Am i getting the Shaft?!?!

[BillyK]

Pulled the shaft out of our C30 yesterday.. a total of 2 hours of bolt twisting fun.. i got up bright and early this morning before the kids and admiral woke up to clean it up.. what i'm wondering is if it will be ok to put back in. there is some wear around the packing area which i would expect after 22 years.. what i'm more concerned with is the pitting i see.. its not deep, and i was able to sand most of it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvlamtUo82I

there's a video of what i have now.. can i put this back in? or will i need to order a new one? i have the dripless packing to use to put back in, which supposedly is design to deal with a worn shaft, but i'm looking for other opinions here..

Thanks

 

[tommays]

At the very least you need a new coupling fitted and faced as in most cases if you try and reuse it it will be to lose now from the rust that formed between it and the shaft and it will wobble

The shaft really depends on the condition in the cutlass and sealing areas

 

[Don12364]

If you even touched it with sandpaper in the region where the packing runs or where it is inside the cutless bearing then I believe the shaft is now unusable as the seal will leak. These surfaces need to be absolutely true and microfinished.
On previous boats, where the packing has worn a groove, I have been able to either use a longer rubber hose or to shorten the existing one so the packing then runs on an untouched part of the shaft.
Also allow +-1/2" for the shaft to be pushed forwards or back as it drives the boat. With a grooved shaft, once the packing beds down into the groove this fore and aft movement results in the packing opening out so it then leaks when the engine returns to its 'normal' position.

 

[BillyK]

At the very least you need a new coupling fitted and faced as in most cases if you try and reuse it it will be to lose now from the rust that formed between it and the shaft and it will wobble

The shaft really depends on the condition in the cutlass and sealing areas

luckily the coupling is still tight and needs to be pressed back on.

 

[BillyK]

If you even touched it with sandpaper in the region where the packing runs or where it is inside the cutless bearing then I believe the shaft is now unusable as the seal will leak. These surfaces need to be absolutely true and microfinished.
On previous boats, where the packing has worn a groove, I have been able to either use a longer rubber hose or to shorten the existing one so the packing then runs on an untouched part of the shaft.
Also allow +-1/2" for the shaft to be pushed forwards or back as it drives the boat. With a grooved shaft, once the packing beds down into the groove this fore and aft movement results in the packing opening out so it then leaks when the engine returns to its 'normal' position.

dang.

 

[Dan Hill]

You say your installing a dripless shaft seal back in. If its a PYI PSS brand you may be ok. Your shaft needs to be clean between the coupler and where the rotor sits. Good Luck!

 

[RichH]

When you pull a shaft, you really should take it to a machine shop and have it checked for 'true' and 'run out' ... and have it corrected. The machinist can also accurately 'dress' the areas that run in journal boxes and cutless bearings. This will lessen the possibility of the shaft 'orbiting' in the cutless and stuffing box which can cause vibrations and 'bearing crash'. Especially 'long' shafts can and do easily become 'bent' during operation.

If your engine is already 'perfectly aligned' with the shaft, etc. Just put a 'dial micrometer' to the side of the shaft at the stuffing box and by hand turn the shaft as you watch the gage to determine 'run out'. More than 'a few thou' should indicate you need the shaft to be 'straightened'. Your machinist will have all the normal run-out specs. for a 'true running' (length/dia./hp transmitted/rpm) shaft.
Take the coupler along when you do this to check the 'true' of the coupler.

 

[navigator97]

While the shaft is out, and it has been in there for 22 years, you may really want to check (and probably replace) the cutlass bearing. better now that later.

 

[BillyK]

While the shaft is out, and it has been in there for 22 years, you may really want to check (and probably replace) the cutlass bearing. better now that later.

thats actually the reason i pulled the shaft..

 

[MrBill_FLL]

I'm with rich, it needs a runout test, or at a minimum a digital caliper reading up and down the length.

its like a crank/rod bearings....

 

[BillyK]

I'm with rich, it needs a runout test, or at a minimum a digital caliper reading up and down the length.

its like a crank/rod bearings....

I've decided to go new.. why mess around with something so important.. Anyone have any suggestions for machine shops near atlantic city that can make me a new shaft?

Thanks.

 

[RichH]

There is no guarantee that even a NEW shaft will not contain a bit of 'run out'. Long thin machined items are subject to 'stress relief' AFTER they are 'cut'. Therefore, dont assume that a new shaft will be 'perfect' with respect to 'run out'.

If you get a new shaft, make sure that the 'run out' is within standard machining 'best' practices - important.

;-)

 

[RAD]

Call a local prop shop and ask if they can help or recommend someone

 

[CalebD]

While you can order a new SS shaft from places online like http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/prop-shafts
I'd suggest you use a 'local' prop shop who can also 'fit and face' your coupler. There is a chance that all the press un-fitting you did may have made your coupling 'out of square' or un-true. The other thing that a prop shop should do for you is to insure that all the pieces will fit together without a nightmare of press fitting all the parts together (coupler - shaft - prop). They should also be able to spin your prop and tell you if it is in good balance.
We started to remove our 43 y.o. bronze shaft last fall but found that it was badly worn at the cutless bearing so out came the Sawzall and the shaft came out peacefully in 2 pieces. The constant torquing of the bolts was a PITA compared to how easily the Sawzall cut the shaft so I know what you went through. More on my rebuild here: http://www.odalisque.us/2011/12/2011-november-30th-begin-drive-train-rebuild/

I googled 'prop shop in NJ' and there are several close-ish to you. I'd recommend the place we used but it is in Newburgh, NY which is not at all nearby. I'd ask around locally what prop shop people in your marina/club use and recommend. Even a recommendation by a power boat owner is a good reference as power boats make up the bulk of their work.
A new SS shaft will cost you in the neighborhood of $200 ~~.
Good luck.

 

[arf145]

There is no guarantee that even a NEW shaft will not contain a bit of 'run out'. Long thin machined items are subject to 'stress relief' AFTER they are 'cut'. Therefore, dont assume that a new shaft will be 'perfect' with respect to 'run out'.

If you get a new shaft, make sure that the 'run out' is within standard machining 'best' practices - important.

;-)

Man, me and my wallet can attest to this. I had our shaft and related parts replaced a couple of years ago by a "professional". Had continued vibration and noise afterward. Talked to the guy and he admitted they didn't check new shafts, because, well, they're new. I began to doubt that they had the new coupling fitted and faced either. Finally had another shop look at it--sent the shaft out and it was not at all true. Essentially did it it all again.

 

[Ray Bowles]

In the area you are in I'm sure there is more that one "marine qualified" machine shop. Ask around the commercial fishing community for recommended shops as they do quite alot of repairs on their boats.
A good shop can do wonders with your old shaft and can advise you if it is beyond repair. Lastly, a new shaft has just about the same chance of being bent or out of run-out spec's as an old shaft and both are repairable.
Good luck, Ray

 

[BillyK]

In the area you are in I'm sure there is more that one "marine qualified" machine shop. Ask around the commercial fishing community for recommended shops as they do quite alot of repairs on their boats.
A good shop can do wonders with your old shaft and can advise you if it is beyond repair. Lastly, a new shaft has just about the same chance of being bent or out of run-out spec's as an old shaft and both are repairable.
Good luck, Ray

My current shaft is bronze, is that worth trying to keep or move to SS?

 

[BillyK]

Found a marine machine shop 30 minutes from me. Shaft, all machining, mating of the coupler and machine alignment of it, and including new nuts and bolts for $296.

that's a done deal..

PSS is on order from Defender, and i already have a new cutlass waiting to be installed.. hopefully by the time in two weeks she's back together.

 

[shemandr]

Because I don't know - does machining the shaft mean that you would need a different cutlass bearing?

 

[kloudie1]

Probably not, Andrew.. I think he is saying that he is getting a new shaft and having the tapered propeller fit and keyway machined on the shaft blank and the coupling bored to fit the new shaft. The new shaft should be the same nominal size so the Cutless will be the same.