I bought a 1982 Catalina 30 and the teak in the cabin is very tired looking. The ladder as well. The wall separating the head from the salon shows marks from I guess a hanging compass no longer there. What's the best way to fix this up? Should I sand the wall divider? It seems pretty thin. I would rather not varnish unless that's the only choice. Applying teak oil? Sand and then oil?
Cabin refurbishment
- Thread starter rgj592015
- Start date
I will be interested in the same info. Now that fall is setting in I will have time to do mine and was wondering the same thing.
In terms of oil vs. varnish: I'd recommend you consider Formby's Tung Oil. It's a wiping varnish. I used it on my Catalina 30 and am now doing the interior teak on my Ericson 26 with it. I apply it with a rag, exactly as you would if you were using teak oil. You can get it in no gloss, low gloss, or high gloss. I'm using low gloss on mine and it gives a good result with minimal effort.
I learned awhile back never to use steel wool when sanding teak, but bronze wool. The steel wool will rust and stay imbedded in the teak. It looks like that bulkhead could easily be brought back as the "shadow" does not look bad at all. Its thick enough that the only way your going to harm it is by using a belt sander!! I always sand with fine bronze wool but make sure clean up is thorough. After sanding use a TACK RAG to remove any and all residual. The sticky rag will ensure all the loose and embedded stuff is removed. This is all you need before you apply, teak oil, varnish or whatever suits your fancy. Good Luck
Bob
'88 Mark II
Bob
'88 Mark II
Call me crazy but I'm in the middle of doing this project and I'm using West Marine WoodPro semi gloss. When we, the Mrs and I, were boat shopping last year we saw a '84 Cat 30 that had the entire interior varnished, real honest varnish. The wife fell in love with the look. So now I'm charged with replicating it. I found WoodPro easy to work with. I am cleaning the wood with bleach, water and elbow grease and yes, I have the hose inside the boat moving cushions etc. So far so good. Applying 4 coats over the old, cleaned finish. Time will tell......
Mine wasn't as faded as yours, but pretty dry and dull. I didn't sand, just scrubbed with Murphy's and a Scotchbrite pad.
You might want to stain it after cleaning, to even it up. On another boat, I used a mix of mahogany and oak color stain (Minwax) to get a good color match.
You might want to stain it after cleaning, to even it up. On another boat, I used a mix of mahogany and oak color stain (Minwax) to get a good color match.
I have an '86 Hunter 23, the interior hasn't been maintained and I need low odor/toxin ways to clean and freshen it up, if I am to do it myself.
I would love to have it varnished professionally but i can't imagine how much 7 coats of ephifames varnish would cost. Is it even reasonable to look into the possibility?
What would you all do? What is the end result of your projects?
I would love to have it varnished professionally but i can't imagine how much 7 coats of ephifames varnish would cost. Is it even reasonable to look into the possibility?
What would you all do? What is the end result of your projects?
what about a heat gun to remove old varnish? I want to redo my interior, but the thought of sanding everything down is a deterrent. Anyone recommend a heat gun?
Looks very nice, Kingjim.
In the photo I noticed you also have a sliding latch that sits at an angle on the compression post. Anyone know what that's for? I have one on my '82 and have no idea why it's there.
Bliz
Gotwind-
The latch holds the tabletop against the wall when you have it lifted up. If you have the original tabletop, there's a hole that accepts the latch pin.
in my boat, the galley/salon/vberth is mostly mahogany, but in the head the wood is all teak. its considered a "wet" head, as the shower gets everything wet if you shower in there, which we have only done once, but from others who have used the shower in the past, the teak was, as you said, very tired looking, old and water stained.
after oiling it several times with very little results, I wasnt sure what I was going to do about it.... but then last october i tried lemon pledge, in the spray can.
it is formulated so that it will cling to a vertical surface better than any "liquid" oils will, so I bought a can and sprayed it on... and did NOT wipe it off or try to smooth it out.... i let it set til the next week when i returned to the boat....
when we returnd to the boat the next friday, the oil was gone, the stains were gone, and the wood was a rich brown color. I had found the answer and the problem was solved.
so i thought if one good dose was great, two would be perfect, so I gave it another treatment when I left again... there was some oil to wipe up that ran off and didnt soak in, but the wood seems to be fully oil-saturated now, it looks new, and the water wont cause any harm or staining if we should need to use the shower.
as far as it being a "wet" head, I plan to install a wrap around shower curtain on an overhead track, in an attempt to keep things as dry as possible, which will be a lot better than having to always wipe down the entire head area after showering.
I am going to try the lemon pledge treatment on the cabintop handrails this summer, and see what kind of results we get on exterior wood..
I am not proposing lemon pledge is the secret here, but its the emulsified formulation of it that causes it to cling to the vertical surfaces in a thicker layer is the answer... if you can find another oil that has those properties, i think it should work with equally satisfactory results.
after oiling it several times with very little results, I wasnt sure what I was going to do about it.... but then last october i tried lemon pledge, in the spray can.
it is formulated so that it will cling to a vertical surface better than any "liquid" oils will, so I bought a can and sprayed it on... and did NOT wipe it off or try to smooth it out.... i let it set til the next week when i returned to the boat....
when we returnd to the boat the next friday, the oil was gone, the stains were gone, and the wood was a rich brown color. I had found the answer and the problem was solved.
so i thought if one good dose was great, two would be perfect, so I gave it another treatment when I left again... there was some oil to wipe up that ran off and didnt soak in, but the wood seems to be fully oil-saturated now, it looks new, and the water wont cause any harm or staining if we should need to use the shower.
as far as it being a "wet" head, I plan to install a wrap around shower curtain on an overhead track, in an attempt to keep things as dry as possible, which will be a lot better than having to always wipe down the entire head area after showering.
I am going to try the lemon pledge treatment on the cabintop handrails this summer, and see what kind of results we get on exterior wood..
I am not proposing lemon pledge is the secret here, but its the emulsified formulation of it that causes it to cling to the vertical surfaces in a thicker layer is the answer... if you can find another oil that has those properties, i think it should work with equally satisfactory results.
Makes sense. Mine didn't come with the original then. And I've since replaced the ugly water-damaged monstrosity that was in there (the PO apparently left the little cabin-top porthole open during a few too many downpours) with a nice old teak one. Guess I can remove the latch now.
Thanks!
Please post a photo of your table if you can. We (actually the Admiral) hates our table and we are researching alternatives.Makes sense. Mine didn't come with the original then. And I've since replaced the ugly water-damaged monstrosity that was in there (the PO apparently left the little cabin-top porthole open during a few too many downpours) with a nice old teak one. Guess I can remove the latch now.
Thanks!
Thanks!
I'll try to get over to Pelican tomorrow and take a couple of photos of the table. If not tomorrow, then definitely this weekend.