Single line reefing installed

Oct 28, 2013
678
Hunter 20 Lake Monroe
And I love it! I had read about the pros and cons to single line versus double line and the other options but in the end I chose to go with a single line set up. Being a smaller boat, 20 foot, we reef a lot. We did not have a good set up to do it prior so I came up with my own set up that worked but I am sure was far from correct. I used a extra long out haul, that I ran in a fashion I cannot even really describe to secure the first reef grommet on the clew. On the tack I had a short loop of line I would pull down and run the tack pin through on the boom after removing the sail slug so I could drop two slugs down below it. It was not easy nor quick, and doing it on the water was a real PIA.
I finally had enough and knew there had to be a better way. First step was to make a set of mast gates. Not hard, not easy, but after 4 hours of bending 1/8" aluminum plate I had a pair that worked and looked pretty good.
I ordered the parts I needed that I could not get locally. I went with two Harken mirco cheek blocks, a stainless padeye, and 4" cleat from West Marine. I picked up 35' of line and was ready to make it happen.
With Cindy at her Bachelorette party this weekend I got up early yesterday morning and headed to the lake hoping to get there before the wind picked up. I figured it would be easiest to do the install with the main sail up. Installation was straight forward. I did not have any of the stainless pop rivets so I drilled and tapped all the holes. I guess it might have take me 30 mins but I doubt it.
On my first attempt I could see the problem with the single line set up that others spoke up. It does tension the tack first. That is just due to how the line runs and by nature it is going to take up the slack at the tack grommet first. It took me all of about 10 seconds to figure out how to fix it. I just reached under the boom and grabbed the reef line and pulled the slack at the clew out then re tensioned the reef line at the cleat. In less than 30 seconds the sail was reefed and I was smiling. The shape of the sail was much better than it ever was the old way I used to do it. Shaking out the reef was as easy as undoing the cleated reef line and hoisting the main halyard back up. Again, 30 seconds tops. My smile got bigger!
At least for us, at the end of the day it boils down to making things as simple as possible that serve our needs. This is a super simple set up that will make reefing much easier and safer for us. We all know that the easier a task is the more likely we are to do it. I am considering adding the same set up to our second reef point. Ok, consideration over, I am adding it LOL! While we don't use it that much I am sure if it is a simple as the first one to use we use it more as reefing the second point was even a bigger PIA than the first reef point was.
Here are some pics of what I did. Here is the pad eye.
pad eye.jpg


I put it behind the sail a bit so it would not interfere with the sail but still pull in a more downward direction. Between the padeye being there and the cheek block all the way aft on the boom the clew gets pulled down and back making for a very nice tension on the main.
This is the aft cheek block
Clew cheek block.jpg


Pretty straight forward. The only thing that bugged me a bit was the slack that gets in the reef line mid boom between the aft and front cheek block but I adjusted the stopper knot on the ree line at the cleat and it was tolerable after that.
Here if the clew cheek block.
tack cheek block.jpg

I put it as far forward as possible so the line would pull straight down on the tack grommet. Then the cleat is even further forward on the mast so the pull is straight down even a bit forward overall. I should have made sure the slug forward of the grommet was all the way down.
If your thinking the boom looks like it is rotated a bit that would be because the mainsheet it loose and our topping lift attaches on the port side of the boom cause it to twist a bit in that set up. Once you sheet the main it goes away.
Finally here is the reef line cleat.
cleat.jpg


Probably not the best pic but the sun was shining at my phone and I was just glad it wound up in the frame. The one thing I have left to do is to mark the main halyard for where it needs to be on the cleat so I can just lower it to that point then cleat it off, then just tension the reef line and away we go. I know I should have cleated the main off on the top horn of the cleat so the line was hanging down but it was hot as a fire cracker already and this was just for demonstration purposes.
So for less than 50 bucks we are going to be able to reef much easier, quicker, and safer. Our lines are not ran back to the cockpit but you could easy set this up to run back. I guess you could even run it internally in the boom but that would prevent me from being able to tension the clew so easily.
Yes it adds a step or two to our normal operations but seeing how much we reef I feel they are worth it. As far as when we go to take the mast down if we are going to sail again somewhere soon I would just remove the stopper knot and wrap the reefing line up in the main sail as we wrap it around the boom. Even if you take it all the way off it is super simple to re run the line.
We did get to sail yesterday afternoon after Cindy got home(two round trips to the lake in one day, 4 hours on the road, and worth every minute of it). We had a nice breeze but not enough to require us to reef. But just out of curiosity we did heave too so I could reef and see how it was going to work on the water. Other than realizing it would have been easier to have done it from a starboard tack instead of port, and that I really need to mark the main halyard asap so I can just lower it and cleat it off first it worked great. Even with holding both lines I was done in about a minute and off we went. We heaved too again, this time on a starboard tack so I did not have the headsail in my way and I shook out the reef. Again, much easier and we were soon back on our way. At the end of the day I felt like it was all time well spent and I can see this new modification getting a lot of use in the future.

Sam



Other than making the mast gates this was a super simple project. Like our friends with the Hunter 23 say, it is the simple things. He is right, as I get more enjoyment out of the simple little things that make sailing easier and more fun.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
We need a new icon that says "Nomenclature Alert!" . Sam, that is an "eye strap", not a "pad eye".
 
Oct 28, 2013
678
Hunter 20 Lake Monroe
If we had a "Nomenclature Alert" that is all the mail I would ever get Ron LOL! My sailing vocabulary is probably at a 3rd grade reading level if you know what I mean. It takes me a long to find what I need or want usually because I have no clue what it is call. I have seen them called either way, but my bill said I got one package of stainless pad eyes.

http://www.e-rigging.com/three-sixt...e-heavy-duty?gclid=CL6ayJjots0CFQ6maQodL9wDIg

But then Amazon called them stainless eye straps.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BO9UDI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sam
 
Aug 15, 2012
301
Precision 21 Newburyport MA
Why did you put your pad eye and cheek block so far back on the boom? The pad eye and cheek block should line up vertically with the reefing eye.You want the force to bring the sail down to the boom not out to end of the boom when you pull the reefing line. On the Precision they add a reefing hook for the cringle. Here is a diagram from the book "The New Trailer Sailer Guide to the Precision 18" by Tom Scott.
 

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Oct 28, 2013
678
Hunter 20 Lake Monroe
Tom,
I actually did quite a bit of research on the topic before I dove in on this. From what I put together the "ideal" set up was to have the reef line pulling down and back on the clew grommet to get the best sail geometry when reefed. This set up basically duplicates what our foot slug and outhaul does when you tension it. The slug keeps the clew down while the outhaul pulls the clew back. The way I used to reef the clew just pulled back at a flat angle and it would not get the clew down as low to the boom as this set up does. I saw were one sail maker suggested tying another line around the boom through the clew grommet to pull the clew down so I was able to combine both actions by putting the pad eye where it is and the block where it is located.
Just like with most things pertaining to sailboats you will see all sorts of setups. I am not saying what I did is "100% correct" but I followed the information I found and it sure works better than the old setup. In hind sight I could have moved the pad eye/eye strap a few inches closer to the sail but I am fin with where it wound up. I will just say I was allowing for "sail stretch" if anyone ask me about it LOL! It needed to be a bit behind the leach edge of the sail when it was reefed to be clear of the sail.

Sam
 
Aug 15, 2012
301
Precision 21 Newburyport MA
Sounds good, there are more than one way to set up reefing, as long as it works that is the most important thing. You've already tried it but the only other recommendation is to practice doing it while under way. The first time I had to do it while sailing I had some problems that I've since resolved.
 
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Apr 19, 2012
1,043
O'Day Daysailor 17 Nevis MN
Sounds good, there are more than one way to set up reefing, as long as it works that is the most important thing. You've already tried it but the only other recommendation is to practice doing it while under way. The first time I had to do it while sailing I had some problems that I've since resolved.
I totally agree. In fact, before you practice under way, practice reefing and shaking it out in your driveway a few times.
 
Dec 23, 2008
771
Catalina 22 Central Penna.
I agree with “Tom G P-21” you placed the cheek block to far back on the boom to really help pull the sail all of the way down to the boom. You have created the same problem I see with newer boats that have the reefing line run to the back end of the boom so the line is hidden in the boom and exits closer to the mast for a cleaner looking setup, but the sail still can not be pulled all the way down to the boom.

Try this; untie the other end of the line after it goes through the reefing grommet and attached on the other side of the boom from the cheek turning block. Take this line down under the boom and bring back up from under the boom and tie a slip knot or bowline knot to the the reef line leading up from the cheek turning block to the sail grommet. As the reef line is pulled this loop of line down around the boom and tied to the reef line before entering the grommet will become a noose around the sail leech and get tighter and tighter as you pull the reef line, thus pulling the sail area with the grommet down to the very top of the boom.

If you look up in boom reefing lines you will see illustrations and photos like the ones attached with a bowline knot on the other end of the reef line attached to the boom, this is what you already have,
reefing.jpeg
Update-Reefing-boom.jpg
the end attached to the boom, THIS KNOT MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE OTHER PART OF THE REEF LINE not to itself to be very effective.
 
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Oct 28, 2013
678
Hunter 20 Lake Monroe
Watercolors, I understand and agree with you about the reefing lines that run around the pulley installed in the aft end of the boom. That setup pulls in one direction only. What I did essentially does what you suggest by having the pad eye/eye strap aligned near vertically below the reef grommet. One line is now pulling in two direction, downward on the starboard side, and aft on the port side. The only real difference I see in my set up what is pictured above is that the lines in the pic above are directly below the reef grommet where as I set mine back a bit just because I did not want the line to be in the way of the sail when I flaked it while reefed. Personal preference on my part. The line still pulls down and back.
Like I said in my first post, it probably is not 100% correct, and I probably could have, should have, tensioned the reef line from the tack a bit more before I took the pics. It will bring the grommet down to the boom with just a bit more tension. I knew there were compromises to the single line system over a dual line or a clew line a horn on the boom for the tack grommet when I chose to go this way. My objective was to make it as quick and simple to reef the sail as I could knowing that the easier I made it the more like I would do it earlier than waiting till I had to all the while hoping I wouldn't have to because it was a PIA to reef the old way.
I wish I could find the post where a member posted his set up and he was chastised for not placing the cheek block all the way to the aft end of the boom. While it probably does not need to go that far back in my case, it definitely places the pull on the port side of the boom towards the aft end of the boom. Plus I was leaving room in front of that cheek block for another cheek block in case I wanted to set up the second reef point the same way, which I will be doing.
In the end there is no set procedure for doing this. You will see all sorts of setups. I just wanted to share what I did as know how much I have learned and gotten ideas from seeing and reading about what others have done.


Sam
 
Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
Nice work - and beautiful pictures. I wish more people would document their upgrades and projects as well as you have for future sailors to learn from. I don't want to enter into the "how far back" debate, but my boat is setup to pull both down and aft (about 45 degrees when fully reefed) and I like it that way because it takes the belly out of the sail in heavier air, when you need the least force.

One improvement that I have and suggest you try is adding a swivel block to the reefing cringle both forward and on the leach. I found that this really reduces the friction of pulling a small line through the sail grommet. MY mistake is that I did not use the swivel, so have to be careful on aligning the sail and reefing line at each setup. It will add an inch or two to your reef, but that does not matter very much.
 
Aug 15, 2012
301
Precision 21 Newburyport MA
Just an update. I went out to my boat to check the reefing system. I found my pad eye and cheek block located about 2-3 inches behind the reefing eye in the sail. Similar in location where you installed your pad eye. So it is able to pull down and keep tension. Since it came installed on the boat I hadn't taken that close of a look at the geometry.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Watercolors is 100% correct here... the picture/method he shows is the ideal way to run an aft reefing line. Its done this way on all high performance boats.

This allows the reefing line to perform two important tasks independently:
1) Pull the clew down VERY CLOSE & TIGHT to the boom
2) Pull the clew back to flatten the foot.

A fixed position attach point, even one placed 'ideally' will never do this as well. Not only that, it is many times stronger than a simple fixed eye.

Its one of the unheralded advantages of a loose footed main.
 
Oct 28, 2013
678
Hunter 20 Lake Monroe
Parsons,
Thanks. I actually considered the swivel blocks but with our small sail the line seems to slide through pretty easy. I will keep it in mind though. I reefed last night but like most of our afternoon sails we reefed in the slip then shook it out as the wind died down. Even still it was a much quicker and easier event than it ever was prior to the single line install.
I found a double stacked cheek block yesterday that I ordered. I will remove my single cheek block I installed on the front of the boom and replace it with this double and then move that single block to the back of the boom and install the single line reefing for the second reef point. This will keep the reef line as far forward on the tack as possible and give the best downward pull on the sail.

Tom,
Thanks for checking out the pad eye position on your boat. I was looking at our pad eye last night and there is room between the sail and the pad eye to install another pad eye for the single line reefing for the second reef point without having it interfere with the sail when it is reefed so that is what I am going to do. I will then place the second reef line cheek block just in front of the rear cheek block on the starboard side of the boom. I guess I could have replaced that single block with another stacked block but this will keep the line closer to the boom. Ok, I was too cheap to buy another double LOL.

Sam
 
Oct 28, 2013
678
Hunter 20 Lake Monroe
Jackdaw,
I agree that is a better way to do the reef on a high performance boat. We are about as high performance as a Smart car. I do have a plan to install a safety line around the boom through the reef grommet if we get in a real blow. My setup, that I copied from other boats, was an attempt to blend performance, safety, and convenience into one set up. I checked last night the only way I could get the grommet any closer to the boom was to remove the reefed sail from under it, then it went right down to the boom. The sail tends to fold under the grommet and between the boom as it comes down. The clew was pulled back tight and foot of the sail had good tension. I agree the pad eye is the weak link in the system. But they, North Sails off the top of my head, suggest a safety line around the boom with the reefing setup like Watercolors has pictured, unless you have a carbon fiber boom. Not sure what they suggest in that case and I will probably never need to know. Don't see any fiber in our future.

Sam
 

weinie

.
Sep 6, 2010
1,297
Jeanneau 349 port washington, ny
One improvement on watercolors setup:
You can lash small blocks or even 'frictionless rings' (by antal for example) in lieu of using the cringles.
 
May 31, 2004
858
Catalina 28 Branford
Reefingline1.jpg Reefingline2.jpg I went with an even simpler one line set up for my Oday 23. I affix the aft end of the reefing line to the boom with a bowline, then run it straight up through the aft reefing cringle, then down the other side of the sail to a cheek block on the side of the boom. The line runs forward from there to another cheek block on the forward end of the boom, directly below the forward reefing point. Instead of a cringle, my sailmaker affixed a steel ring to the sail via a strap. I affixed a small block to the ring, and the reefing line runs up from the forward cheek block, through the small block, then down to a cleat on the boom.

I lower the halyard, pull on the reefing line, and the aft and forward sections of the sail are pulled down to the boom in one big slab. I intend to put a ram's horn or something like it on the side of the boom at some point, but this works fine for now.
 
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Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Jackdaw,
I agree that is a better way to do the reef on a high performance boat. We are about as high performance as a Smart car. I do have a plan to install a safety line around the boom through the reef grommet if we get in a real blow. My setup, that I copied from other boats, was an attempt to blend performance, safety, and convenience into one set up. I checked last night the only way I could get the grommet any closer to the boom was to remove the reefed sail from under it, then it went right down to the boom. The sail tends to fold under the grommet and between the boom as it comes down. The clew was pulled back tight and foot of the sail had good tension. I agree the pad eye is the weak link in the system. But they, North Sails off the top of my head, suggest a safety line around the boom with the reefing setup like Watercolors has pictured, unless you have a carbon fiber boom. Not sure what they suggest in that case and I will probably never need to know. Don't see any fiber in our future.

Sam
Hey Sam,
I'll be more clear. The technique of looping the aft reefing line around the boom is not just a 'high performance' trick, it is the BEST way to set up an aft reefing line on any boat with a loose footed main. Full stop.

If you don't want to fine, your boat. But in the context of this being a learning site, its important that others know the difference, even if its not important to you. I agree on a C22 sailed on a lake the difference is probably small, but that does not change the overall point.
 
Oct 28, 2013
678
Hunter 20 Lake Monroe
Jackdaw,
I knew what you meant. No issues. I chose to go this route after looking at the options I could find. I saw several factory setups very similar to what I did and used those as a basis for mine. I also knew single line reefing is was not the perfect setup. So far it has worked very well for our application. I will keep an eye on the setup and report any issues I have or find with it.

Sam
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Sam,
All good! And I have to admit, I LOVE the look of a well cared for small boat!

One further thought; most of the so-called 'factory setups' you probably have seen were designed before the advent of the loose footed main in everyday small boats. Any smallish boat designed before say 2000 would have had hardware like you describe to facilitate reefing with a captive foot mainsail. Now small boats COME with loose footed mains, and the owner's manual tells you to tie the reefing line to the boom. Less hardware, less weight, less complication, better performance. Q.E.D.
 
Feb 15, 2014
180
Catalina 30 Bremerton, WA
fly:

Thanks for posting your pix. On our
boat, we pull up the topping lift and
slack the main halyard, then pull and cleat
the reefing line which then easily snugs
everything. Then tighten the main halyard
and let out the topping lift.