Traveler Bar replacement -- Has anyone succeeded?

[pclarksurf]

Looking for feedback if you have actually attempted and succeeded in replacing the stock traveler bar on the early series boats:

1) I'm not willing to cut the inspection holes
2) I can get all over the aft access areas -- so getting there is more than doable

What I can't confirm is the presumed nut on the bar ends. No camera lens I have will get that close to the transom to look straight up and that includes my eyeballs.

I'm making the assumption from previous photos by others and the cut up versions I've see photos of that a 1/2 extension (long) with a wobbly would make contact -- curious if anyone has tried and either bailed or succeeded? I may have inadvertently done myself a disservice when I replace the cockpit floor. I let it run a bit long and it's obscuring the already narrow transom gap. I should be able to hog out an inspection port of sorts and at least get back the native tolerances in line with the nut(s).

 

[LakeShark]

I have not heard of anyone succeeding but I have also wondered if it was possible using the tools you described. While I cant be much help with the how to portion here is at least picture of the parts and hardware you'll be trying to remove / reattach. Most cut the access holes and use little vents to hide the holes.

 

[Stu Jackson]

1) I'm not willing to cut the inspection holes
2) I can get all over the aft access areas -- so getting there is more than doable

I had a C22 and know what you are describing.

What I am having difficulty with is the fact that the preferred soltuion is one you refuse to do, and then say you do have access but go on to say that because you extended the cockpit sole you don't. Which is it? Why not bite the bullet and do what 40 years of skippers before you have figured out is the pretty much ONLY way to do it?

 

[LakeShark]

I had a C22 and know what you are describing.

Why not bite the bullet and do what 40 years of skippers before you have figured out is the pretty much ONLY way to do it?

Be careful with this idea. Just because most skippers cut holes does not mean its the best way or the only way. A perfect example is rebedding or replacing the upper rudder grugeon. Most skippers cut a large circular hole in the back of the cockpit to access the brass plate in the transom. However the easier solution is to simply use some threaded rod in 2 of the holes to hold the plate while you remove the screws/ I cringe everytime I see someone cut a 6 inch hole in their cockpit to do such a simple job even if it is what many have done for 40+ years.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Good point, Lake Shark. But could it be you are comparing apples and oranges? Yes, your example is pefect of thinking how to do something without destructive demolition, but do you have a solution for his completely different "project" which is well night on inaccessible otherwise?

 

[pclarksurf]

Largely the crux of my question-- if there is sufficient evidence that it can be done albeit with a little extra sweat and swearing I will entertain it as an alternative to the known. I have choices -- I don't technically even need to replace the bar which has been drilled for a later model X track with what is now a garbage traveler car. I have to weigh the reality of replacement (via either methodology ) with the usability of what is at hand.

My cockpit floor overrun is minor -- nothing I can't relieve quite easily from the bottom up should the extension route prove to be viable.

@LakeShark -- yep just cringe every time I think about another hole. Avoided it with a now twice replaced gudgeon, just examining every option before I commit one way or the other.

My wacknoodle traveler:

 

[LakeShark]

@pclarksurf why not just try to reach up there with a socket and see if you can get ahold of it. With the right wobbly and if there is enough clearance I would try it first. 15 min of contortion is worth it to alleviate the days (in my case) of agonising over making another hole in the boat.

On another note if the traveler is not loose why not just use what you have? You can always get a new traveler car from CD for about $50 which seems worth it to avoid the headache. I have the New design and it looks like someone drilled out your old bar to "upgrade" at one time. In your shoes I would add a stop to the other side of the track somehow, get a new car, and go for it. The dang thing is so short the traveler really only comes into play if your trying to eek every bit of performance out of the boat.

 

[pclarksurf]

Pretty much the path @LakeShark — went with a replacement bar if the existing proves troublesome— got a new old style car to match and will likely get some long extensions ordered in. I’m always for trying--

Amazon to the rescue-- we'll see:

 

[Grotto]

The traveler on the 22 is not really that useful. i would almost just build a split bridle for the main sheet like lightnings have ( but with stronger rope) and some mods as this is thru-deck. More than likely not legal for class racing.

 

[LakeShark]

Pretty much the path @LakeShark — went with a replacement bar if the existing proves troublesome— got a new old style car to match and will likely get some long extensions ordered in. I’m always for trying--

Amazon to the rescue-- we'll see:

View attachment 194067

Did this ever work? Just wondering how you made out?

 

[pclarksurf]

Did this ever work?

Partial-- I ordered the new traveler and it is backordered so I didn't get it in hand immediately. I removed all the XTrack that the PO had put on and stripped back to the bare bar (now with holes). Was able to emery cloth my way to a smooth surface and gave the new /old style traveler car a go-- most successful.

I did learn at least that the Starboard nut is actually darn near reachable by hand from under he Starboard Laz from the cockpit-- no extension necessary. The goofy part appears to be the port nut-- it literally feels like the gap in the transom is narrower toward the bar/top of the transom and might just force me into the bilge with the 1/4 extension (much thinner).

For the moment at least my biggest problem is remediated-- the track and car are gone and replaced with something sturdy that will stand up to decent loads.