HUNTER 320 ENGINE ROOM.

[skipperclaud]

Dear friends, I am the happy owner of a Hunter 320, 2001, the Dua Jazz, this boat is all refit, as bells and whistles brand new. But the engine. still original,
I was inspecting and cleaning the engine room which I decided to repaint it and preventively change the Yanmar 2GM20 mounts when I saw that the connection between the axle and the Gearbox is weirdly low and the former owner or the factory cut the fibreglass to allow the wheel to spin without touching the floor. Have you guys seen something like this before? Of course, I will make it looks new but how does it come from the factory? Can someone help me out?
Please look at the pictures.
thank you in advance.
Claudio

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Wrong or collapsed rear engine mounts?

 

[skipperclaud]

Wrong or collapsed rear engine mounts?

Doesn't look like collapsed.
thank you

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Doesn't look like collapsed.
thank you

Mount design specs include dimensions - measure them and get back to us.

 

[skipperclaud]

Mount design specs include dimensions - measure them and get back to us.

I will!!!

 

[31seahorse]

Hello skipperclaud,

Is there an Allen set screw in the threaded hole in the connection to the prop shaft? (pic #2) There should be some type of fastener, I think. One is visible in the first picture. Also, a stainless steel wire should go through a hole drilled in the square top of that fastener to prevent it from backing out. (Been there, had that happen!) There appears to be a thin wire through one of the bolts in the flange (correct name?) to the transmission itself. Not clear how or to what it is connected.

All of that can be checked and fastened correctly when the other work is done and the engine aligned with the shaft and hull tube.

 

[higgs]

It seems to me that if the rear engine mounts had collapsed, the shaft would be way out of alignment and that would result in a lot of vibration under power. Perhaps that is going on. If the shaft is properly aligned then there is a problem with the construction of the boat. Time to bring in a surveyor.

 

[Richard19068]

Repower with an engine / transmission that didn't really fit?

 

[garymalmgren]

Hunter 320, 2001

Contact Hunter and find out what engine was originally fitted.
I think you will find ( as Richard 19068 has suggested) this is a re-power engine.
Maybe the prop shaft (axle) was shortened to fit the engine on the bed.
I small notch removed from that rib wouldn't worry me.

gary

 

[JamesG161]

I small notch removed from that rib wouldn't worry me.

It would worry me.
It is a structural beam and I think i see the wood exposed.
But waiting to see what happens next.
Jim...

PS: Engine was Yanmar 18 HP on the first H320

 

[Marmalade]

Don’t know the factory condition, but my guess is that there was probably a nicely molded “notch” or relief in the original manufacturing, to allow clearance to the hub.

When previous owner installed dripless seal, they made the notch bigger to get to the bolts/hub removal clearance... in a very crude way. Probably when the safety wire was cut and the 2nd set-screw was left-out... seems like a pattern of short-cuts

 

[dlochner]

While you're working on the shaft, there should be a second collar on the shaft after the seal. If the SS collar should slip, water will enter quickly and at a rate exceeding the bilge pumps capacity.

Given the tight clearances it will probably be easier to use a split collar.

McMaster-Carr

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If you haven't read the instructions for the PYI Shaft Seal, do read it before messing with the seal. Do not reuse the set screws. They can be purchased from PYI or at McMaster. The seal is more than 7 years old. They no longer make the one you have. PYI's recommends bellows replacement every 7 years.

PSS Seal | PSS Type A Shaft Seal

The PSS Type A Shaft Seal is a mechanical seal for 3/4 inch to 3-3/4 inch (20mm to 95mm) shafts.

www.shaftseal.com

 

[Art12050]

Something is definitely screwy. I have the exact same setup on my 1992 Hunter 30, including a new PYI drip less. No notching was require, or was it molded into the hull at the factory. The fiberglass that was notched is the back part of the engine bilge. As mentioned, if the motor mounts have failed or the wrong size installed, the prop shaft would be binding at the stern tube or coupling.
Someone mentioned repowering, that may be the culprit.

 

[kloudie1]

Without better info, I think I see the prop shaft not centered (too low) in the stern tube, a pretty big alignment issue..

 

[DayDreamer41]

I sure hope that the OP responds with an update as to how this mystery notch came to light.

 

[JamesG161]

That PYI bellows looks crushed too, if it is a PYI.
Jim...

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

This is what you should have, as shown on our 1999 H-310 with a Yanmar 2GM20F.

For some reason, and only the PO knows this one, the Yanmar was pushed back several inches and the only way the shaft coupling could be accommodated was to smash out the containment lip for the pan under the packing gland. There is no way the boat came from the factory looking like this.

The lip has no structural function so you're safe there.

If this is a DIY project, start by separating the coupling to see how the alignment is. Check the engine mounting stringers to see if the engine is about to fall off the back end. Maybe an original set of holes which are more forward.

This is one of the most interesting scenarios I have seen come through this site for quite some time. Please be sure to keep us updated on what you find.

 

[DayDreamer41]

@Ralph Johnstone is that an inline blower to evacuate the engine room? nice looking install and a very clean engine and seal basins, nice job!

 

[Richard19068]

View attachment 190818

For some reason,... the Yanmar was pushed back several inches and the only way the shaft coupling could be accommodated was to smash out the containment lip for the pan under the packing gland.

Check the engine mounting stringers to see if the engine is about to fall off the back end. Maybe an original set of holes which are more forward.

That's a great hypothesis.

 

[dlochner]

This is what you should have, as shown on our 1999 H-310 with a Yanmar 2GM20F.

View attachment 190818

For some reason, and only the PO knows this one, the Yanmar was pushed back several inches and the only way the shaft coupling could be accommodated was to smash out the containment lip for the pan under the packing gland. There is no way the boat came from the factory looking like this.

The lip has no structural function so you're safe there.

If this is a DIY project, start by separating the coupling to see how the alignment is. Check the engine mounting stringers to see if the engine is about to fall off the back end. Maybe an original set of holes which are more forward.

This is one of the most interesting scenarios I have seen come through this site for quite some time. Please be sure to keep us updated on what you find.

If the engine was moved back then the prop should be further away from the strut by the same amount, unless the shaft was cut. It may also account for what appears to be excessive compression on the Shaft seal noted by @JamesG161.

The distance between the prop hub and the aft end of the strut should be about 1 shaft diameter. Should be easy to check.

Clearly this is some PO's or some incompetent boatyard's doing. Let's all try to not be "that guy."