if they can't be removed, could be cut off as far in as you can reach and just left there. It's not an ideal solution, but ...

 

[BrianRobin]

My 351 had zip ties holding the hoses together ,a good tug moved them though , I used lots of dishwashing soap , (lots of it) and pushed the hoses back and forth

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

Try this before you unscrew the floorbords or anything else. On my boat it's a 2-beer job !
1) You probably already have disconnected the hoses to by-pass the system so you've already
started the replacement process.
2) Get proper hose. Rad hoses from an autopart store do nicely and you can get a 25' length
at a decent price. Pressure in the system is only 15 pounds (like a car). Connect one end of
new hose to engine fitting as follows:
3) Get 5-inch piece of copper tubing 1/2" i.d.
4) Slip copper tubing in disconnected end of old hose and other end of new hose, connecting
the old and new end-to-end
5) Duck-tape tightly over the butt-ends, going about 6 inches each side of the joint. Spread
a little bit of dishwashing liquid over the taped section of hoses to make it real slippery.
6) Open 2 beers and call your dock neighbor.
7) Disconnect hoses at water heater
8) With your dock neighbor pushing slowly on new hose, reach in the settee and pull slowly
on old one. The trick is to make the new hose go into each turn without jamming (the soap
helps).
9) Cut hose and install on tank fitting.
10) Repeat process for second hose.
11) Protect from chafing where you can.
12) Run engine and check for leaks.
13) Open second beer, congratulate yourself and thank your neighbor.
Good luck

 

[maneframe]

Excellent suggestions - but no joy so far. I used an endoscope to check. The hoses are zip tied to each other and to the water lines (and I think to an anchor screw) - at 2 spots I can't possibly reach. I tried the pushing and pulling - from both ends - but the zip ties are grabbing too tight. They never moved far enough to worry about soaping them up.

I'm off to get my hole saws - this is not going to be fun.....

 

[Hunter Ad Bot]

And now a word from the sponsor...

Hunter props, shafts, struts, and cutless bearings

See the product

 

[Rick486]

Excellent suggestions - but no joy so far. I used an endoscope to check. The hoses are zip tied to each other and to the water lines (and I think to an anchor screw) - at 2 spots I can't possibly reach. I tried the pushing and pulling - from both ends - but the zip ties are grabbing too tight. They never moved far enough to worry about soaping them up.

I'm off to get my hole saws - this is not going to be fun.....

Why not just abandon the old hose(s) and run new ones. Why is it necessary to remove the old?

 

[maneframe]

fair question. There is no direct path for new lines without cutting LOTS of new holes.
It's hard without a picture, but the stringer (the "tunnel" parts of the hull) is fairly wide. While I can cut new holes on the side facing the bilge, I have to pull the entire port settee to get to the side facing the outer hull where the water heater is located. Or, I have to cut holes big enough to put my hand inside - which is do-able, but I hate cutting more holes in something that is structural..... on top of that, the stringer has 90 and 45 degree turns between the motor and water heater which will also need holes to get around those spots.

I think I'm going to pull the old lines, even if it just rips them in half in the process - then cut just enough holes just so I can re-route the same path. not impossible - just I thought it would be simple like replacing a halyard.

 

[sailcapt340]

If you've decided the only way is to just pull them out of the zip ties, given you can get a good grip on them, I would suggest like the others have......
Use a plumbers snake, but send it through the hose and tie it off on the opposite end from where you are pulling from.
This way when you do get the hose out you have a line to attach the new hose to and the same path to follow, minus the ties.
You "may" just be able to guide (push) the hose through without any cutting by pulling on the snake. OR
You "may" be able to slide the new hose onto the snake and push it through allowing it to follow the snake all the way. I did just that when I did my 340 a few years back, only I used a flexible plastic rod and pushed the new hose over it and through a very tight bend. Then just pulled the rod out when the hose was where I wanted it.
Worth a try before any cutting.
I hope you have a easy time of it, it's a bear of a job but it can be done.
Good luck.

 

[sailme88]

Check with your local equipment rental center. You should be able to rent a sewer line camera or other such optical devise. Use this to run along the hose ( not inside). It won't be able to free up and snags, but you'll know exactly where they are.

As an alternative to the hose issue, you may be able to run PEX inside the old rubber,,,

 

[maneframe]

plenty of great suggestions.
I had not thought of running something inside the hose! Even if the hose breaks apart at one of the turns, I could still have a line left to pull the new. I have an electricians tape that I've used to run wires (sort of a flat, stiff, bendy wire on a spool). I'm going to give that a try down the inside of the existing hose. (ps. I do have a scope. I can see all the raw, rough fiberglass inside the stringer at the turns - just makes it harder for old, stiff rubber hose to slide by.)
I'll let you know....