This will be the first time I'm doing the winterization on my Universal 5411 diesel. I'll be doing it on the hard. Is there any reason I can't set up a bucket in the cockpit(like the MS winterization video) of my 1980 C27 and run a hose from the bucket to the lower end of the Tee just above the intake seacock? The water pump impellar will be able to pull the water from the bucket just as it pulls the water from below the boat when the boat is in the water? I'm only concerned that for some reason the water pump impellar won't pull the water through what could be a 5 to 6 foot hose looped into a bucket in the cockpit.
Winterizing a Universal 5411 Diesel
- Thread starter Ajay73
- Start date
There is no "head" to pump against unless I misunderstand your description. The bucket (in the cockpit) will be above the engine.
Don's right. Just do what Maine Sail did, just like the video. IIRC, he explained why. View it again.
It will work fine provided the seacock is not open. Just be 100% sure to remove the hose from the bucket when you shut off the engine so it does not siphon and hydrolock your engine. Also do not forget to remove the t-stat if this is a RWC engine..
I plan on disconnecting the intake and recirculating hoses from the seacock tee and attach them to another tee that will then draw from the 5 gallon bucket through the 5 to 6 foot hose. Not sure I understand the hydrolocking concept. I plan on running the engine until the 5 gallon bucket of antifreeze is totally drawn off. I will also be looking to see that the antifreeze is being spit out the exhaust. This I think will tell me that the antifreeze has been run through the entire engine.
You don't need to use an entire 5 gallon bucket of antifreeze to winterize this lil' engine.
I have the 5411 as well. Just take off the intake hose from the inlet sea cock & place the hose drectly into a jug of winterizing pink type antifreeze. You should see the antifreeze coming out of exhaust fitting after only a few seconds. It should only take about half of the jug to fully winterize the engine, as there is no fresh water heat exchanger installed to worry about. Some folks also drain out their water muffler, if yours has a fitting on it, but if the fitting is rusted or corroded looking I wouldn't mess with it, as you're liable to cause a leak. Don't forget to add some fuel stabilizer for diesel fuel in your fuel tank. I usually wait until the start of the season in the spring to change my engine oil, with new oil since its just sitting all winter anyway. Its always good to start fresh when spring commissioning.
I have the 5411 as well. Just take off the intake hose from the inlet sea cock & place the hose drectly into a jug of winterizing pink type antifreeze. You should see the antifreeze coming out of exhaust fitting after only a few seconds. It should only take about half of the jug to fully winterize the engine, as there is no fresh water heat exchanger installed to worry about. Some folks also drain out their water muffler, if yours has a fitting on it, but if the fitting is rusted or corroded looking I wouldn't mess with it, as you're liable to cause a leak. Don't forget to add some fuel stabilizer for diesel fuel in your fuel tank. I usually wait until the start of the season in the spring to change my engine oil, with new oil since its just sitting all winter anyway. Its always good to start fresh when spring commissioning.
eh, here ya go. How've you been? Our Oberdorfer continues to work just great, thanks again, Stu
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=136339&highlight=winterizing
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=136339&highlight=winterizing
Hi Stu,
Thanks for the link!
The original Orberdorfer pump body, with the rebuild that I did last year seems to be working 100%. I have a complete, brand new, spare pump purchased this spring from Depco in my spares kit. However, since I brought it aboard, the old pump hasn't leaked more than a couple of drops...
Thanks for the link!
The original Orberdorfer pump body, with the rebuild that I did last year seems to be working 100%
. I have a complete, brand new, spare pump purchased this spring from Depco in my spares kit. However, since I brought it aboard, the old pump hasn't leaked more than a couple of drops...
The sediment that settle out of old oil is corrosive I would not leave dirty oil to sit and eat away at engine parts. Keep it clean It's going to sit still for a long time.
Code:
JR, if you just take off the top hose won't antifreeze spit out the top of the tee when the antifreeze returns through the recirculating line? As I understand these engines the water flow is through the block and back through the recirculating return line and then back through the block until the temp increases enough to open the thermostat. When the the thermostat opens then water flows out the exhaust and new water is pulled in through the intake line. Wait, are you talking about disconnecting below the tee? On my boat I have a seacock and then a nipple and then the mixing tee so I don't have a hose between the tee and the seacock.
Well to be honest my P.O. installed a nice little winterizing valve on the water intake line above the inlet sea cock that allows me to unscrew a cap on an inline fitting so that I can just pour the antifreeze into the raw water intake hose, with the main seacock closed of course. I don't think these fittings are very expensive. As I recall mine may even have "Prestone" printed on it, so it was likely designed for a car engine. But you can just disconnect the inlet hose from the raw water seacock & place the end of the hose directly into the pink antifreeze jug to winterize. I always leave the valve closed that recirculates the water back to the engine block via the thermostst loop. This loop is really only necessary when the air temp is really cold, as the thermostat allows the engine to warm up to operating temtperature a lil faster, by recirculating the raw water back into the engine over & over until the thermo opens up. But in summertime running its really unecessary, and I don't like the thermo. controlled loop, because it stops flow of raw water to the water muffler & exhaust for several minutes until the thermo opens up. This makes me nervous, as I'm one of those sailors that likes to see water coming out of the exhaust as soon as I start her up! If the impeller was blocked or messed up, you wouldn't even know it with the thermostat controlled setup. I consulted several marine mechanics about this, and they all stated that it maks lil difference using the thermo controlled loop, other then letting the engine warm up a few minutes faster, so it reaches operating temp. quicker.
My 2 cents worth.
My 2 cents worth.
So you have a valve on the recirculating line and shut it off in the summertime? If so then I'm confused about how the 5411 works. I thought that you need that recirc line open otherwise there is no circulation of water at all through the engine block. I thought that water entering the exhaust line only entered it after the thermostate opened up which then allowed new, cooler seawater being drawn in to control engine temp. I didn't think you could "force" water into the exhaust line by closing the recirc line. I do agree that it's uncomfortable not seeing water come out the exhaust line immediately on engine start up but my engine runs consistently at 150 F and when the temp starts moving up a little water starts spitting out the exhaust line and the temp returns to the 150 F. When I pulled my boat out today for the winter I was talking with someone about my engine and its water flow and he said that most engines have a "bypass" that allows some water to enter the exhaust line all the time in order to cool the exhaust hose otherwise it would get extremely hot. That sounds reasonable but I've looked and no water that I can see comes out of the exhaust until the engine temp reaches above 150 F. As far as the exhaust line getting extremely hot my boat's exhaust line runs uphill to the back of the boat and therefore always has water laying in it (there is a check valve that prevents the water from flowing back toward the engine) and I'm guessing that keeps the exhaust line cool somewhat. I thought I new something about my engine but I'm still pretty much a novice about it.
See photo. This is just a test for attaching a photo. Pretty easy. Why didn't I try this before.
Attachments
I didn't remove the thermostat but ran the engine until the temp reached normal operating temp and AF was running out the exhaust for quite a while. I didn't think to remember to remove the t-stat but that is a really good point to remember for next year.
Another question on this 5411 engine. Is the only way you could get water in the pistions is for it to back up through the exhaust loop that comes off the exhaust manifold? The service manual shows water circulation diagram through the engine block and then through the exhaust manifold (I'm assuming the flow through the exhaust manifold is really in a water jacket around the actual exhaust tunnels) where it contacts the thermostat which when open allows water to enter the exhaust line and when closed just recirculates back to the mixing tee at the inlet seacock.
Easy 5411 winterizing
I have not winterized a 5411 for some time but, I do remember not using any antifreeze at all. I drained the block and manifold of raw water and removed any hoses that had raw water in them so they would drain. The block and manifold had plugs in them that I unscrewed and after that all the raw water was removed and there was nothing left to freeze. Problem solved.
I have not winterized a 5411 for some time but, I do remember not using any antifreeze at all. I drained the block and manifold of raw water and removed any hoses that had raw water in them so they would drain. The block and manifold had plugs in them that I unscrewed and after that all the raw water was removed and there was nothing left to freeze. Problem solved.