East coast is done, Bahamas here we come

Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
So Smitty has now been in every state on the eastern seaboard. Maine to Florida. She was perfect for the ICW. We had no mast height issues and our 5 foot draft gave us more available anchorages then some of our friends.

The ICW proved to be more motoring than anything. In fact we only sailed 9 of the 51 days we took to travel the 1,852 nautical miles we have covered since leaving Massachusetts. Sailing on the ICW can be dicey. Often you are crossing large sounds but only a 30-50 foot wide channel has been dredged deeper than 3 feet. And there is a lot of shoaling areas. If you had a sail up and hit one of these shoals it could be a pit of a disaster for your boat. We know a couple of people that have had this misfortune and most had to be hauled for repairs following the grounding. But the engine on our boat is well sized and we had no problem averaging slightly over 5 knots every day despite some strong currents. And reasonably efficient. We used 292.5 gallons of diesel to this point in our trip.

The ICW has been fun and we have gotten to visit a lot of places we would have passed by going offshore. For instance Charleston, NC, Cumberland Island, GA and St. Augustine, FL are places that a lot of our cruising friends have skipped by going offshore that we loved and made the whole trip worth it. We did get bored at times, especially when it was day after day of motoring through swamps and canals. Some of the Florida sections have been frustrating with the amount of bridges you need to get open with timed openings only. But we have been able to keep up speed enough to make the timing on almost all while some of the other cruisers we have seen with boats in the 35 foot and less range couldn't keep up. We won't do the whole ICW again but may very well do parts of it.

We did run aground 3 times, in Sandy Hook, NJ, Deltaville, VA and Fort Pierce, FL. Sandy Hook was a sand shoal that had proceeded out into the anchorage about 20 feet more than shown on charts and wasn't reported on Active Captain until we put it up there. We saw 3 boats besides ourselves hit the same shoal on the same day, some despite us hailing them on the VHF to give them the heads up. In Deltaville it was just some mud in an anchorage. Both times we were going slow as we approach the anchorage and were able to back off with little effort.

In Fort Pierce it was a different story. We were going slow looking at an anchorage. Typically I check our Navionics Sonar charts, the NOAA charts from Navionics and our paper charts in choosing an anchorage. In this case we switch anchorages at the last minute due to a strong north wind and I only looked at the Navionics Sonar as we approached the anchorage. While the Sonar charts showed plenty of water, the others didn't and we went from 8 feet of water to less than 5 feet is less than 10 linear feet. The 20 knot winds we were trying to hide from ended up pushing us up further, even without any sails up, and turned us sideways on the shoal. When I tried to back off I felt that the rudder was dug in. We were able to kedge off with our anchor. My Bride came up with the smart plan to move weight forward to get the rudder further up out of the sand/mud so we didn't drag it through and damage the rudder. We got off, checked the rudder and continued on our way. We did check the rudder and keel during a haul out 3 days later for bottom painting and all is fine.

I don't blame Navionics for the incorrect information on the charts. We have used Navionics on our iPad as our primary electronic navigation for the entire trip. We have found that Navionics Sonar is more accurate than the NOAA electronic or paper charts. But both can be inaccurate at times and it is a little weird some of the patterns we have noticed. For instance Navionics Sonar is more accurate in Florida, Chesapeake and Delaware. But NOAA has been more accurate in the Carolinas. Neither was particularly good in Georgia.

We have messed around with amount of anchor chain a lot. We started with 20 feet of chain. After experiencing a keel wrap on a night I was lazy and didn't put out the kettle I added 40 more feet I got from a consignment shop. Recently I just added 90 feet more I got from another cruiser. Ideally I think the right amount is 125 feet of chain with at least 100 feet of nylon behind it. In most anchorages we are putting out less than 90 feet but there are some 15-20 foot deep anchorages where more chain is useful. Even with the 150 feet of chain on my primary anchor and the 30 feet on my secondary anchor plus both anchors in the locker or on the bow we are not too heavy in the bow. I way over thought the weight concern.

Our Manson Supreme has been rock solid. We have only dragged twice on the entire ICW and we anchored a lot. Both drags were in fairly narrow rivers that were deep in the middle and had a strong current. We couldn't put out enough scope due to the narrow river. Our scope was less than 5 to 1 on both occasions, even less than 4 to 1 once. Our Drag Queen alarm alerted us both times and we were able to reset the anchor and go back to bed. We have waited out storms with winds as high as 60 knots on anchor. The only time we got worried was going through a tornado warning in West Palm, gust to 40 knots but we were actively watching for a tornado to form right in front of our boat. Grateful it didn't.

We no sit anchored in No Name Harbor on Key Biscayne. We are looking at a weather window on Sunday or Monday for our crossing of the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas. With some luck we will be in Bimini for Sunday night dinner.

Fair winds,

Jesse
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,050
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Ideally I think the right amount is 125 feet of chain with at least 100 feet of nylon behind it.
Smitty, you might have seen me post this in many of the boating forums I frequent, from a friend who sailed from Vancouver, BC to Mexico on his C34:

...with 100ft of chain. The rest of the world can debate all they like. When I pull into a place like Bodega Bay at midnight and the fog is so thick I can't see the jetty 50 feet away to make an entrance, I drop my hook in the rolling ocean swells with the surf crashing (Foster says it's like staying in a cheap Best Western beside the highway), and I sleep. And in the morning I have a windlass to pull the beast up and I wouldn't trade it for anything. (I also wouldn't add more chain - this works perfectly in 25 to 30 feet of water - you let all the chain out and you tie off nylon at the preferred scope and don't bother with snubbers and chain hooks and all that stuff...)

This was our best upgrade.

Have a safe trip over. Thanks for keeping us posted.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
Smitty, you might have seen me post this in many of the boating forums I frequent, from a friend who sailed from Vancouver, BC to Mexico on his C34:

...with 100ft of chain. The rest of the world can debate all they like. When I pull into a place like Bodega Bay at midnight and the fog is so thick I can't see the jetty 50 feet away to make an entrance, I drop my hook in the rolling ocean swells with the surf crashing (Foster says it's like staying in a cheap Best Western beside the highway), and I sleep. And in the morning I have a windlass to pull the beast up and I wouldn't trade it for anything. (I also wouldn't add more chain - this works perfectly in 25 to 30 feet of water - you let all the chain out and you tie off nylon at the preferred scope and don't bother with snubbers and chain hooks and all that stuff...)

This was our best upgrade.

Have a safe trip over. Thanks for keeping us posted.
We got a Mantus chain hook in Annapolis for s good price, $25. It is great to lock of the chain. Really easy to use and holds well. This lets us put a bridal on which we really need because the C310 seems to swing more than other boats at anchor.

Thanks for the info.
 
Nov 26, 2008
1,970
Endeavour 42 Cruisin
I hope you have Explorer Charts. We have seen several very bad errors of ommision in Navionics Bahamas coverage. Explorer is the way to go in the Bahamas.

The Mantus chain hook is outstanding. Do you have the plastic keeper? Early editions did not. My testing and reporting of occasional slipping off got them to design a plastic keeper that attaches to the shank and guarantees it will never slip off the chain. They will provide one if you dont have it.

LOTS of heavy winds this winter, hope you have a good window. Looks kinda iffy to me. Harder yet will be trying to leave Bimini east across the banks. Hopefully there will be a change in this pattern.
 
May 24, 2004
7,174
CC 30 South Florida
Not the time of the year to be crossing over. By any means avoid any winds with a Northerly component as it will oppose the Gulf Stream current and create some high chopping waves. Check the projected strength of the current and how far the force at its fringes extends to. This will determine how much northerly drift you need to compensate for and give you an idea of the crossing time. In any instance you want to arrive at your destination with adequate daylight to find your way into port. We usually leave Florida before dawn.
 
Jan 14, 2014
225
Newport Newport 28 Fair Haven, NY
Great read, and I certainly thank you for the play by play for the ICW - a trip I'm aiming for in another couple years. I love reading first-hand accounts!
 

Tom J

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Sep 30, 2008
2,325
Catalina 310 Quincy, MA
We got a Mantus chain hook in Annapolis for s good price, $25. It is great to lock of the chain. Really easy to use and holds well. This lets us put a bridal on which we really need because the C310 seems to swing more than other boats at anchor.

Thanks for the info.
The 310 does seem to swing quite a bit. We have used a riding sail at times, with good results. I've also found that running the nylon snubbers from the bow cleats, over the bow roller and to the chain seems to cut down on the swinging quite a bit.
See if you can obtain some local knowledge about the entrance to North Bimini before you leave Florida. I've made several trips there on a research boat, and the marks for the harbor entrance were different every time. The first time, we lined up with a tree branch someone had stuck on the beach of South Bimini, then turned north 100' off shore and followed the coast to the North Bimini entrance. The second time there was a red bouy marking the entrance. The third time, the red bouy was on a shoal, and the entrance was 100' to the south of the bouy.
Have a safe trip, and enjoy Alicetown. Best conch fritters ever!
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
I hope you have Explorer Charts. We have seen several very bad errors of ommision in Navionics Bahamas coverage. Explorer is the way to go in the Bahamas.

The Mantus chain hook is outstanding. Do you have the plastic keeper? Early editions did not. My testing and reporting of occasional slipping off got them to design a plastic keeper that attaches to the shank and guarantees it will never slip off the chain. They will provide one if you dont have it.

LOTS of heavy winds this winter, hope you have a good window. Looks kinda iffy to me. Harder yet will be trying to leave Bimini east across the banks. Hopefully there will be a change in this pattern.
We do have the Explorer Charts and our Mantus hook has the plastic retainer clip.

Our window was ok. And I get what you mean about leaving Bimini. We had hoped to leave today but it looks more like Thursday.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
I hope you have Explorer Charts. We have seen several very bad errors of ommision in Navionics Bahamas coverage. Explorer is the way to go in the Bahamas.

The Mantus chain hook is outstanding. Do you have the plastic keeper? Early editions did not. My testing and reporting of occasional slipping off got them to design a plastic keeper that attaches to the shank and guarantees it will never slip off the chain. They will provide one if you dont have it.

LOTS of heavy winds this winter, hope you have a good window. Looks kinda iffy to me. Harder yet will be trying to leave Bimini east across the banks. Hopefully there will be a change in this pattern.
We do have the Explorer Charts and our Mantus hook has the plastic retainer clip.

Our window was ok. And I get what you mean about leaving Bimini. We had hoped to leave today but it looks more like Thursday.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
Not the time of the year to be crossing over. By any means avoid any winds with a Northerly component as it will oppose the Gulf Stream current and create some high chopping waves. Check the projected strength of the current and how far the force at its fringes extends to. This will determine how much northerly drift you need to compensate for and give you an idea of the crossing time. In any instance you want to arrive at your destination with adequate daylight to find your way into port. We usually leave Florida before dawn.
Yeah, even Chris Parker was struggling to get an accurate forecast. We left at midnight as he had predicted that winds and seas would be best overnight at less than 5 knots of ESE winds. He was wrong. We saw 10-18 knots of ESE winds the whole trip. And instead of calm seas less than 2 feet we had 4 foot seas for most of it with some 6+ foot seas in the middle of the stream. For those that haven't crossed, if I heard 6 foot seas I would think no big deal its 6 foot swell like you get off the coast in Jersey or New England. It was more like the 6 foot chop you can get in Buzzards Bay or Long Island Sound. That was real surprising to me since you are in thousands of feet of water.

Doing on a Sunday night added lots of cruise ships. We passed 15 of them. Two of the boats in our group had AIS so we could hail them easy and they altered course to avoid us. Same result with the American based cargo ships we passed. The foreign cargo ships were a different story and we had to alter course to avoid them even if we were supposed to be the stand on vessels. AIS seems to be a really useful tool and we might add one down the line. I would recommend it to anyone thinking of cruising the Bahamas or beyond.

It took us just under 9 hours for the crossing. We took a heading of 145 degrees mag for about two and a half hours after clearing the flats into the Florida Straight. We were doing about 5 knots at 2000 RPMs. About 1/3 of the way through the stream we changed course to 115 degrees mag. We pickup speed to about 6.8 knots without altering the RPMs. We held that course until we were about 10 miles outside of Bimini. This was just about sunrise. We then just aimed right at the North Bimini harbor entrance. This is the classic S-curve approach that is explained well in the front of the Explorer Charts. We caught up to three faster boats (Morgan 38 with an oversized motor, Caliber 40 and Pearson 36) that had left at the same time but just stayed on a course of 115 degrees mag from the time they left the flats. So I think this approach was a good one.

The Bimini entrance was well marked this time. Navionics was also dead on for the depths and channel location. I did put the way points in the Explorer Charts as marks so I had that info to help me too.

Now we are stuck at Bimini Blue Water Resort waiting out some weather that has the bank stirred up. Hopefully we will be in the Berries by Friday and really start exploring the Bahamas.

Fair winds,

Jesse
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
The 310 does seem to swing quite a bit. We have used a riding sail at times, with good results. I've also found that running the nylon snubbers from the bow cleats, over the bow roller and to the chain seems to cut down on the swinging quite a bit.
I want to try this but I need to add some washers or gasketing to the roller first. Right now there is too much lateral play in the roller so it knocks back and forth when I do this. Another project on this list.

But the conch is great! We had some cracked conch at the Big Game Club yesterday. Tonight we are headed to one of the shacks on the beach to have some conch fritters.
 

Joe A

.
Feb 4, 2008
117
Macgregor 26S Lake Wallenpaupack / EastCoast
I sure wish I was there. I like CJ's deli for anything from coffee and egg sandwiches in the morning, double cheeseburger and fries for lunch, lobster and more for dinner. Just take out or use picnic tables. It's right on the beach up the hill from the liquor store. Conch salad and a beer at Stuarts conch shack for sure. Bimini bread comes out at 2:30 I think, try to put an order in earlier in the day or you may miss out. It's up the street but I forget the name. Just ask the locals where the best bakery is. If you get it still warm it's heaven. Different flavor on different days - coconut is my favorite. Have a great trip.
 

KZW

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May 17, 2014
831
Catalina 310 #307 Bluewater Bay, FL
We got a Mantus chain hook in Annapolis for s good price, $25. It is great to lock of the chain. Really easy to use and holds well. This lets us put a bridal on which we really need because the C310 seems to swing more than other boats at anchor.

Thanks for the info.

Do you have a picture of your bridal arrangement?
 

Tom J

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Sep 30, 2008
2,325
Catalina 310 Quincy, MA
I agree with you about AIS. I've heard that most ships will answer if you call them by name, which AIS enables us to do. While at the helm of a research boat, AquaQuest, I tried many times to hail ships, but never received an answer. Sure would be nice to communicate with those guys during a 3AM watch. AIS is on my project list, also.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
Do you have a picture of your bridal arrangement?
The Mantus hook has a shackle on it. So right now it's just two nylon dock lines attached to the shackle. Nice and easy. Once I put some gasketing or something on either side of the roller so it doesn't clank back and forth I plan to reduce it to one line and run it over the roller as Tom recommended.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
I agree with you about AIS. I've heard that most ships will answer if you call them by name, which AIS enables us to do. While at the helm of a research boat, AquaQuest, I tried many times to hail ships, but never received an answer. Sure would be nice to communicate with those guys during a 3AM watch. AIS is on my project list, also.
Yeah, that has been my exact experience.

Defender has a VHF with AIS built in and a wireless RAM Mic. They had it on sale about six months ago for about $350. I wish I bought it then and installed it as a second VHF. I could have put a second antenna mounted on the stern rail or something. I didn't get it at the time because I was thinking instead of my current and I didn't like the 8 hour battery life on the RAM Mic. In hindsight I just should have installed it as a second. I have had a lot of instances that having a second VHF has been beneficial. I just use my handheld for that but this system would have been better and would give redundancy if we ever lost the mast head antenna. So this is now my plan once I get to the USVI.
 

Tom J

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Sep 30, 2008
2,325
Catalina 310 Quincy, MA
Sounds like a good plan, Jesse. I wasn't sure what to do about the antenna, and putting it on the stern rail would give it sufficient range for the AIS.
I never worried too much about the masthead antenna, until one day, I hit the Long Island bridge in Boston Harbor with it! As you know, the clearance there should have been 50', but the high tide that day was 12'. I sure won't miss that bridge, now that it is gone.