Roller Furling Line Replacement and Reinstallation

[Kraffert]

Greetings Fellow Hunter Enthusiasts!

We have an 1989 Hunter 35.5.

It has the 'under deck' roller furling.

The line got damaged due to someone not putting the line through 1 of the sheeves and it rubbing the sheeve housing.

We have taken apart the drum, MOSTLY (stripped screw, tried 2 methods to remove, have a few more to try), we are trying to figure out 2 things.

1.) From observation of other boats on our dock, the drum is pretty much empty with the sail is furled. This leads us to believe that UNFURLING is how it gets tension, which is done with the sheet lines. Is this accurate? So when deployed, the furling line should be locked to keep it open?

2.) In order to get to the drum with sufficient access, we had to separate it from the rigging and sail and open the jib sail to give room to move the drum. We MAY have done this wrong, but aside from the stripped screw, we seem to be in good shape so far. Once we get the new line on, routed, etc. How do we get the tension back into the drum so it'll refurl the sail?

Any information will be GREATLY appreciated.

This is our first boat and, naturally, we've put the cart before the horse.....our instructor won't sail her until this line is replaced and we've had her since August of last year, so you can see we're paying a lot for dock space on a boat we can't use...

 

[colemj]

Furler lines are not under tension unless the sail is partially furled. The drum shouldn't be completely empty when the sail is furled. You want 2-3 wraps then. The reason is because the sail furls at different tightness depending on the force in it when it is furled. If the drum is empty under normal furling, then you won't have enough line to furl it when it furls tighter.

There is no need to lock the furling line when the sail is fully deployed. If you partially reef the sail, then the line needs to be locked in a clutch or cleat or similar.

If you have removed the line with the sail unfurled, then you will need to either hand wind the line around the drum the number of times necessary to furl the sail (very tedious), or drop the sail, spin the drum to load the line on it, and raise the sail and furl it.

The above assumes you have a conventional furler and not some automatic or spring-loaded type I'm not aware of (your use of the word "tension" is confusing). If so, you make sure the furling line is free to run, pull on the sheet to unfurl the sail, and the furling line wraps itself around the drum as the drum turns. To furl the sail, you pull on the furling line and it turns the drum to bring the sail in.

Mark

 

[Kraffert]

Mark,

I've not deployed the jib yet, so unsure how it all works.

When we did sea trial, the captain unfurled it, but I wasn't smart enough to watch. The surveyor said the line was damaged. I saw that they missed a sheeve, so routed incorrectly.

Memory is a bit sketchy about taking it apart, getting old sucks. But I believe the drum was full of line when furled.

If it was and is when it's finished, unfurling is done with the line we replaced.

How do you furl it then?

It seems I'm having a bit of trouble communicating or reading what you're saying.

Maybe I'm using the wrong terms.

If the line is in the drum when furled (rolled up for storage with sunbrella covering the sail), pulling that line will unfurl the sail. How do you furl it when finished using it?

I was thinking that using the sheet line (the lines used during tacking) would deploy the sail. Then the furling line would roll it back up.

Am I wrong?

 

[kappykaplan]

If the line is in the drum when furled (rolled up for storage with sunbrella covering the sail), pulling that line will unfurl the sail. How do you furl it when finished using it?

I was thinking that using the sheet line (the lines used during tacking) would deploy the sail.

You don't. As others have stated, there should be a few wraps of line on the furler drum when the jib is unfurled. You use the jib sheet to unfurl the jib, keeping some tension on the furling line so it doesn't get gummed up in/on the drum.

 

[JoeWhite]

If the line is in the drum when furled (rolled up for storage with sunbrella covering the sail), pulling that line will unfurl the sail. How do you furl it when finished using it?

The above statement is not correct.
The drum has no line on it when the jib is furled.
It is the opposite of what you are thinking.
Take a look at other boats in the slips in the marina.

 

[jssailem]

I was thinking that using the sheet line (the lines used during tacking) would deploy the sail. Then the furling line would roll it back up.

Jib (genoa) is Furled = Jib is wrapped up around the forestay on the furler. The sun cover for the jib is on the outside and 2-3 wraps are around the furled sail to keep it wrapped.

When sail is Furled, the furling line is mostly back in the cockpit. Mostly, because 2-3 wraps of the line may be on the drum.

 

[Kraffert]

Thank you everyone!

 

[Kraffert]

Update:

I've started another thread with this information, but nobody has responded there...

I've taken every screw, pin, etc out of the furling 'drum' and cannot gain access to the knot that holds the line in the drum.

I thought about cutting the bad part of the line, then whipping the hell out of it, whipping the hell out of the new line, then sewing them together as a replacement. That being said, I'm still a bit concerned about the strength of the sewed line.

I've researched online and found a way to splice the lines together, intended for a jib line, but called continuous loop, they say (line manufacturer made the video) it's still at 90% of the strength by doing it that way.

Anyone have experience splicing lines end to end and have a failure or success?

I'm not looking at this as permanent, just until I can save enough to buy a new furler system.

 

[BigEasy]

My ‘88 H33.5 had a below deck Hood furler With a continuous line furling configuration; therefore, the furling line didn’t wrap & accumulate on the drum as most furlers do. i haven’t owned that boat for 20 years, so memory is sketchy; however, to unfurl, need to release clutch on furling line & pull on working (leeward sheet) to unfurl. When furling, pull on furling line until sail is completely furled & lock clutch on furling line. If you have a continuous line furler & need to replace the line, check on you tube for instructions on how to splice the line together to form a continuous loop. I wouldn’t be concerned about the 90% line strength; I replaced the line on mine because of chaffing into cover, using a splice, and it held up fine. If you aren’t comfortable doing this repair, hire a rigger to do it for you; shouldn’t take but an hour or two to get you going if you fix the stripped screw problem yourself. Good luck & hope you’re sailing soon!

 

[BigEasy]

I've taken every screw, pin, etc out of the furling 'drum' and cannot gain access to the knot that holds the line in the drum.

If yours is a continuous line furler, there is no knot inside the drum. There is a plastic piece inside the drum that resembles a gear, with raised surfaces that engage the continuous line. I believe that you remove/raise the top cover plate on the drum & thread the new line around plastic gear, ensuring that the line enters & exits the drum correctly. Reinstall the cover plate & then complete your line splice after running line thru any deck sheaves & clutch/jammers. If you miss any, you will have to cut the line & redo the splice! Again, it’s been many years, but that’s what I recall.

 

[colemj]

Update:

I've started another thread with this information, but nobody has responded there...

I've taken every screw, pin, etc out of the furling 'drum' and cannot gain access to the knot that holds the line in the drum.

I thought about cutting the bad part of the line, then whipping the hell out of it, whipping the hell out of the new line, then sewing them together as a replacement. That being said, I'm still a bit concerned about the strength of the sewed line.

I've researched online and found a way to splice the lines together, intended for a jib line, but called continuous loop, they say (line manufacturer made the video) it's still at 90% of the strength by doing it that way.

Anyone have experience splicing lines end to end and have a failure or success?

I'm not looking at this as permanent, just until I can save enough to buy a new furler system.

I can't find where you said what furler this is. Certainly, it must allow for replacement of the furling line, and it seems likely that is in the manual for the furler.

I've done exactly one continuous line splice. I did not find it easy, but this was for a continuous line furler where the diameter of the splice could not be different from that of the rest of the line. That is the tricky part. If you are just doing a long splice where diameter was more forgiving, then it would be easier.

But I don't recommend splicing a new line onto an old one - particularly close to the drum where the maximum load is taken. At some point in the future, you will need to replace the line, so figuring out how to do it now is prudent.

Mark

 

[colemj]

Oh! Is this a continuous line furler? That makes a lot of difference. Post a photo or tell us the make/model.

Mark

 

[Kraffert]

It is NOT continuous, it's knotted in the drum and, as shown, after a few wraps (unsure why)

I've researched and found it's usually a ProFurl, I've emailed them.

I DID get the stripped screw out thinking that'd make that bottom piece come off, it didn't, though I'm guessing it's got at least some corrosion holding it in.

On the top there's a spring clip holding the housing on, I tried to remove that and only had some loose bearings come out, it wouldn't separate from the bottom to access the drum.

I'm guessing the top is what needs to come off, but not knowing what brand or model this is would make it hard to find bearings to replace those that are there.....I'm also guessing the spring clip would need replacement too.

 

[BigEasy]

Time to call a rigger & evaluate repair cost vs replacement. If you’re going to have to completely rebuild & you‘re not up to doing it yourself, it may be more economical to replace it. Parts availability / lack of availability may be another factor.

 

[BigEasy]

I've not deployed the jib yet, so unsure how it all works.
Memory is a bit sketchy about taking it apart, getting old sucks. But I believe the drum was full of line when furled.

When the sail is furled, with Sunbrella cover shielding the sailcloth, there should only be a one or two furling line wraps on the drum, if it has a single furling line. When the sail is unfurled, there will be many furling line wraps around the drum With appearance that drum is nearly full.

 

[Kraffert]

When the sail is furled, with Sunbrella cover shielding the sailcloth, there should only be a one or two furling line wraps on the drum, if it has a single furling line. When the sail is unfurled, there will be many furling line wraps around the drum With appearance that drum is nearly full.

It us actually fully pulled out. There's 3 wraps on the drum and a knot keeping it that way.

 

[BigEasy]

It us actually fully pulled out. There's 3 wraps on the drum and a knot keeping it that way.

With sail fully pulled out, there should be much more than three wraps on drum (if it is a single line reefing system). Somehow you’ve got a “rats nest” tangle there. I would get a sharp knife and cut all of that chafed line off the drum to evaluate what’s going on. You may have to remove the headsail or wrap it manually until you figure it out and get another furling line installed. Again if all fails, call a rigger and watch what he does to repair & get him to explain operation of the furler.

 

[Kraffert]

I cannot get the drum apart to remove the old line.

I've already purchased the new line.

I'm trying to figure out how to get it apart so I can remove the 3 wraps, the knot used to keep the wraps and the knot that holds the line on the drum.

I'm trying to see if anyone knows how to get that housing apart so I can get all the old line out of the boat and replace with fresh, new line.

 

[BigEasy]

As I mentioned, cut the line off the drum. Then you may be able to see where the knot that attaches the furling line is located. Also be sure to note how the line wraps around the drum; clockwise vs counter-clockwise. If you install the new line incorrectly, the furler will not work. I have a newer Profurl model. There is a slot in the drum that permits you to push the knotted line thru the slot to extent that knot can be untied or cut without disassembly of the drum. But, my furler does not resemble yours. Good luck.

 

[colemj]

That is not a Profurl. I think it is an old Hood furler. The line shouldn't be wrapped and knotted like that. Cut the knot, remove the line, and it should be obvious how a new line attaches. Either a hole in the drum axis, or a hole on the top or bottom of drum that you don't see with the cover on, or a clamping mechanism.

Mark