I'm going to put my GoPro camera on a pole for hull/zinc etc inspections but probably need some light. Any suggestions for a CHEAP waterproof light to mount on the pole? Will only be couple times/yr...
Underwater inspection light
- Thread starter Mark Maulden
- Start date
If the water in your neck of the woods is warm enough you could just jump in and likely feel the zinc with your foot and never get your head wet. I do the same when at anchor. Wear a swim shoe if the prop has sharp edges.
For a more analytical appoarch, connect the positive lead of your digital volt meter to the prop shaft inside the boat and the negative lead to a zinc hanging over the side in the water. If there is less than 0.5 volts the your zinc is doing its job. More than 0.5 volts and it needs to be replaced or is gone if you get close to 1.0 volts.
For a more analytical appoarch, connect the positive lead of your digital volt meter to the prop shaft inside the boat and the negative lead to a zinc hanging over the side in the water. If there is less than 0.5 volts the your zinc is doing its job. More than 0.5 volts and it needs to be replaced or is gone if you get close to 1.0 volts.
No shaft as its a saildrive and temp is ~ 47 deg so you wont find me jumping in at least without a good suit. Would also like to look at the slime level so i dont abrade the paint to much with a brush I'm going to make. In the northern waters, i dont know if a 50 lumen light would work or is a 2000 lumen light needed or ??
I agree, the small halogen dive lights are super bright, which is probably needed if the water has any coloration to it.
providing you do NOT get the HID model, a regular dive light will work as a waterproof utility flashlight for use on a stormy night.
most of the HID models need to be submerged in water or they will overheat...
there are LED dive lights now that can rival the HID lights, yet operate much cooler, but you mentioned that you wanted cheap...
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Oh for crying out loud, put on a mask and jump over the side. Probably fall in anyway trying to maneuver whatever contraption you come up with.
Heck , go low tech.
Heck , go low tech.
Try this and maybe already available for scuba.
http://www.scuba.com/scuba-gear-31/026553/Scuba-Mini-U-Beam-5-L.E.D.-Dive-Light..html
Good idea.!
Jim...
http://www.scuba.com/scuba-gear-31/026553/Scuba-Mini-U-Beam-5-L.E.D.-Dive-Light..html
Good idea.!
Jim...
Another argument against the high-tech approach - I tried using the GoPro remote control app. It shows a live feed on your phone or tablet screen of whatever your GoPro is looking at. Unfortunately as soon as I stuck the camera underwater it lost wifi communication with the remote.
Brad
Brad
Mark: I agree that our water is too cold. I also think you will need a light. One option is an old sealed beam car headlight. Connect it to 12 volts and it is ready to go with tons of light. It will need plenty of duct tape to keep it on your stick because it will try to float. Also just start your camera recording and go slow. You are bound to see what you are looking for during your playback.
Having said all that, I haven't tried it so may be completely wrong. It's just a cheap thing to try. Please let us know how it works.
Ken
Having said all that, I haven't tried it so may be completely wrong. It's just a cheap thing to try. Please let us know how it works.
Ken
I recently bought the Vexilar FishPhone. Color/B&W video and stills, all controlled via WiFi with an app on your phone. Mounted on a telescoping pole, it is now my most used underwater camera system. About $270.Another argument against the high-tech approach - I tried using the GoPro remote control app. It shows a live feed on your phone or tablet screen of whatever your GoPro is looking at. Unfortunately as soon as I stuck the camera underwater it lost wifi communication with the remote.
https://shop.vexilar.com/en/fishphone-1/fishphone-camera-system-complete-fp100
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The headlight would be sealed, but the 12V connection wouldn't be (unless he spent a lot of effort waterproofing the connections). The results may be shocking :O
The car seal beam works well. Just spray the wire connection to the two metal prongs with a rubber or plastic coating. Give it three coats to make sure all exposed metal is covered. The plastic dip or spray they use for tools or roof patch (tar) works well. Turn it on after placing in the water (never hot.) I would counter weight it too so it has neutral buoyancy and maybe use a short piece of 6" PVC pipe to glue it into (general goop form Home Depot or ace). You can also bore a small 3/4 or 1" hole through both sides of the PVC behind the end of the light and stick a 8 foot piece of PVC to use as a handle and it can be used to keep the wires out of harms way.
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Time you pay for a sealed beam headlight, you can just buy a cheapo LED waterproof flashlight. Most are under 20 bucks and a lot less messing around. Walmart has several that will work. Even though they may only advertise water resistant, they will probably be just fine at the depths you are talking about. Even if they leak, as long as you open it up and dry it out afterword, it shouldn't hurt it any. At those low operating voltages, the water is not going to conduct enough current to do any damage.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,145
Mark. I use my gopro attached to my boat pole. Duct tape a flashlight to the articulating arm. Stick it in the water and walk around the boat filming the bottom. Pull out of the water and play back the film. It's cold enough here in PacNW that I'm not swimming in the marina. It gives me a good general look at the bottom. It is no microscope. If I do not like the look I call my diver Chris to brush the boat bottom. He does an onsite inspection.
Due to the small area of exposed conductor and the relatively poor conductivity of salt water, only a few milliamps would find their way into the water. Corrosion also would not be an issue with the limited time it would be in the water. If you were really concerned you could always smear some grease exposed metal conductors.
Ken