Here are some picts from today. You can see the zip tie of the tack and the ss eye screwed to the pipe. As I stated in an earlier post I would eliminate the eye by cutting a shallow grove in the pipe to keep the zip tie from sliding. Have had it out today for the 7th day of sailing and so far it works great. Only issue was getting the cover to slide over the clew and sheets. I'm too short to reach it and decided to try using the dock pole to poke and tuck and it worked well. Now I am totally satisfied.Frank, can you take some pictures of the zip ties and the hooks you are using? I am not really seeing how you attached it. I have the hanks going through the pipe connecting to the forestay inside. That way the PVC is not having to bear the load the forestay is. Glad to see you got it to work.
Hi, I am very interested in how you did this - usually anytime I can make something for the boat & save hundred$ I will do. Please send a list & photos. Thanks!I have both. I made a furler out of PVC and I slid it over the existing forestay. I can keep the hank on sails in the event I need them or someone needs a sail fast, and I made my 150 Genoa into a furler. I think the cost was under $30.00 for everything. I spent about two hours putting it together for the first time, andfine tuning it, but now I have a furler. I can get you a list and maybe take photos if you want to have a hank on furling sail.
Hi, How wide a slot and what size slugs?I did about the same thing for the original jib that came with my boat, and it works very well. I have bought a new jib, and so decided to imrove on the design . . . I hope, it is still in the living room and dining room right now (ah, the advantages of being single!!). On my original design, I replaced the pin on the top of my adjustment shackle with a 3" stainless bolt. On top of that I up a small length of PVC pipe that I fit a ball bearing roller in. Then, the actual furler, which has a rounded end cap on the bottom seats on top of the ball bearing. Makes it VERY easy to roll. On the new design, I steped up to 1 1/4" PVC and actually cut a slot all the way down it with a table saw (mine is made in sections) and am using slugs to attach the jib. I use a halyard which goes to a sheave on the top of the PVC and turns with it. The Halyard resides inside of the rolled jib. Even though I may loose a little power by bringing the jib up over the turnbuckle, I single hand a lot and I have a real problem with not being able to see where I am going. I hope to test this system in about a week, but so far I think it will work great.
Sorry about late post just noticed your query.Hey Frank, How did you attach the plastic to the metal? Also, what did you do with the top of the sail? I mean in terms of the halyard and the twisting?
THanks,
This sounds really unique. does the PVC twiist with a slot cut in it? Could you post some pics of your setup?I did about the same thing for the original jib that came with my boat, and it works very well. I have bought a new jib, and so decided to imrove on the design . . . I hope, it is still in the living room and dining room right now (ah, the advantages of being single!!). On my original design, I replaced the pin on the top of my adjustment shackle with a 3" stainless bolt. On top of that I up a small length of PVC pipe that I fit a ball bearing roller in. Then, the actual furler, which has a rounded end cap on the bottom seats on top of the ball bearing. Makes it VERY easy to roll. On the new design, I steped up to 1 1/4" PVC and actually cut a slot all the way down it with a table saw (mine is made in sections) and am using slugs to attach the jib. I use a halyard which goes to a sheave on the top of the PVC and turns with it. The Halyard resides inside of the rolled jib. Even though I may loose a little power by bringing the jib up over the turnbuckle, I single hand a lot and I have a real problem with not being able to see where I am going. I hope to test this system in about a week, but so far I think it will work great.