Transom Scuppers - Catalina Direct Alternative

[Monheganlover]

I was going to go with the Catalina Direct kit until I saw the price. I recently got rid of the the scary looking brass pipe nipple apparatus the cockpit drains of my '76 Cat 22 previously went to. I installed two proper thru-hulls (using a CD kit), one for each of the drains, on the flats around the volcano as recommended with tubes crossed and the previous hole filled and glassed over. So I am comfortable drilling into the transom now.

But even with my new cockpit drains, there is still the risk of drains fouling and my boat sinking. So I would like to go with an affordable alternative to the CD scupper option. I have seen DIY scupper installs in Google searches and would like some feedback on this plan:

1. Buy good scuppers from West Marine of the right diameter to quickly drain the cockpit.
2. Buy hole saw of proper diameter
3. Add tape over approximate area of scupper install
4. Best as I can, mark hole location by drawing circle around scupper on each side on the tape, on as level a plane as possible and as close to the cockpit floor as possible such that the flange of the scupper will fit.
5. Mark the center of each hole
6. Drill a pilot hole first starting from the inside
5. Once the pilot hole is drilled, chuck the hole saw and drill one half of the way from the inside of cockpit out and reverse from the rear of the transom following the pilot hole. If I follow the pilot hole the holes should match up.
6. Epoxy inside of holes, let cure.
7. Install scuppers from outside in using a proper marine sealant and tighten nuts from inside.

But something is bugging me. The CD kit comes with wooden squares one is supposed to place in the "void" between inner and outer fiberglass layers in the transom. It is vague online as to why one should do this...reinforcement I guess, but, presumably, it is necessary. What is totally unclear to me is if you are supposed to drill through those wood squares when drilling through the transom after epoxying the squares into place somehow. So these questions:

1. How are you supposed to fit the squares in the void in the first place? From the lazarette?
2. In a popular online post from a gentleman who just installed PVC pipe for his scuppers, it doesn't mention anything about putting anything in that void. Why would CD recommend that for brass scuppers and why would you not do that for PVC?
3. If I installed my West Marine marlon scuppers would I need to put reinforcement in the void and drill through it as in the CD kit?

The DIY option seems reasonably doable and a a lot more affordable. I don't worry too much about the aesthetics of it.

Any answers, advice or suggestions deeply appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[CCrane2299]

Just a guess, but you mention tightening the WM scuppers...the PVC just slides through the hole and requires no tightening, and perhaps, no filler.

 

[fhp3]

I installed the CD suppers in my C22 and the reason for the wood is when you use the tool to compress the scupper, you need the wood so that fiberglass won't collapse. The tool rolls the edge of the scupper for a nice clean fit.
The wood needs to be epoxied in place to fill the void between the cockpit and transom.
I don't know how well the pvc pipe would work and since there would be no compression I guess the wood would not be needed.
One thing to note is if you rent CDs tool you need to put a $300 deposit down and return it within 2 weeks of receiving it.
If not then you pay a large late fee. Call them up and they will explain everything.
Good luck!

 

[agprice22]

Check out this site. You can buy the brass tubes and the flanging tool for $50.00. Once you own the tool, you can loan it to me!

1" flanging tool: ~ $39.00
1x3 tube: ~ 5.00 each

http://www.shipstore.com/search?search=1-1/4+inch+drain+tube

Thanks,

Andrew

 

[Bilbo]

The wood filler epoxied in place helps to keep the scupper's flanged edges from leaking as the boat's hull and hull liner flexes. the metal ones are more durable.My new style from '87 has transom scuppers which are basically the same as the kit and they are still in fine shape.

 

[Monheganlover]

Thanks but to ask what might be a dumb question, how do you access the void to epoxy the wood in in the first place. Can you get to it from the lazarette's? I don't imagine there is any other way. And, then do you drill through the wood when you drill your holes?

Thanks!

I installed the CD suppers in my C22 and the reason for the wood is when you use the tool to compress the scupper, you need the wood so that fiberglass won't collapse. The tool rolls the edge of the scupper for a nice clean fit.
The wood needs to be epoxied in place to fill the void between the cockpit and transom.
I don't know how well the pvc pipe would work and since there would be no compression I guess the wood would not be needed.
One thing to note is if you rent CDs tool you need to put a $300 deposit down and return it within 2 weeks of receiving it.
If not then you pay a large late fee. Call them up and they will explain everything.
Good luck!

 

[fhp3]

Thanks but to ask what might be a dumb question, how do you access the void to epoxy the wood in in the first place. Can you get to it from the lazarette's? I don't imagine there is any other way. And, then do you drill through the wood when you drill your holes?

Thanks!

Yes you get to the void from the lazarettes. Pre-fit all the wood pieces before thinking about epoxy. It's a messy job and not the easiest place to work in.

Once the wood is epoxied in you drill through the transom and into the wood. A pilot hole really helps to line things up.
I'll try to take some pics for you.

 

[Bilbo]

Yes you get to the void from the lazarettes. Pre-fit all the wood pieces before thinking about epoxy. It's a messy job and not the easiest place to work in.

Once the wood is epoxied in you drill through the transom and into the wood. A pilot hole really helps to line things up.
I'll try to take some pics for you.

I would also consider applying a coating of the epoxy to the wood hole after it's drilled to prevent rot later.