Got Questions? Ask Them Here.

[Maine Sail]

The Maxx-29's I have are made by Johnson Controls. Perhaps they use different vendors in different parts of the country or they just have a new vendor? I did notice a label change recently but did not look very closely at the battery. I would call Interstate and ask the specs. They probably have a 20 hour rate but sometimes it is just not published. Many of the DEKA re-branders don't publish the 20 hour rate but DEKA has it if you call & ask.

 

[wetass]

Thanks for the reply - I'll give them a call - BTW - These are Johnson Controls as well.

 

[wetass]

Quick Update -

I called Walmart (no luck there) & Interstate about the SRM-29 (Which from everything I can tell is the same as the Maxx-29) and the CS rep wasn't even sure what the C/20 rating was at first. They finally came back with 125 amp hours, but this does not make any sense to me. How can the C/20 rate be 125 when the specs they do publish say it can only sustain a 5 amp load for 21 hours (or 105 ah)? Wouldn't a 20 hour discharge rate result in fewer amps delivered? Also, given that the label itself says 125 is the amp hours @ 1 amp, it has to be somewhere below this value.

At this point, without further information, I think I'm going to program my monitor as if these Everstart Maxx-29s are only 100ah batteries now.

 

[pshelley]

Starter system troubleshooting

I have a Perkins 4-108. Occasionally when I hit the starter switch in the cockpit (and almost always when I really need the engine ten minutes ago), I just get a dead click. I have to continue to press the starter button 10-20 times and then suddenly, and for no apparent reason, it will just engage the starter. I have checked the wire connections for corrosion and everything seems fine. Are there other things I could investigate, or should I just pull the whole starter assembly (naturally, not that easy) and take it to a shop. Thanks.

 

[Maine Sail]

Sounds like the starter solenoid is not engaging. Also don't forget your ground connections as the return negative path for your starter is through the engine block and the negative wire connected to it. People often check the positive wires and ignore the negative. Remove and clean all contacts then try it again. You can then jump across the starter solenoid with a screw driver and if it goes off on the first try you've likely got a bad connection or switch.

 

[Solstice]

Mainsail,
Just bought a new boat and my first project is to add a starting battery. I've done this on my previous boats, however this time I plan on using an echocharger. Once I parallel my 4D's, one of the legs from my battery charger will no longer be needed. My question is, am I better off removing this lead entirely, or can I simply add it to the house bank so both legs go to the same bank? The only reason I would do this is to avoid removing the extra leg and having an extra in the event I ever needed it. Thoughts?

 

[ehh]

Maine Sail

I am having a problem with my new old boat. I put in new rancor filters. I gave the motor a test run afterwards for 15 minutes and all seemed fine. Now a couple of weeks later I tested it again and rpm's quickly dropped after about 20 seconds and then it cut out altogether. I have tried bleeding at the engine but I get no pressure. I changed the primary filter. Still nothing. I disconnect the fuel line at the motor and turn on the electric fuel pump, (there is one), and nothing comes out. The pump has a load tinny sound like it is dry. The rancor filters are full. And yes the fuel is turned on.

This is the set-up. The motor is a Betamarine 10. The fuel tank is in the port cockpit locker. The fuel line goes to two rancor filters at the port bulkhead. From there the line goes down next to the driveshaft where a Facet electric pump is located. From there the line goes forward under the engine and then up to engine's fuel pump.

I think that either the electric fuel pump isn't working or that it cannot self-prime. I have been thinking that in any case the electric fuel pump should be placed before the rancor filters, not after. I have considered putting a squeeze bulb fuel pump before the rancor filters and leaving the electric pump where it is. Moving it would be a pain. Re-routing the lines would require an additional length of line, which may not be desirable.

What do you think the problem is, and what ultimately is the best setup for this system?

 

[Maine Sail]

Mainsail,
Just bought a new boat and my first project is to add a starting battery. I've done this on my previous boats, however this time I plan on using an echocharger. Once I parallel my 4D's, one of the legs from my battery charger will no longer be needed. My question is, am I better off removing this lead entirely, or can I simply add it to the house bank so both legs go to the same bank? The only reason I would do this is to avoid removing the extra leg and having an extra in the event I ever needed it. Thoughts?

That is all dependent upon your specific charger. On some you simply combine them on others they have dip switches, and on others you simply don't use it, on others if you don't use it you give up half your amperage rating..

 

[Solstice]

That is all dependent upon your specific charger. On some you simply combine them on others they have dip switches, and on others you simply don't use it, on others if you don't use it you give up half your amperage rating..

Thanks MS. The charger is a Charles SP5000, 30A. No dip switches and like most chargers it 'shares' the 30amps across the leads...

 

[Winkfish]

Maine Sail (or any other knowledgeable people), I have a question about my fishing boat batteries. I've got 2 dual purpose. One is hooked to the motor (90 hp Mercury 6 cyl from 1985) and also powers my nav lights and bilge pump. The other is stand-alone, which is used to power a couple of electronic things - handheld GPS, VHF. The motor battery gets charged when I run the motor. The other does not, and it's a pain to charge it.
1. If I connect the 2 in series, will the motor, when running, sufficiently charge both?
2. I have in my "stuff box" a red and black battery wire, 4 gauge. Would this be of sufficient size to connect the batteries, if that's the way to go? The batteries are about 4 feet from each other.
3. If I were to charge the batteries with a charger, would I have to separate them to charge them? (My charger is a single bank charger.)

Thank you!!!

 

[Maine Sail]

Maine Sail (or any other knowledgeable people), I have a question about my fishing boat batteries. I've got 2 dual purpose. One is hooked to the motor (90 hp Mercury 6 cyl from 1985) and also powers my nav lights and bilge pump. The other is stand-alone, which is used to power a couple of electronic things - handheld GPS, VHF. The motor battery gets charged when I run the motor. The other does not, and it's a pain to charge it.
1. If I connect the 2 in series, will the motor, when running, sufficiently charge both?
2. I have in my "stuff box" a red and black battery wire, 4 gauge. Would this be of sufficient size to connect the batteries, if that's the way to go? The batteries are about 4 feet from each other.
3. If I were to charge the batteries with a charger, would I have to separate them to charge them? (My charger is a single bank charger.)

Thank you!!!

Do NOT connect in series you'll have 24 volts.. If you connect them in parallel, + to + and - to -, you have one large bank. Your motor will charge them but it will just take longer as the effective battery is now larger. Same for your charger. You will not need to disconnect them to charge them.

Be aware though that if they are of differing ages, type, size or brand it is not the best idea to "combine" them as a single bank. Combining during charging via a switch or relay would be fine just not when there is no charging being applied.

 

[Winkfish]

Do NOT connect in series you'll have 24 volts.. If you connect them in parallel, + to + and - to -, you have one large bank.

I knew that - just a brain fart. Thanks for your reply. They are the same type and size, but not the same brand. One is about 6 months old, the other about 4 years old. So, just to make sure I understand, with this age difference, it's best not to combine them (in parallel ) when there is no charge being applied, but it would be OK when they are being charged?

Would the 4 gauge cable be OK to combine them?

 

[Maine Sail]

I knew that - just a brain fart. Thanks for your reply. They are the same type and size, but not the same brand. One is about 6 months old, the other about 4 years old. So, just to make sure I understand, with this age difference, it's best not to combine them (in parallel ) when there is no charge being applied, but it would be OK when they are being charged?

Would the 4 gauge cable be OK to combine them?

Not "ideal" for the distance but will work. You could put a simple on/off battery switch in the positive parallel conductor so when the motor is running you simply flip it to ON which would combine them. Just don't forget to disconnect it when you shut down the motor. Batteries connected in parallel like to become the lowest common denominator in a period of time. Your 6 month old battery would feel like a four year old one if left in parallel constantly...

 

[Winkfish]

Thank you, thank you, MS!!

 

[ehh]

My question never got a response, but never mind I figured it out. Just a matter of removing all the lines and blowing them out

 

[Maine Sail]

My question never got a response, but never mind I figured it out. Just a matter of removing all the lines and blowing them out

Wow sorry about that. I don't know how I missed it. Gal you got it fixed though!!!

 

[ehh]

Thanks, it all started with a dirty fuel tank I guess.

 

[GrumpyPawPaw]

When hooked up to shore power, do I turn the 12v panel to off or keep it on "1"?

 

[Steve Dion]

It depends on how your boat is wired. Personally I prefer my boats to be wired so the A-B switch has nothing to do with the battery charger. Regardless of what position the switch is in, my batteries are charging as long as we are plugged into shore power and the charger is on.

If this is NOT the case, then you may want to leave it on ALL when you are on shore power to ensure that all of your battery banks are fully charged.

 

[GrumpyPawPaw]

It depends on how your boat is wired. Personally I prefer my boats to be wired so the A-B switch has nothing to do with the battery charger. Regardless of what position the switch is in, my batteries are charging as long as we are plugged into shore power and the charger is on.

If this is NOT the case, then you may want to leave it on ALL when you are on shore power to ensure that all of your battery banks are fully charged.

Thanks for the info Steve.