THats pretty cool. I would like to go cruising in that thing for sure. I wonder if anyone has anyone has ever attempted to make a sailboat with horizontal sails like wings?
In deep on my V17
- Thread starter Hollyweirdos
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more boring work, not photo worthy. I took the CB and got it blasted for $60. Well worth it. It was primed and then sealed with epoxy and then faired with thickened epoxy. I havent sanded it yet mostly cause it is still drying. We flipped the deck over and have started with that. This is where a lot of the damage is. I had to cut out some of the plywood that was rotten on the foredeck. Also had to glass over a 4" hole. I decided to fill all the screw holes and just start fresh when its time. Got the replacement rub rail from WM. Going to use the least expensive taco kit. Should work just fine. Got the new winch and cable with a swaged on eye for the CB. Had a tune up done on the engine as well. It needed to have the carb pulled and cleaned. When the bottom paint job has had time to cure(one week) we will flip the hull and start building the interior. What a job. Holy smokes! I hope this thing sails.
Update, cb was faired with epoxy and fumed silica then sanded and primed with Pettit 4700. it was then painted with topside paint. One of three coats. I ordered a new cb bolt assy from Bluewater. The rotting wood On the deck was cut out and will be replaced with New. Epoxy it in place then glass it over.
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nice pic's!
Any thoughts about adding a front hatch? or support for one later...
Think you'll have her ready for the boat parade in 3 weeks? ;D
Any thoughts about adding a front hatch? or support for one later...
Think you'll have her ready for the boat parade in 3 weeks? ;D
Thanks Bill. No Way on the parade! I am working anyway. I was looking into a hatch but they are kind of expensive and I am way over the plan at this point. I am putting in one additional port that opens on the slanted part of the deck. I may add one or two of those solar or passive fans for fresh air.
Todays projects:
1. Learn how to use duraglass, fill holes.
2. Sand a bunch of epoxy and fiberglass
3. Mix up some lay-up poly resin and laminate new ply into deck
4. Epoxy ply and glass into deck by forestay. Changing to a deck mounted head stay instead of Mac. chain plate that went to hull.
5. Glass over old cockpit drain/cable hole. I will be putting in a smaller brass tube in the same area. Have to figure out the bolt that is there to take the rubbing from the winch cable. Maybe a sleeve of metal?
6. Glass over ply laminated into deck
7. Fix two cracks on side of deck from flexing with glass
8. Sand CB for coat 2
9. Grind out/remove old quarter berth stringers. New ones in more outboard position on the way.
10. Remove rotton ply that was laminated into transom to reinforce motor mount.
11. Cut 3/8 marine ply into shape of entire transom.
12. Warping that ply under CB to get correct bend.
13. Drink beer and relax.
1. Learn how to use duraglass, fill holes.
2. Sand a bunch of epoxy and fiberglass
3. Mix up some lay-up poly resin and laminate new ply into deck
4. Epoxy ply and glass into deck by forestay. Changing to a deck mounted head stay instead of Mac. chain plate that went to hull.
5. Glass over old cockpit drain/cable hole. I will be putting in a smaller brass tube in the same area. Have to figure out the bolt that is there to take the rubbing from the winch cable. Maybe a sleeve of metal?
6. Glass over ply laminated into deck
7. Fix two cracks on side of deck from flexing with glass
8. Sand CB for coat 2
9. Grind out/remove old quarter berth stringers. New ones in more outboard position on the way.
10. Remove rotton ply that was laminated into transom to reinforce motor mount.
11. Cut 3/8 marine ply into shape of entire transom.
12. Warping that ply under CB to get correct bend.
13. Drink beer and relax.
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You don't think that would work? I would like to see what they looked like from the factory. I think someone may have modified mine.
I just found a pic of Joe Vacs resto on his 17. Looks like he went with a pad eye through the deck. I was thinking to add one more layer of 3/8 ply to the inside of the front area to act as backing plate for the whole area. I would use long 1/4" bolts with fender washers. To beef up the hull deck joint, I am toying with either glassing the two together or adding a strip of ply to run the screws into. Maybe I could use through bolts on every few screws. Will also be using 5200 for the joint.
Mine just has one bolt through the hull.
By pulling on the deck it may cause the deck to curl up.
All my chain plates are connected to the hull.
By pulling on the deck it may cause the deck to curl up.
All my chain plates are connected to the hull.
same for mine, 1 bolt thru the hull.
The only advantage I see to a pad is it will be water tight.
with your idea, all the pull will be on the deck joints.
it could be just fine, but would really stink if it doesn't work out.
kinda a big risk... imho.
my experience with the duraglass or thickened fiberglass is it needs a bit more catalyst to kick off.
ps: I have lots of experience with #13... call if you need any help!
The only advantage I see to a pad is it will be water tight.
with your idea, all the pull will be on the deck joints.
it could be just fine, but would really stink if it doesn't work out.
kinda a big risk... imho.
my experience with the duraglass or thickened fiberglass is it needs a bit more catalyst to kick off.
ps: I have lots of experience with #13... call if you need any help!
Here is a picture of the inside on our 26S...
Not much to it, but it does show how the forces are now on the hull and not the deck and in an area of the hull that has a lot of strength.
Saying that a lot of people on different boats that run a lot more sail than what the 17 or we have do run an inner sail to a pad-eye. In addition to the plywood under the deck I'd also put in a backing plate, but you probably planned on that.
When I added the anchor bow rollers....
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/rigging-16.html
.. I also added an..
...attach point for the original forestay so that it could still be used as an inner stay for a storm jib or for use with one of our hank-on sails. I do have a ....
...backing plate for it. We have never used it to this point though.
Good luck and great work on the boat. You are making me tired just looking at the pictures,
Sum
Our Endeavour 37
Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida
Our MacGregor S Pages
Mac-Venture Links
Not much to it, but it does show how the forces are now on the hull and not the deck and in an area of the hull that has a lot of strength.
Saying that a lot of people on different boats that run a lot more sail than what the 17 or we have do run an inner sail to a pad-eye. In addition to the plywood under the deck I'd also put in a backing plate, but you probably planned on that.
When I added the anchor bow rollers....
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/rigging-16.html
.. I also added an..
...attach point for the original forestay so that it could still be used as an inner stay for a storm jib or for use with one of our hank-on sails. I do have a ....
...backing plate for it. We have never used it to this point though.
Good luck and great work on the boat. You are making me tired just looking at the pictures
,Sum
Our Endeavour 37
Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida
Our MacGregor S Pages
Mac-Venture Links
I guess I will just have to see how it plays out. Probably could go either way. I do have the original setup.
Thanks for your inputs though. It helps a lot.
Thanks for your inputs though. It helps a lot.
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