I recently purchased a used H170 and was thinking about getting a motor for it. Is a 2 or 2.5 HP about the correct size? Do I need a long or short shaft?
Thanks
Thanks
Motor for 170
- Thread starter SailerRonIndy
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2 HP is fine. It will push the 170 almost up to 6 MPH at max RPM. I would suggest you get a late model that has the idle function at low rpm. I have a late model Honda and an early model no-namer which does NOT have the idle function. When that engine is going, the boat is MOVING. It can get a bit hairy if you're in a dock area among other boats without the idle function, especially if you have any windage.
Ideally, I would like a motor with a gear shift, but as far as I know, no one makes that feature in a 2 HP. Having to lean over the back and spin the engine 180 degrees can be a "circus".
I've seen one guy on my lake with a small electric on his 170. That seems to work fairly well also although it's a bit unsightly with the power cable running from the front of the boat where he keeps his battery to the back and the engine.
Ideally, I would like a motor with a gear shift, but as far as I know, no one makes that feature in a 2 HP. Having to lean over the back and spin the engine 180 degrees can be a "circus".
I've seen one guy on my lake with a small electric on his 170. That seems to work fairly well also although it's a bit unsightly with the power cable running from the front of the boat where he keeps his battery to the back and the engine.
Thanks BlueRunner. I have the option of purchasing a newer Mercury 4 HP with the F-N-R which might be nice. I am concerned about the weight -55 Lbs - and the outpur of 2.9KW. Not sure if this might be too much for the Hunter motor mount.
Your thoughts?
Your thoughts?
I would STRONGLY recommend you stay with lighter motors. The motor mount is fastened to a plywood square embedded within foam that forms the cap. Excessive weight or thrust can damage the area. The mount can be modified to bond to the hull but without additional support you're bound to rip the mount off of the deck.
I appreciate the functionality of a gearshift but believe you would not like the result.
That is exactly the information I was looking for. Also I am in the process of repairing some minor cracks in the cabin area. I found the proper plastic welder epoxy in white from McMaster Carr Supply that works great.
You can use other plastic mix epoxy products then sand and paint them. I found that Krylon white gloss was a very close color match to the ACP Hunter 170 I owned.
I used this:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1276841&cp=2568443.2568451.2624942.1303397
I would agree that the weight of a 2 HP engine is about the max you want hanging on the back of a 170. I just wish there was one with a gear shift. I find "spinning" my Honda 180 degrees in a tight spot can be a circus. When I need reverse, I usually have to "grab" something along the side of the boat which is very tricky leaning over the back to run the engine throttle.
Best to just stay away for "reverse" operations in tight spots.
Best to just stay away for "reverse" operations in tight spots.
Tohatsu makes a 2-3 hp outboard with a gear shift. I was in a hurry and got the Honda. The nice thing about the Honda is it is a four stroke - no oil mixes. The throttle handle pivots so that when you swing the motor 180 to go in reverse you don't have to reach over the motor to run the throttle. You have to remember to twist the throttle in the opposite direction.
From my casual search, it appears that the Tohatsu 2-3 hp has the same kind of forward/neutral shift found on the Honda with a 180 degree pivot for reverse. Both are 4 stroke engines with the Tohatsu apparently at least a couple of hundred cheaper if my search was correct.
My 2 hp Honda (08) came with my boat and I'm kinda married to it now. FWIW, my Honda is a bit on the temperamental side as far as fuel. Last year I had it tuned up and then put some gas out of a can that I had over the previous winter which clogged it up almost immediately. I took it back to the Honda dealer who cleaned out the fuel lines and whatever, after which it ran like a top.
In it's defense, I have a STIHL weed trimmer that's just as temperamental with old gas. So, I advise if you don't want to get stuck, use fresh gas ONLY in the Honda.
The big advantage with the Honda is that it can be run out of the water (air cooled) for testing without having a water tank to cool the engine.
My 2 hp Honda (08) came with my boat and I'm kinda married to it now. FWIW, my Honda is a bit on the temperamental side as far as fuel. Last year I had it tuned up and then put some gas out of a can that I had over the previous winter which clogged it up almost immediately. I took it back to the Honda dealer who cleaned out the fuel lines and whatever, after which it ran like a top.
In it's defense, I have a STIHL weed trimmer that's just as temperamental with old gas. So, I advise if you don't want to get stuck, use fresh gas ONLY in the Honda.
The big advantage with the Honda is that it can be run out of the water (air cooled) for testing without having a water tank to cool the engine.
I have an older 170 and an older Honda 2HP. My Honda does not have the throttle on the handle but no problem at all. Always starts on first or second pull even after being in the garage all winter. Can pick it up with one hand and put it on the dock.
Only trick, always shut off the gas and close the vent prior to tipping up to sail.
Only trick, always shut off the gas and close the vent prior to tipping up to sail.
My new Honda has an idle mode if the throttle is idled down all the way. The engine pivots 180 degree and the throttle also pivots so that with it in reverse, the throttle is still pointing forward.
For my money, I don't think the steerage is that great going forward while in close quarters (ie maneuvering among the other boats at my moorage buoy.) In the past, I've tried to approach the buoy upwind and it's always worked. However the last time I was coming back to the buoy, I tried a different approach. This time I backed the boat to the buoy and it seemed to work a lot better. First, the speed is a lot slower with the aft end of the boat slowing it down and I thought I had a lot more control approaching the buoy.
For my money, I don't think the steerage is that great going forward while in close quarters (ie maneuvering among the other boats at my moorage buoy.) In the past, I've tried to approach the buoy upwind and it's always worked. However the last time I was coming back to the buoy, I tried a different approach. This time I backed the boat to the buoy and it seemed to work a lot better. First, the speed is a lot slower with the aft end of the boat slowing it down and I thought I had a lot more control approaching the buoy.
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