Universal M-25 overheating - looking for troubleshooting tips

Dec 31, 2020
31
Catalina 30 Gig Harbor
Hi all. Mechanical relative newbie here. I bought a 1987 Catalina 30 MK II late last year. Recently discovered that the Oberdorfer raw water pump was weeping - bad seal. Removed hoses, undid the four bolts, installed a brand new pump with the appropriate gasket. (Didn’t trust myself to do a good job of rebuilding the pump myself; opted to have that done when the shop can get to it, and then I’ll have a spare.) All tight, no leaks, engine runs, cooling water spurting out with the exhaust as it should. My first marine diesel repair job.

I can’t see how the above could relate to my new issue, but since I know squat and that pump replacement was the most recent change, I thought I should mention it.

New issue: while I was running the engine the next day to double check all was well after my pump replacement, the engine quickly overheated - at 1,000 rpm, then at idle. Never even put it under load. Climbed up to 220+ degrees, cabin smelled like hot coolant, had to shut it down.

What gives? Owner of a local mechanic shop that works with universal diesels assured me that if water is going out the exhaust then the seawater side is good. He added, maybe the coolant is not filled and vented properly. So it would seem like this overheating is a separate issue.

Thermostat faulty? The gent from whom I bought the boat (who’s been a big help in getting me oriented) says that the thermostat is pretty new - when the engine was rebuilt a year ago they installed new thermostat, starter and alternator. I need to learn how to confirm whether it’s kicking on when it should.

One likely relevant detail: I’ve been noticing small drips of coolant in the bilge under the engine. I thought I had it tracked down earlier, a hose clamp needed retightening one one end of the short hose between block and heat exchanger. But yesterday after I had to shut down due to overheating, I saw a bit of coolant, maybe a spoonful, had come out of a hose labeled pressure release.

Only other detail I can provide is that the coolant reservoir bottle shows just a hair (1/8”) below the Full line. Now I think of it, I don’t recall that changing at all while the engine was running. Could that be an indication that it’s after all just a sticky thermostat?

Well, that’s where the situation lies for now. Any troubleshooting help would be hugely appreciated. I’ve read some posts here and there that talk about possibly needing to “burp” the coolant lines, not sure whether that’s my issue or how it’s done.
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,770
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Immediate overheating even at idle usually means you have to burp the coolant system. You have air in the coolant side of the engine. Could be from the leak. The smallest amount of air will do that. Here's how:
Engine Overheating 101 - How to Burp Your Engine (Reply #6) Engine overheating problem (with Instructions "How To Burp!")

Congratulations on your pump replacement, good work. It was one of the first things I did when we bought our boast in 1998!

You might be interested in ALL of the links here:

Engines 101 - The BIGGEST & BEST collection of M25 Series Universal Engine Information on the Internet, plus some M35, too :)

Diesel Engine - c34.org

There two links come from: 101 Topics --- "101" Series - Quick Links to "Popular" Topics includes "Electrical Systems 101"

Read the Critical Upgrades topic, included therein, also.

Good luck.
 
Jul 5, 2011
702
Oday 28 Madison, CT
Mine (though an M12) overheated (though not more than 195 degrees) years ago and it turned out to be the heat exchanger, so not sure if I would trust "if it is passing water, it is ok" statement. When you installed the new water pump did you see broken impeller teeth on the old one? Did you remove both ends of the hose to heat exchanger and check for broken off teeth or other junk inside? Did you pull the cover off that end of the heat exchanger? Would do all that before investing in any other repair/parts.
 
Dec 31, 2020
31
Catalina 30 Gig Harbor
Interesting. Update on the situation is that coolant level had declined enough to absorb an air bubble which caused a blockage. After topping off, I followed the manual instructions - warmed up the engine past 180 to kick the thermostat on, then opened the petcock on top of the thermostat housing (highest point) and revved the engine briefly to 3,000 rpm several times. Air burped out past the petcock, temp settled back to 170.
What I haven’t yet gotten to the bottom of, is where that coolant is going (had to give it another half cup to today to top it back up). It’s not dripping anywhere I can see, not showing up in the bilge, not collecting in the expansion bottle, not in the engine oil either. Could the heat exchanger be figuring into this somehow? Also I’d better take a look at the impeller in the old pump, hadn’t done that yet (it was fairly new, but I should still examine it).
Thanks!
 

RoyS

.
Jun 3, 2012
1,742
Hunter 33 Steamboat Wharf, Hull, MA
As Stu said above, you probably need to burp the cooling system. To make this simple in the future, purchase an appropriately sized "Radiator Flush Fitting" from an auto supply house. Fit it up high in the hose that joins the engine block to the exhaust manifold (assuming your engine is like mine). When you change your antifreeze in the future use this fitting to release the air trapped in there and you will not have this problem again. Also aids in emptying the block when replacing antifreeze. I will post a link.
 
Jan 19, 2010
1,171
Catalina 34 Casco Bay
Stu stole my thunder... If you have an engine heated water heater, the hose that run down to it can be problematic. Acquire an irrigating syringe, pour your premixed antifreeze into a disposable cup and draw up antifreeze into the syringe. Remove BOTH of the hoses that go to the water heater. Hold them together at the same height. Place the syringe into one hose and inject the antifreeze until it comes out of the other. Reinstall the hoses.
It might also be advantageous to replace that not so old thermostat. Over heating can cook them. When the gooseneck is open to replace the thermostat there should be antifreeze right there. If not, use the syringe to fill this as well.
 
Oct 29, 2016
1,915
Hunter 41 DS Port Huron
Do you have white smoke out your exhaust? indicating a head gasket issue. Grab a sample of the expelled water out the exhaust and see what it smells like, or test its specific gravity against plain water.
 

RoyS

.
Jun 3, 2012
1,742
Hunter 33 Steamboat Wharf, Hull, MA
Your M25 may have a bleed fitting already.
m25.jpg