Self furling jib

[LakeShark]

My boat has an old Mariner roller furling system that does not require any head sail modification but also does not allow for reefing. The entire forestay rotates with the hanks to roll up the sail. I know the company is long gone but there is a newer company out of Sweden that claims to have a hank on furler that allows for reefing and furling. Has anyone on this forum ever used them? Although pricy if it works it might be a better solution for boats that are trailered frequently.

Smartroller (you'll need to translate the page to read it in english by right clicking the mouse and selecting translate to english with google chrome)

http://smartroller.se/

 

[rgranger]

And I admit I had to look it up!

Yeah me too....

 

[Lynn McT]

Ok, looks like I need to elaborate / clarify;

I acknowledge that having a fuling jib is a personal preference. My hubby and I are joining the sailing game late, and neither one of us is comfortable with the idea of scrambling over the forward deck to set the jib when needed. I'm the one who would be doing the scrambling and my knees are not always reliable. We have been out once with an instructor and the jib was a changes for the storm jib. It was a lot of work, so we decided on a furling jib rigging that could be reefer as required.
We do have a trailer, but it was purchased primarily for put in and take out. We back onto a golf course, and they have graciously allowed Us to store it on their property for the winter at no charge (the trailer will pay for itself in 3 seasons). The shop we have found is aware of this, and has recommended Furlex 85-08 or ESP-O.

Thanks for the terminology lessons

 

[rgranger]

@LakeShark

That smart roller does look like the best of both approaches.

 

[rgranger]

That boat has sweeeeet lines. Nice find.

 

[BlowMeAway]

Nice looking boat @Lynn McT . I'm an old school sailor on an old boat and we rock the hanked on version of headsails, so I apologetically withdraw from commentary...but man can we point into a stiff breeze. Good luck with you choices.

 

[Joe]

The French have always excelled at making beautiful boats...congratulations! Now.. if you're budget conscious, you can postpone the expense of a new roller furling unit AND the cost of modifying your current headsail to adapt to the furler. Simply install a "jib downhaul". This is a line attached to the top HANK (not the headboard) that runs down to a small block (please don't insult your lovely boat with a Loew's pulley.... please!) attached to the stem... the line is guided back to a cleat near the cockpit through a strategically mounted bullet fairlead if needed. I run my line along the stanchions so I can stow it in the coaming box. I purchased a couple of stanchion mounted fairleads.... which will be necessary anyway, if you go with roller furling later.

A small harken or ronstan block will set you back less than $20, fifty feet or so of simple 1/8 or 5/32 Dacron line will be about 15.. add 10 for a small Ronstan Vee cleat.... or get the smallest Cam Cleat for another 10.. and you're good.

Hank the jib on at the dock.... attach the downhaul to the top hank... I let mine fly outside... some folks thread the line through the hank. The downhaul will keep the sail secure on deck till you're ready to hoist. Go sailing. When it's time to drop the headsail... the downhaul will help you control it so it drops right on deck... I often drop mine in the shadow of the main as I sail downwind into the harbor. I do this with the halyard in the left hand and the downhaul in the right..... tiller between my legs, steering with my knees...

Safe and easy... no reason to go forward.

 

[jssailem]

Lynn that is a sweet looking boat. You guys are going to have some fun.
The furler will be an addition that adds complexity. It is one reason those of us who tend to old school and purist sailing lean to suggest you try the boat for a while in it's natural state. Age does affect our interest in tools to make our recreation easier to enjoy.
Regarding your knees, I often find that siting on the deck gives me a more comfortable and stable position to work on the bow. Planning and acting to reduce sail before it is needed when moving around the boat is easier.
Bringing a foresail down when the wind is strong is often not enough. When the breeze is strong you may need to remove the sail from the forestay and bring the sail into the cabin.
Having a furler is not always enough. My last cruise, caught us with a bit too much fore sail up. When I started to furler the sail, a gust hit the back of the sail backing the furler and creating a rope bite in the line. This meant the sail was not going in or out. I had to crawl out to the bow, work the sail and the furler line back and forth to release the bite and get the sail under control. Having had some experiences on the bow in rough water with hank on sails gave me the confidence needed to solve the problem That is one of the reasons I suggest you build your skills with the hank on 100% jib at least for a season (leaving the big genoa in the bag).
While cost is an issue with Harken, they are the maker of great furler products with forgiving features.
Best of luck. Fair winds. And it is great to have you joining us on the forum.

 

[Kermit]

I say buy the furlere. Mine is a Harken which uses the jib halyard. It's just not that hard to raise and lower the jib when necessary. Go for it and have fun. I'm right there with you on the knees.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Lynn;
Thank you for posting the photo of your sailboat. It looks sweet.
I am not familiar with the newer furling units but glad you have a shop nearby that can help in the installation. Just a few comments
1. Suggest either using sail tape or installing turnbuckle boot covers because the cotter pins in your shroud
turnbuckles will catch on the jib sheets coming out and in a strong blow, you could loose your mast. Also
those cotter pins can rip a sail or your hand if not curled inside the turnbuckle body.
2. The furling line exiting the furling drum, make sure it exits properly so it will not chafe. It could wear
out the line quicker, make it harder to pull in, and so on. Your shop should know this.
3. If tracks are added, make sure all bolts have backing washers and properly caulked to prevent leaks.
Your rig shop or installer will know that.

You will find many folks here that are willing and want to help you. Fair winds and smooth sailing.

 

[Justin_NSA]

I say buy the furlere. Mine is a Harken which uses the jib halyard. It's just not that hard to raise and lower the jib when necessary. Go for it and have fun. I'm right there with you on the knees.

I'm with Kermie. We're senior sailors also and the furler is more than a luxury for us. I daresay it will keep us in the sport longer. Personally, I think a CDI furler would be more bang for the buck.
Great looking boat. Looks very stable.

Syzygy, inexorable, pancreatic, phantasmagoria --- anyone who can use those four words in one sentence will never have to do manual labor. - W. P. Kinsella