External Placement of Sender for Temperature Guage

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Jun 21, 2007
2,108
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
If nobody beats me to it while I'm typing, I'll be the first thread starter in this new forum ... which should be a great one.

First a description of my project. Then the question.

My Yanmar engine has a factory high temp switch mounted in the engine block. This triggers the alarm located in the cockpit instrument panel. It does work.

But also a PO had mounted inside the cabin a set of engine gauges. But they were never connected to the engine. And the senders either were never purchased, or somehow got lost.

I have recently obtained a sender for the temperature gauge. I was not able to easily find (nor at a reasonable price) the dual type that has both an alarm switch and the gauge in one unit.

My plan is to leave the original temperature alarm switch in its existing spot.

For the location of the gauge sender I have identified that there is a short piece of coolant hose which leads from the engine, from the same location as the engine alarm switch, to the thermostat housing. I am thinking to cut this hose and insert a galvanized "T" fitting with the "T" side having the same 3/8" thread size as the sender. The sender can then capture the coolant temp right as it leaves the engine block. Since the T fitting will be separated from the engine by the hose, I will need to run a dedicated ground wire for the gauge.

So question is : Good or bad idea? My goal for this is to note the normal temperature of the coolant as it leaves the engine block. This reading doesn't have to be accurate temperature wise, bu just be a consistent benchmark. Then if I ever notice the gauge reading much different from normal, I can investigate.
 

RAD

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Jun 3, 2004
2,330
Catalina 30 Bay Shore, N.Y.
Don't use a galvanized tee or any other fitting of that type use brass only and as far as location remove the alarm sender and insert a tee fitting in the same port that the sender came out than reinstall the alarm sender and your new sender in the tee
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,812
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
Be Careful

I did just that and that was a brass tee fitting for the oil pressure and guess what the brass tee did crack while motoring and lucky that I was looking at the oil gauge just as it went to o and I was able to to shut it down without harming the motor.
Check the other post mentioned that uses much stronger very heavy stock tee and will be doing just the temp guage on my H-36.
Nick
 
Oct 21, 2009
99
Hunter 36 San Diego, Ca
Here is a thread that might give you some ideas. Works well on my engine and is accurate. I understand you are looking for a bench mark as you stated but if possible it is nice to have it accurate as possible. I am not real fond of teeing into the hot water hose as it is not accurate in relation to your high temp buzzer sending unit. Hope it helps.
Scott

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=114015&referrerid=92505
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,108
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
Thanks folks for the info. Comforting to know that others have also "gone external" for to additional senders/sensors.

A couple of questions for RAD:

- What is the reason that I shouldn't use a galvanized steel T fitting? Is it because of risk of galvanic reaction or rust? On this: a) this addition is to the anti-freeze circuit. In other places on my engine Yanmar has used steel nipples for the connections from the engine block to the various hoses. I'm attracted to galvanized steel because the fittings are easily available everywhere.

- I also had thought about putting both the alarm switch and the sender on the ends of a T that would be mounted into the same port. But I reasoned that the coolant water would "dead end" with this arrangement and would not be flowing over the sensor. I don't know, but I'm wondering if this a consideration?

Thanks,
rardi
 
Last edited:
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Do not understand "dead end" Rardi. How is a 'T' on the original port with two sensors any different from one sensor on that port?

Can't comment on metals except to say I always use brass.
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,108
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
Do not understand "dead end" Rardi. How is a 'T' on the original port with two sensors any different from one sensor on that port?
Hi Ed:

My "reasoning" is:

When a sender or water temperature alarm switch is fitted directly into the port in the engine, the sensor side of the sender or switch extends into the flow of coolant going past it, or it extends in enough to at least have some interaction with circulating coolant. Also, being threaded into the engine, the temperature of the engine block/head is averaged into the reading.

If instead a short nipple is threaded into the port and on the other side of the nipple is the T fitting and finally at each end of the T fitting are the sensors/senders, then the coolant is dead-ended at that point. Coolant is not flowing past them. Further, if (say) I've got a 2" or 3" nipple length to connect the T to the engine, then the T (and the senders) are extended way out. So the temperature being sensed will probably be less than the actual engine/coolant temperature? -- particularly on a cold day?

This is my reasoning anyway. But I'm asking because my reasoning process sometimes (ok - frequently) leads to wrong conclusions. But I continue to put myself out there.

regards,
rardi
 

RAD

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Jun 3, 2004
2,330
Catalina 30 Bay Shore, N.Y.
rardi
I'm sure galvanized fittings would be fine but I always use brass.....all the original equipment fittings on my Westerbeke is brass, pipe to hose adapter's,nipples, elbows...etc
Another thought instead of a Tee is to look on the head for a plug that could be removed to install the additional sender
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Rardi, my reasoning is that you are wanting to measure the temp of the water. The water against the sensor will take on the same temperature as all the water in that area of the engine. It might take a few seconds longer for the heat to transfer that extra inch.
 
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