building a propane locker...

[centerline]

I have room for, and want to use a 20lb propane tank for my heating, cooking and bbq.... but for this size of tank there are no propane tank lockers available for a "below deck" tank install.

so i hand crafted my own out of fiberglass.... the prototype is a bit rough in spots, but have since faired it out where necessary, after the photos. the pics are taken fresh from the mold...

the male mold took almost 40hrs to complete... once I started the layup, it has taken three days to get it to this point.

it has one layer of cloth, 2 layers of mat, and another layer of cloth.... almost a 1/2gallon of resin.... i am currently painting it with 2 coats of epoxy, inside and out, and then it will be ready for paint.

total height on it is 3/4" taller than a 20lb/5gallon manchester or worthington propane cylinder for a total of 18-3/4"... inside, I will place a ring of mud flap material in the bottom of it for the tank to set on, and the tank only has an eighth of an inch clearance inside, so it holds the tank secure.
it also has a recess cast into it for the valve.
at this time I still need to glass in the vent tube to the bottom of it.

on my boat it will fit under the starboard cockpit settee, just to the right of the helm... there is plenty of space under there but no way to access it without going in thru a panel at the foot of the quarter berth, or crawl around behind the steering gear... a perfect out of the way place for a locker to be installed and not be in the way...

I will cut a hole in the settee for tank access and bolt it to the underside of the settee with 3M-4000 for a sealer, then either create a lid for it from the cutout section, or cover it with a ready made deck hatch... and vent it from the bottom, out thru the hull

I own 3 boats, so I am taking the mold to a fiberglass shop to see what it costs to do a chopper gun layup on it...

 

[ALNims]

Looks very professional. What did you use for molding? Best of luck on the installation.

 

[Sumner]

Looks really nice, good work!!!

My only suggestion would be sure you have enough room on the side extension to get the hose from the tank in there along with the regulator, the solenoid shut-off valve and then the hose from it out..

...this can all take us some room. The locker on the Endeavour is pretty big but still a tight fit getting all of this in there and hooked up. Have you hooked up all of the above at this point and does it fit?

If you had to lengthen that area it probably wouldn't be much work at this point,

Sumner

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]============================

Our Endeavour 37

Our MacGregor 26-S Pages

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links[/FONT]

 

[centerline]

Looks really nice, good work!!!

My only suggestion would be sure you have enough room on the side extension to get the hose from the tank in there along with the regulator, the solenoid shut-off valve and then the hose from it out..

...this can all take us some room. The locker on the Endeavour is pretty big but still a tight fit getting all of this in there and hooked up. Have you hooked up all of the above at this point and does it fit?

If you had to lengthen that area it probably wouldn't be much work at this point,

Sumner

The solenoid "box" is 8" tall x 4.5"wide x 3" deep (outward from the tank).... all sides of it are tapered (to allow for easy removal of the mold extension) so it measures bigger next to the tank

the top of the solenoid box sets plenty high above the upper radius of the tank to allow for easy access of the hoses and valve, and allow a bit of relief for the hose coming off of the regulator....

I thought it all out, measured it pretty well and originally had the box planned out to be mounted lower, but then i realized it would not allow for the reg hose to come up from the solenoid to the tank valve.... so i raised it. lucky i caught that.

ALNims,... the mold is made from a large piece of PVC pipe and plywood as the photo shows. the section of large PVC pipe i had to split so that after layup I could remove it from the casting. I was surprised that when I split it lengthwise, it has a strong tendency to spring inward/collapse.... this is good so when I remove the bracing, it automatically pulls loose from the cast piece... removes very easily.

I am getting ready to reassemble the mold now, as i have an appointment with the chopper gun on monday...

 

[Benny17441]

I like your idea and the locker looks really nice but I'm failing to visualize how you may design an airtight lid for the locker while maintaining convenient access to the tank valve and pressure gauge. Will you have enough clearance to be able to work the lid through the intended settee port? I'm also trying to understand your choice of a 20lbs tank as based on average consumption you may be just storing more propane aboard than the convenience of an adequate supply would require. Once you get it all done it would be nice if you could provide some pictures.

 

[Chief RA]

centerline: I made a flat track glass seat/stern piece in my plastics class years ago. I used slip clay formed over the frame for a one off and laid her up right on the Yamaha XT 500 cycle frame. It came out beautiful and would snap on the frame. Got an A in that class!
Planning to modify my rudder this spring. Will add 6" up leading vertical edge as rudder bite is inadequate at only 12" front to back depth.
Later, Chief

 

[Sumner]

I like your idea and the locker looks really nice but I'm failing to visualize how you may design an airtight lid for the locker while maintaining convenient access to the tank valve and pressure gauge. Will you have enough clearance to be able to work the lid through the intended settee .....

I don't see where he needs an airtight lid but the compartment does need to be sealed from the interior of the boat and it looks like he has that covered....

I will cut a hole in the settee for tank access and bolt it to the underside of the settee with 3M-4000 for a sealer, then either create a lid for it from the cutout section, or cover it with a ready made deck hatch... and vent it from the bottom, out thru the hull

.... since it will be sealed to the underside of the settee and have the vent in the bottom,

Sumner

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]============================

Our Endeavour 37

Our MacGregor 26-S Pages

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links[/FONT]

 

[centerline]

I like your idea and the locker looks really nice but I'm failing to visualize how you may design an airtight lid for the locker while maintaining convenient access to the tank valve and pressure gauge. Will you have enough clearance to be able to work the lid through the intended settee port? I'm also trying to understand your choice of a 20lbs tank as based on average consumption you may be just storing more propane aboard than the convenience of an adequate supply would require. Once you get it all done it would be nice if you could provide some pictures.

Benny, Sumner is correct in the design concept.... the lid will be watertight, so also fairly airtight.

after cutting a 12"hole in the settee, the casting will be thru bolted up to the underside of the settee (with sealer), with countersunk heads on top... so the inside of the casting/locker becomes common only with the outside of the boat, and the inside of the boat is still sealed from any of the elements and gases that may leak inside the locker from the cylinder/valve assembly.

there will be a drain in the bottom of the casting for safety and as required by law...exiting thru to the outside of the hull below the bottom of the locker.

the tank does set below the top of the casting lip, so it has room for any type of lid/cover I can come up with.
as of yet I have not figured out what I will end up using for the "hatch" cover over the locker, but do know how to cover it temporarily, and as good of a design as it is, i may end up using it permanently.

I have searched for a ready made hatch that has a 12x12" inside opening, (Square or round) but have found nothing available in that size.
i want a low profile design, and a recessed would even be better...

I will post more pics once i get it installed, but there is still quite a bit of work to be done... waiting for cure out so i can paint it, fitting the solenoid valve and plumbing, cutting the hole in the settee and epoxying the cut.... fitting the casting and drain to the boat... and then making/installing the lid...

I think I am almost done with the easy part, now comes the work...

 

[kito]

Thanks for posting this Centerline. I need to do this same thing only for a smaller 10 lb tank. My lazerette opening is only 11" wide so can't get a 20 pounder in there.

 

[centerline]

Thanks for posting this Centerline. I need to do this same thing only for a smaller 10 lb tank. My lazerette opening is only 11" wide so can't get a 20 pounder in there.

thats the problem with the large tanks, or lockers made for them... you need to have a big enough hole somewhere, going blow deck to get a propane tank in... if a propane tank wont fit, a custom made locker built for the area is worthless also.
luckily i have the room to fit the locker, but its still going to be PIA to get it bolted into place.

im gonna have to hire a little person with long, double jointed arms to work below decks in the tight space for the install.

 

[kito]

im gonna have to hire a little person with long, double jointed arms to work below decks in the tight space for the install.

I feel your pain. Been there before when replacing my strut. My back hasn't been the same since.

 

[Mark Maulden]

Centerline, I did something like this last year but used a commercially bought locker. I ran the drain hose low on the boat and exited per recommendations of the yard. My locker now takes on water. I haven't yet determined if under sail or power or both. Something to watch out for. I have yet to solve that problem.....

 

[Chief RA]

centerline: While setting my boat up I located a brass adaptor that screws directly into my regular bottle fitting to allow me to use the green 16 oz bottles as emergency fuel in case I run out of propane with my larger tank. I carry 2 green bottles as backup. Of course I keep them outside in the cockpit locker. Just thought you and others might like this info in case you were not aware of these adapters sold at propane businesses.
Chief

 

[centerline]

Centerline, I did something like this last year but used a commercially bought locker. I ran the drain hose low on the boat and exited per recommendations of the yard. My locker now takes on water. I haven't yet determined if under sail or power or both. Something to watch out for. I have yet to solve that problem.....

Mark, this is a concern and not sure how to remedy it...

when im motoring, the water level is 1/2 inch below the cockpit floor, as seen in the drains.
the bottom of the locker will be about 3 inches below the cockpit floor...

ive thought about putting a bit of a hump in the vent line. this way it would remain clear, yet be above the water level. the problem with this is, if any water does get in the locker by rain seepage or when the boat heels, it wont drain out...

but then on the other hand, keeping the drain straight out the hull, then as long as we use the tank exchange program for refills, if the tank rusts a bit it wont matter, as long as it drains out so the line is clear when at rest.

 

[Sumner]

When the boat is at rest is the bottom of the locker below the waterline? Sorry little confused,

Sumner

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]============================

Our Endeavour 37

Our MacGregor 26-S Pages

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links[/FONT]

 

[centerline]

centerline: While setting my boat up I located a brass adaptor that screws directly into my regular bottle fitting to allow me to use the green 16 oz bottles as emergency fuel in case I run out of propane with my larger tank. I carry 2 green bottles as backup. Of course I keep them outside in the cockpit locker. Just thought you and others might like this info in case you were not aware of these adapters sold at propane businesses.
Chief

Thanks Chief....
I do have a couple of those adapters around. I have lots of fittings that ive collected/needed over the years, and mostly i even know where they are when i need them.

for the 1lb green bottles, I made a bag that holds two of them, that hangs from the stern rail. i have no sealed compartments on the exterior of either boats to keep them in.

currently i do use the bottles for the buddy heater on the 25, and for the bbq's on both the 25 and the 34, but after I get the locker installed on the 34, i will have a dedicated gas line going to the bbq on it..

 

[centerline]

When the boat is at rest is the bottom of the locker below the waterline? Sorry little confused,

Sumner

no, it wont be below the waterline at rest....

im not sure of the actual mechanics of it, but either the prop wash, the wake from the boat under power, or due to the boat squatting at the stern under power, whatever the reason for it, the water level raises in the cockpit drains when im motoring... there is a 6-8 difference in the water level at the stern when under power at 7.5kts

 

[centerline]

let me clarify... 6-8 difference in the water level in the cockpit drain hoses.... it has clear 1.5" suction line installed as the drain line, and i can see the water level in it when looking in the laz... there in no water in the line above the ballvalves when at rest, but when under motor power, the water level rises to almost cockpit floor level....

this may be due to the 2 drains exiting the hull a foot above and 2ft aft of the prop.... the pressure from the prop wash could be causing the water to rise in the drains....but it doesnt come up into the cockpit.

 

[Mark Maulden]

When the boat is at rest is the bottom of the locker below the waterline? Sorry little confused, Sumner ============================ Our Endeavour 37 Our MacGregor 26-S Pages Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida Mac-Venture Links

Sumner, for my situation, the bottom of the locker is about 12-15" above the waterline at rest. The drain hose was run aft to about 5" above the waterline at rest. Under way, motoring, that waterline raises due to the flow around the hull and forces water into the locker. Under sail the waterline raises cuz of healing. Thought about putting a long clamshell over the hose penetration. It is compliant but not practical. The yard located the penetration when I was hauled for bottom paint. I didn't make an issue about it as I'm divorcing myself from that yard for various reasons....don't mean to hijack Centerlines post....

 

[mitiempo]

The vent exit must be above the waterline when running under power as well as at any angle of heel. There cannot be any rise in the vent line - it has to be continuously downward for proper drainage and to eliminate any "P trap" effect that would restrict drainage of lpg.