Need Rudder and swing keel dimensions (1981, H22)

[CKDK]

Re: Yep, just did that last summer...

Thanks for the help.
This is one of the projects I want to do this spring since I decided to keep this boat instead of going bigger. Paid for is a lot better in this economy.
Any ideas on how to raise the boat off the trailer? I don't have ready access to any boat jacks.
I plan on taking a lot of picture of the projects so others can benefit.
Thanks,
Craig

 

[rockp2]

How high?

Craig,
I am not sure how high you need to get the trailer off the bunks but if you are just looking for a few inches and do not plan on moving the trailer, here is what I did (which also leads to a question I have for you Charlie, please see the end of this message):

1. Go buy about a dozen railroad ties at your local landscaping supplier (they cost me $7.00 apiece). Cut them in thirds.

2. Lower your trailer tongue jack all of the way down.

3. Use approx half the ties to stack build cribbage. I suggest rows of 3, but you could probably go with 2 on each row. Place these under the aft end of your boat as far forward as your trailer will allow. I will probably end up a foot or 2 behind the keel. Use 2x4s or whatever else to get the cribbage as tight to the bottom of the hull as possible (ensure you spread the load as much as possible so as not to damage the hull).

4. Raise the tongue jack. You probably want to use a floor jack to assist with that so you don't strip out the tongue jack. As the front of the trailer moves up, the back moves down and the boat stays static on top of the cribbage.

This will give you about half a foot or so off of the bunks. Without boat stands, I would NOT suggest doing the same to the forward end of the boat. However, the bunks on the front will act like jack stands and the boat won't "heel". This how my boat is currently set up and I am in and out of it and climbing all over it. It is rock steady.

However, if you do get jack stands, here is how I might do it (NOTE: I have NOT done this part myself yet):

1. Raise the tongue on the trailer as much as possible (maybe even use a good floor jack to get more height.

2. Place your boat jack stands aft and run the chain for the stands under the bottom of the hull.

3. Place the other half of the cribbage (railroad ties) under the forward portion of the boat (once again ensuring the boat load is spread over as much cribbage surface as possible and tight to the bottom of the hull).

4. Then place boat stands on the forward portion of the boat.

5. Lower the trailer tongue just barely enough to run the chain for the forward boat stands under the hull, and connect the chain to the 2 stands.

6. Finish lowering the tongue of the trailer and the boat will stay sitting on the cribbage off of the trailer.

You can't move the trailer obviously, but if you are just looking for some inches, this should cover it.

Now my question to you Charlie: I am not having success figuring out how far aft the lead for the ballast extends? I figure this must be the strongest part of the hull and I want to ensure that where I have the cribbage located is under that lead. I see no warpage at all to my hull the way I currently am set up (maybe because of an I-beam keel or something ???), but I want to be sure I do not have the weight of the boat resting solely on fiberglass. Thanks!

 

[SeaTR]

Re: How high?

Fellas,

YUP, that's about right...

The process you described for the "stern lift" is VERY close to the method I used this past summer in order to drop the swing keel for refit. I have SOME, not many, pix of the setup, but it will take a while for me to 'find' them. As soon as I do...I'll post 'em.

OBTW, I did not bother to jack up the bow THAT much. I DID use a number of 6"x6" "railroad ties" as you also describe for the bow (without any boat jack use), and stabilized strickly by the bow roller and the trailer winch bow "V". Somewhat akin to leveraging the boat from the stern with the pivot point being the trailer winch bow ("V"). The stability of this arrangement is in the careful and sound placement of the stern boat stands and the addition of more 6"x6" ties with cedar shakes as shimming for the best fit to the centerline of the hull, just aft of the keel trunk.

The lead ballast of this boat is in the keel straddling the keel trunk. It is accessed by pulling the deck boards in the salon. This is also the same access needed to get to the keel pivot plates' mounting hardware.

--Charlie

 

[SeaTR]

I found a few pix of my setup...lookiing to see if there are any others of any use. These aren't the best either, but here goes.

The last pix (...9386) shows the lead ballast exposed with the teak & holly deck boards removed.

--Charlie

 

[SeaTR]

Herv--
I can't find any other pictures of my "boat lift" off of the trailer from last year. Hopefully you can see my setup from the ones above, if not let me know what you don't see/understand.

--Charlie

 

[SeaTR]

Herv--
Have you figured out how you to plan to llift the boat from the trailer for keel work?

Does anyone have any other ideas out there????

--Charlie

 

[SeaTR]

Herv---
So what's the latest with YOUR keel / lift project? ...OBE? or are you finished already?
--Charlie

 

[Deucer]

Regarding the issue of how to keep the rudder down AND still have it kick up when needed. On my H260, I use a nylon pin that keeps the rudder down, but will shear off if you hit anything substansial....or burying the rudder in enough mud.

 

[SeaTR]

Deucer,
thanks for the idea... did you drill a special hole in the rudder post/rudder blade, or did your boat come configured that way? Where did you go for your nylon rod stock? ...local hardware store ?? ...or on the web ?? ...??
--Charlie

 

[LDM]

SeaTR & Rockp2, I am enjoying your exchanges. Having recently acquired an '81 H22 also, I am in a similar position. Found it in VA, bought a used trailer with straight bunks, and after raising the bunks, brought it home to NC. Now I want to make a real sailboat trailer and am interested in any information along these lines, so thanks.

 

[SeaTR]

Hey Herv,
Haven't heard from you in a while...how's the boat lift job coming along? Did you find a good spot /combination for the blocking / boat stands??

--Charlie

 

[SeaTR]

Does anybody have "details" of the construction of the H22 hull (Swing Keel) that would show the proper location for blocking / cribbing ...as well as locating the boat stands, to properly store the boat on land?

 

[SeaTR]

Hey Herv--

Check out Bilgewater's rig for lifting / storing his boat (see in Lynnie's thread " Painting 23.5 on trailer, how best to 'tip' to get where it sits on the rails"):


Bilgewater
Hunter 26
Buckeye Lake


Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 23

Top
Here are pics of my setup. 2 2x6s with a 1/2 inch plywood filler, glued and screwed together. 4x4s for the supports. I did it all with an aumotive floor jack, and some made up supports of stacked 4x4s to support the boat & trailer while assembling the beams. I loosened the bunk support bolts, and then removed the top ones to let the bunks tilt out of the way for painting. Covered everything with plastic to keep the paint off the bunk carpet. It isn't pretty, and takes a little work, but you can do it safely and cheaply on your own. Good luck. Odd you couldn't find my original post. It is within five or six posts of yours in the small boat forum.
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...some ideas that may be useful to you??

 

[redhawkcrone]

Do you have drawings of your electral work.

 

[rockp2]

Time flies by

Hey Charlie,
Sorry I haven't been responding in awhile. Tied up with work and, on the weekends I do have off, between yard maintenance and "honey-do's", I am behind schedule.

I think I am going to concrete my whole yard and paint it green. Anyone that enjoys riding that stupid lawn tractor and doing yard work on weekends is probably the same type of person that likes the "4 seasons".

I've never figured those people out that have nothing better to do in their life but move white-heavy-wet crap from point A to point B while wearing 12 layers of clothing in the cold.

Since we're hitting 40-50 degree weather this week in PA, I think the next person that cheerfully says "I love the 4 seasons." I am going to buy them a picture calendar for them to look at.....and then poke them in the eye (with a fist).

I am now rolling up the "yard-workers" into the same category as the "4- seasoners". Somehow I can think of about 2,000 other things that would be more enjoyable to do in my life (like sliding down razorblades into a vat of alcohol).

Now that I have thoroughly pissed off everyone in the Northeast. And they are probably going to hit their reply button to come up with an original comment like "why don't you move then, you jerk?" I will respond with 2 answers:

1. Job
2. Because I have less of a life than the "yard-workers" and "4-seasoners"

Relax everybody, don't take me seriously, just ranting because I am not currently on my circumnavigation by now and I want others to wallow in my self pity (misery loves company). Go ahead and cheerfully mow your grass and you folks in Erie enjoy your 3 seasons (Winter, Fall and 4th of July).

Anyway Charlie, attached is the page you had messaged me about. Have you seen this yet?

 

[SeaTR]

Herv,
I hear 'ya re: the work / honey-do list items slowing spring preparations up. ...ME TOO. No I had not seen this sketch of the supprting ribs before...It looks like it's for the keel boat though, and I've a swing keel (possibly different ribbiing to some degree).

I did get a chance to launch the boat on the Thames River a couple of weekends ago, but alas another problem unforseen and vulnerable to when one buys a project boat...it leaked somewhere around the swing keel trunk. It was a 'good one' as I had to use the backup sump pump to keep the cabin pumped out until I could get the trailer dipped in to retrieve her. I had to grind off the liner around the trunk. (It's been done on this boat before and was assured all leaks had been addressed....apparently NOT>

I've been slowly working on glassing over any suspected locations and just finished making a replacement 1/2" plywood cover (vs the fiberglass linder cover). see the attached pix-- the bottom portion is the temporary fix. I'm using it for this year as a prototype and then replace it with something a little more pleasing to the eyes. I wanted to be able to remove the trunk cover at sea, if more repairs are needed, and to perform visual inspections when launching next time. I am a woodworker and the job did not take much time, but it was jsut the agony of being so close to getting the boat on the mooring and sailing the next day, but that was not to be.

But will be soon enough.
--Charlie

 

[SeaTR]

I'm on the water...swing keel is fully functional !!
...Only took me a little under 3 years...



Charlie

 

[rockp2]

Congrats!

That is great to hear Charlie! How does she sail for you? I am begining to think that the project I hoped would only take 1 year may take 2 . How 'bout I come up and crew for you for a day so I can see what I am working towards?

Congrats once again!

 

[SeaTRR]

Happy Sailing the H22

THANKS FOR THE CONGRATS.....Sure, come on down and crew if you REALLY want to... I've taken her out for 8 sails since June and am thoroughly enjoying it!! Most of the time I'm solo. My wife has limited interest in sailing. All works well except for the V-berth ports, both of which need replacing. I never got to those in my refit efforts, but will be #1 when I get her out of the water.

--Charlie (SeaTR)

 

[SeaTR]

...by the way. I am exceedingly happy with my replacement rudder from Ida-Sailor !!