The 30 was a little small for my Hunter 170. I replaced it last fall with a 40. I haven't tried it yet, but it pushes my canoe quite well.I found a nearly new (about 3 hours of use) Minn Kota 30lb thrust trolling motor for $75. Now in my garage. Plenty of time to figure out how to mount it and the battery that I need to buy. Next, have to work through Texas' title process for boat with motor.
I'm sure it will. The 30 worked ok it was just a little slow on the 170. I would suggest getting a spare prop kit. Those props can break. They also have a shear pin that will leave you stranded.I think it will do fine for my Vagabond. I've read accounts from several owners of Holder 14s and Vagabonds that a 30 is well suited for this task.
The lake I normally go to has a decent ramp and dock, plenty of depth for dagger board. I don't see running the motor into ground. It's just to get me away from the docks as the prevailing wind blows one back into the docks. Is the cause of breakage hitting the bottom or do they simply fail after a time?I'm sure it will. The 30 worked ok it was just a little slow on the 170. I would suggest getting a spare prop kit. Those props can break. They also have a shear pin that will leave you stranded.
I think the 30/40 use the same prop. Mine is a softer plastic that may hold up better than older models. The shear pin is more critical. A gust of wind that sends you into the bank could wreck the day.The lake I normally go to has a decent ramp and dock, plenty of depth for dagger board. I don't see running the motor into ground. It's just to get me away from the docks as the prevailing wind blows one back into the docks. Is the cause of breakage hitting the bottom or do they simply fail after a time?
Only when I forget about it. You may find that sitting at the stern isn't comfortable for long periods. What I do is lockdown the motor and use the rudder/tiller to steer. This way I am forward with better weight distribution. I put the battery forward too for ballast and use jumper cables to extend the motor's cord.Do you keep the motor down, with the prop in the water, while under sail?
If you can reach the motor that is great. I can't with the 170 and sit near the CB. Most battery boxes come with mounting hardware and a strap. I'm not good with drilling holes. There should be some way to attach it to the tabernacle. A net comes to mind.I tend to sit near the centerboard. The motor I have weighs 15 pounds - don't think that will affect balance much. Haven't figured out how to mount the battery so I don't lose it if I capsize.
I had a brand new Torqueedo for my dinghy. Took the dinghy to the beach to wash the bottom, while carrying the motor up the beach it slipped from my wet hands dropping about 6 inches landing on the prop. I had a one blade prop, it didn't work well.The lake I normally go to has a decent ramp and dock, plenty of depth for dagger board. I don't see running the motor into ground. It's just to get me away from the docks as the prevailing wind blows one back into the docks. Is the cause of breakage hitting the bottom or do they simply fail after a time?
They don't have a Vagabond or a Holder 14 on their list. Not sure how that would work on my boat.
Hmmm.... probably not going to find your boat on a lot of lists. You might need to spend some quality time with a tape measure and come up with some design spec. boundary conditions.They don't have a Vagabond or a Holder 14 on their list. Not sure how that would work on my boat.
That's my plan.Hmmm.... probably not going to find your boat on a lot of lists. You might need to spend some quality time with a tape measure and come up with some design spec. boundary conditions.
Here is a concept idea. On my canoe, I took two blocks of wood, 2x4, and trimmed them to mate to the aft gunwale. I put a sheet metal strap between the blocks to help hold it in place. I don't know the thickness of your gunwales but the motor clamp is wide. This is not the most elegant method but it works for me.That's my plan.
Some sailors have advised against using wood, as it will deteriorate after a while. But pressure treated wood or cedar will last a long time.Here is a concept idea. On my canoe, I took two blocks of wood, 2x4, and trimmed them to mate to the aft gunwale. I put a sheet metal strap between the blocks to help hold it in place. I don't know the thickness of your gunwales but the motor clamp is wide. This is not the most elegant method but it works for me.