Upgrading and Bedding Chainplates

[Not Too Shabby]

I'm bedding the new chainplates I bought from CD. I feel good about the steps I have taken so far.

1. Drill into existing 3/8" holes with the 1/2" bit.
2. Dremel out the accessible wooden core inside the perimeter of the 1/2" hole (even though it is still solid as can be).
3. Fill the gap from the grinded-out core with thickened epoxy and let dry for a few hours.
4. Another pass with the 1/2" bit to clear out the excess epoxy.
5. Counter-sink the top of the 1/2" hole with a 3/4" countersink bit.

I'm using Bed-It Tape for the chainplates. I know to wrap some around the top of the shank as one would with all screws. When it comes to the flat portion of the chainplate (that sits atop the deck), should I put a layer on the underside? Or should I let the tape on the shank ooze outward and fill the gap?

Truth be told I've half-way bedded some already and haven't tightened the nuts because I'm concerned I've used too much tape. The chainplates are creating a visible Bed-It Tape sandwich and I suspect that's not ideal. Should I use an amount of tape such that it would appear as though there was no tape used at all?

Here is an example.

 

[Gene Neill]

That is totally normal. It's not really possible to use too much tape. You are doing it perfectly. Tighten the nuts gradually, over a couple days or more if possible. Let the excess squeeze out gradually, then clean it up when full torque is achieved.

Nice work!

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Don't know what the temperatures are like in your neighbourhood but you want the Bed-It to be a little above skin temperature (feels warm to the touch) to make sure the joint is as tight as possible. If not tight as possible, it will creep over time.
Creep = Lose joints = Leakage.

 

[Not Too Shabby]

Thanks Gene!

Don't know what the temperatures are like in your neighbourhood but you want the Bed-It to be a little above skin temperature (feels warm to the touch) to make sure the joint is as tight as possible. If not tight as possible, it will creep over time.
Creep = Lose joints = Leakage.

I did try heating one of the inserted chainplates with a heat gun to see whether it would expedite the oozing when I pushed down upon it (with leather gloves on). I didn't have great results, but I also didn't really give much effort because I didn't want to heat the deck too much. Next week should be back up into the 80s and 90s out here in the San Fernando Valley, which should allow for some follow-up tightening. I do think I'm going to aim for a light coat of tape such that the chainplates are slightly more flush with the deck than in the photo above. I figure it will allow for less revisiting, to tighten, over time.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Try placing the roll of BedIT on a heated seeding mat. Even the smaller ones work well, they're water resistant and can be had for as little as $10-12 on amazon

 

[...3TacksontheWater]

I'm bedding the new chainplates I bought from CD. I feel good about the steps I have taken so far.

1. Drill into existing 3/8" holes with the 1/2" bit.
2. Dremel out the accessible wooden core inside the perimeter of the 1/2" hole (even though it is still solid as can be).
3. Fill the gap from the grinded-out core with thickened epoxy and let dry for a few hours.
4. Another pass with the 1/2" bit to clear out the excess epoxy.
5. Counter-sink the top of the 1/2" hole with a 3/4" countersink bit.

I'm using Bed-It Tape for the chainplates. I know to wrap some around the top of the shank as one would with all screws. When it comes to the flat portion of the chainplate (that sits atop the deck), should I put a layer on the underside? Or should I let the tape on the shank ooze outward and fill the gap?

Truth be told I've half-way bedded some already and haven't tightened the nuts because I'm concerned I've used too much tape. The chainplates are creating a visible Bed-It Tape sandwich and I suspect that's not ideal. Should I use an amount of tape such that it would appear as though there was no tape used at all?

Here is an example.

As Genie Neill said, you are doing fine. For chain plates, mast steps etc, I use enough Bed-It Tape to ensure there is no water ingress. The oozing out of the tape is confirmation of a good seal and very easy to clean up with a plastic razor. The only exception to this is that when I mounted winches, I only sealed around the through deck studs where they pass thorough the deck so that any water that works its way into the winch mechanics would be able to pass out between the winch mounting plate and deck.

I do have a question however, now that you've changed out your chain plates, have you considered changing your rigging, or do you have providence that the rigging is in good condition? Just a thought.

George

 

[Not Too Shabby]

Hey George! Great question.

I wouldn't be surprised if I end up replacing the rigging within the first year after I get my boat on the water. I haven't seen any signs that the standing rigging is in dire need of replacement, but I do like to err on the safe side.

 

[pclarksurf]

my Squished example -- once you get some tension on them-- butyl will squeeze. I put a cone on the screw heads as well.

 

[pclarksurf]

Hey George! Great question.

I wouldn't be surprised if I end up replacing the rigging within the first year after I get my boat on the water. I haven't seen any signs that the standing rigging is in dire need of replacement, but I do like to err on the safe side.

Couple of close ups - funny in a sense because we spend so much time trying not to sink a 45 year old boat the standing rigging gets short shrift for a close inspection. Same with mine-- when I really took a close look at how bad the standing rigging was, I was a bit surprised I didn't have any issues even though I would have said something similar-- no reason to think it was destined for failure. The new vs. old comparisons curled my hair after the fact.