I am looking for a used 150 Genoa for my 1986 - 23" Hunter sailboat that can be used with a roller reefing system. What is a good price? What should I look for in quality? Also which reefing system works well with this boat? What should this reefing system cost?
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MIke B
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Tom
Thats a small 150.
I know this is the smaller sailboat website, but I didn't know Hunter made one that small. Do you really need a furler?
I know this is the smaller sailboat website, but I didn't know Hunter made one that small. Do you really need a furler?
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Greg Stebbins
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MIke B
Greg, Bristle,
MOstly we agree, happened to remember fathers admonition about giving latitude to the infirm and all less fortunate , regardless of their affliction, Mike B
MOstly we agree, happened to remember fathers admonition about giving latitude to the infirm and all less fortunate , regardless of their affliction, Mike B
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Greg Stebbins
To be fair....
Tom's right. But Hunter discontinued the 23 inchers after building only eight. That's when a lay-up guy discovered the scale error on the prints. All others were 23 footers. The 23 inchers are THE only true pocket crusers though.
Tom's right. But Hunter discontinued the 23 inchers after building only eight. That's when a lay-up guy discovered the scale error on the prints. All others were 23 footers. The 23 inchers are THE only true pocket crusers though.
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Darrel Richards
H23 in Indiana
Hi Allen in Indiana. Are you sure you need a 150% jib for the h23? I had a 135% made by Super Sails here in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida and it has proven to be a great match for this boat. Its dacron and is a hank on, which saves a little money and gives much better sail shape. No uv cover attached to the sail. For great performance, I would suggest that you stick with a hank on sail for this boat. To have my 135% custom made cost about $500. I am very pleased with the sail. What lake do you sail on in Indiana? I used to live in Indianapolis and moved down here many years ago. Good luck.
Hi Allen in Indiana. Are you sure you need a 150% jib for the h23? I had a 135% made by Super Sails here in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida and it has proven to be a great match for this boat. Its dacron and is a hank on, which saves a little money and gives much better sail shape. No uv cover attached to the sail. For great performance, I would suggest that you stick with a hank on sail for this boat. To have my 135% custom made cost about $500. I am very pleased with the sail. What lake do you sail on in Indiana? I used to live in Indianapolis and moved down here many years ago. Good luck.
You may want to reconsider going for a 150
I too thought a 150 genoa would be good for my H23, especially for those really hot, light-air days that we get in the summer down here. Now I know better. After consulting with many who have had great success racing the H23 locally, I learned that the 150 is too much headsail for this boat. With the 110 working jib, the H23 sometimes has trouble pointing as high as some other boats (the solution is to modify the rig...not for the faint of heart). The 150 doesn't improve the pointing ability of the boat, even though there is more drive in lighter air. A 135 genoa seems to be about the max headsail that will work. The question really comes down to this...do you want to buy a roller-reefing rig and 150 genoa that you will probably never unroll completely? For what it would cost, you could get a 135 and a cruising chute too. Whaddaya think? Peter S/V Raven
I too thought a 150 genoa would be good for my H23, especially for those really hot, light-air days that we get in the summer down here. Now I know better. After consulting with many who have had great success racing the H23 locally, I learned that the 150 is too much headsail for this boat. With the 110 working jib, the H23 sometimes has trouble pointing as high as some other boats (the solution is to modify the rig...not for the faint of heart). The 150 doesn't improve the pointing ability of the boat, even though there is more drive in lighter air. A 135 genoa seems to be about the max headsail that will work. The question really comes down to this...do you want to buy a roller-reefing rig and 150 genoa that you will probably never unroll completely? For what it would cost, you could get a 135 and a cruising chute too. Whaddaya think? Peter S/V Raven
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Greg Stebbins
Agree with Peter, but....
The 150 is a saver in ultra lite wind. If you're anal retentive enough (me) to try to sail when a reasonable person would just fire up the outboard, then a light #1 150 has value I guess. I wouldn't use the 150 in winds over 5-7 knots.
The 150 is a saver in ultra lite wind. If you're anal retentive enough (me) to try to sail when a reasonable person would just fire up the outboard, then a light #1 150 has value I guess. I wouldn't use the 150 in winds over 5-7 knots.
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Jim Kolstoe
150% gennies are funnnnn!
We got out h23 12/86. Standard sails were UK main and 100% jib. We added a 150% gennie and tracks for adjustable fairleads in summer '88. Since then, the 150% is our headsail of choice. We use the 100% only if it is blowing consistantly over about 15kts, the top end of the 150% sail's working range.(Like all sails, it works best in certain wind speed ranges, and can be damaged if used in too strong a wind.) Don't let anyone scare you away from the 150% - the power and accelaration it provides is a kick. Does it over-power the h23. Not in the winds its intended for. Is it harder to use than a smaller sail? It certainly requires more strength than a 100%, I expect more than a 135%. You're triming against a stronger pull, and having to trim farther. There are three ways to cheat while trimming, in addition to just getting it mostly trimed in on the new tack before the boat completes its turn. 1) use the winches. 2) "bowstring" by running from the winch to the opposite cleat, pull the sheet in the middle like you would a bowstring, then pull the extra around your cleat as you ease the sheet back to straight across. 3) grab the line, stand up and lean back and pull(it helps that I'm 6ft tall, 215lbs, which is why I call it guerilla winching). BTW, if you don't have them, invest in a good pair of sailing gloves, no matter what size gennie you get. The 150% is also excellent downwind, functing like a small asymetrical when you use an adjustible whisker pole. So go for the 150%. Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo
We got out h23 12/86. Standard sails were UK main and 100% jib. We added a 150% gennie and tracks for adjustable fairleads in summer '88. Since then, the 150% is our headsail of choice. We use the 100% only if it is blowing consistantly over about 15kts, the top end of the 150% sail's working range.(Like all sails, it works best in certain wind speed ranges, and can be damaged if used in too strong a wind.) Don't let anyone scare you away from the 150% - the power and accelaration it provides is a kick. Does it over-power the h23. Not in the winds its intended for. Is it harder to use than a smaller sail? It certainly requires more strength than a 100%, I expect more than a 135%. You're triming against a stronger pull, and having to trim farther. There are three ways to cheat while trimming, in addition to just getting it mostly trimed in on the new tack before the boat completes its turn. 1) use the winches. 2) "bowstring" by running from the winch to the opposite cleat, pull the sheet in the middle like you would a bowstring, then pull the extra around your cleat as you ease the sheet back to straight across. 3) grab the line, stand up and lean back and pull(it helps that I'm 6ft tall, 215lbs, which is why I call it guerilla winching). BTW, if you don't have them, invest in a good pair of sailing gloves, no matter what size gennie you get. The 150% is also excellent downwind, functing like a small asymetrical when you use an adjustible whisker pole. So go for the 150%. Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo
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keith smoot
150% in 24kts
I had a new, never-been-sailed 150 still in the bag when I bought my '87 H-23 in 1996. I know it had not been used because there were no blocks or tracks to run the sheets to. After I installed turning blocks(better to spend more for the tracks), I found what power is. I use the 110% unless I am racing, then I fly the 150. I have raced the 150 in 24kts of wind with the mainsheet fully eased and the boat heeled 20degrees, WOW! Still trying to get my wife to race with me. Forget the furler, the boat and sails are not big enough for that. Install a jib downhaul to quickly drop the headsail and go for it. Trim the headsail of whatever size untill it just touches the lifeline, maby a little looser. Have fun! Funny, my kids (15,22) also call me anal retentive.
I had a new, never-been-sailed 150 still in the bag when I bought my '87 H-23 in 1996. I know it had not been used because there were no blocks or tracks to run the sheets to. After I installed turning blocks(better to spend more for the tracks), I found what power is. I use the 110% unless I am racing, then I fly the 150. I have raced the 150 in 24kts of wind with the mainsheet fully eased and the boat heeled 20degrees, WOW! Still trying to get my wife to race with me. Forget the furler, the boat and sails are not big enough for that. Install a jib downhaul to quickly drop the headsail and go for it. Trim the headsail of whatever size untill it just touches the lifeline, maby a little looser. Have fun! Funny, my kids (15,22) also call me anal retentive.
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Gary Bridi
Question for all
For those of you who use a 135 or a 150, where did you locate your tracks, blocks,etc. so the 135 or 150 clears the lifeline? If anyone has a picture it wouild be greatly appreciated. I have a winged keel H23 (1992 vintage). Thank you. Gary Bridi
For those of you who use a 135 or a 150, where did you locate your tracks, blocks,etc. so the 135 or 150 clears the lifeline? If anyone has a picture it wouild be greatly appreciated. I have a winged keel H23 (1992 vintage). Thank you. Gary Bridi
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Bill Leathen
150 genny
The previous owner of my Hunter 23 wing keel installed a 24" track along the side of the cabin. The forward end of the track starts about midway of the plexiglass window and extends back to about the start of the cockpit. Then he installed a second track from the forward edge of the cockpit. Then he went out and got a 155 mylar genny. It turns out the most aft perfect spot for the movable block was right between these two tracks. So he custom built an allunnum strip with a hole located at the perfect spot and there is a block right there. So in heavy winds and the 155 genny, I use the block in the aluminum strip. In light winds I use the block that goes under the window. I can mail you a picture if you let me know how to get it to you. My email is sleathen@aol.com For the roller furling 100 jib I use a third track that runs along the toe rail. I believe that track is the one the comes with the boat originally and the rest ara all add ons that the previous owner installed. Good Luck.
The previous owner of my Hunter 23 wing keel installed a 24" track along the side of the cabin. The forward end of the track starts about midway of the plexiglass window and extends back to about the start of the cockpit. Then he installed a second track from the forward edge of the cockpit. Then he went out and got a 155 mylar genny. It turns out the most aft perfect spot for the movable block was right between these two tracks. So he custom built an allunnum strip with a hole located at the perfect spot and there is a block right there. So in heavy winds and the 155 genny, I use the block in the aluminum strip. In light winds I use the block that goes under the window. I can mail you a picture if you let me know how to get it to you. My email is sleathen@aol.com For the roller furling 100 jib I use a third track that runs along the toe rail. I believe that track is the one the comes with the boat originally and the rest ara all add ons that the previous owner installed. Good Luck.
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Greg Stebbins
Tracks & blocks on 23
I pulled my track location for the 150 from a Henderson 30 on my dock (Hey, steal from the best). I mounted the tracks directly in front of and center on the winches. I mounted the winches themselves up on teak pedistals. I use shaffer blocks spring mounted on cars. I mounted another 18 inches of track with blocks in line with the 150 track forward toward the orginal jib block for the 135. You have to break the track because of the deck layout on the 23. Go figure. I still use the orginal location of the jib block for the 110 as it's the only jib I can sheet inside the shrouds. I did increase the jib block size to 2.25 inches for strength and easier turning.
I pulled my track location for the 150 from a Henderson 30 on my dock (Hey, steal from the best). I mounted the tracks directly in front of and center on the winches. I mounted the winches themselves up on teak pedistals. I use shaffer blocks spring mounted on cars. I mounted another 18 inches of track with blocks in line with the 150 track forward toward the orginal jib block for the 135. You have to break the track because of the deck layout on the 23. Go figure. I still use the orginal location of the jib block for the 110 as it's the only jib I can sheet inside the shrouds. I did increase the jib block size to 2.25 inches for strength and easier turning.
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Jim Kolstoe
headsail trim
Trimmed in to touching the lifelines? Only if thats appropriate for your appearant wind angle. If you're hard on the wind, you should be able to sheet the 150% inside your lifelines. I sometimes have to manually lift it over because the aft portion of the sail can hangup on the lifelines. Pointing ability comes from being able to bring the sail in laterally. An easy way to correctly trim you sail is to install tell-tails/ streamers/yarns on the sail, then trim so the leeward tell-tails stream back and the windward tell-tails are lifting slightly. For more, try reading "Sail Power," whatever edition its in now. I'll try to get some pics of my track and how the sail works with it. Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo
Trimmed in to touching the lifelines? Only if thats appropriate for your appearant wind angle. If you're hard on the wind, you should be able to sheet the 150% inside your lifelines. I sometimes have to manually lift it over because the aft portion of the sail can hangup on the lifelines. Pointing ability comes from being able to bring the sail in laterally. An easy way to correctly trim you sail is to install tell-tails/ streamers/yarns on the sail, then trim so the leeward tell-tails stream back and the windward tell-tails are lifting slightly. For more, try reading "Sail Power," whatever edition its in now. I'll try to get some pics of my track and how the sail works with it. Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo
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