Fuel lift pump - Yanmar 2GMF
- Thread starter jmce1587
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This is one fun area to work on.
Last winter I got around to dealing with a very small leak in this area. Was sure it was the fuel pump itself so .................... replaced the diaphragm and the gasket where the pump is attached to the block.
Close but no cigar. It still leaked. Turned out to be one of the banjo fittings on the fuel line. Replaced the copper washers in both banjo fittings and all is clean and dry again in this area.
One tip that may (or may not) be useful is to re-torque any new pump gaskets, etc. after the engine has been loaded for a few hours. Surprising how much additional take-up you can often get on fiber gaskets.
Last winter I got around to dealing with a very small leak in this area. Was sure it was the fuel pump itself so .................... replaced the diaphragm and the gasket where the pump is attached to the block.
Close but no cigar. It still leaked. Turned out to be one of the banjo fittings on the fuel line. Replaced the copper washers in both banjo fittings and all is clean and dry again in this area.
One tip that may (or may not) be useful is to re-torque any new pump gaskets, etc. after the engine has been loaded for a few hours. Surprising how much additional take-up you can often get on fiber gaskets.
KISS
You couldn't have told me that BEFORE I did the pump :cussing: .....................
? ? ? ?
KISS (keep it simple stupid) always pays off.
You couldn't have told me that BEFORE I did the pump :cussing: .....................
? ? ? ?
I can third Ralph and Scott's suggestions to check the banjo bolt crush washers.
I also had a 'leaking lift pump' on my 2gmf, which is what I had diagnosed by tracing the drips with some paper towel, my finger and a mirror. Before ripping it apart I followed somebody's suggestion to check the washers (o-rings)
I bought a bag full so that I'd have extras, replaced each one on the inlet/outlet, and viola, the leak stopped.
Keep in mind that generally these are a one-time use item. If you have a fitting that has backed off, and the washer has rotated, tightening it back up without replacing the washer will frequently result in a fitting that leaks. The copper washer is 'crushed' to fit/seal the mating surfaces as you tighten the bolt, but won't re-crush to seal a slightly different surface.
I also had a 'leaking lift pump' on my 2gmf, which is what I had diagnosed by tracing the drips with some paper towel, my finger and a mirror. Before ripping it apart I followed somebody's suggestion to check the washers (o-rings)
I bought a bag full so that I'd have extras, replaced each one on the inlet/outlet, and viola, the leak stopped.
Keep in mind that generally these are a one-time use item. If you have a fitting that has backed off, and the washer has rotated, tightening it back up without replacing the washer will frequently result in a fitting that leaks. The copper washer is 'crushed' to fit/seal the mating surfaces as you tighten the bolt, but won't re-crush to seal a slightly different surface.
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