I am planning on installing hydraulic drum brakes on my 1985 Magic Tilt trialer in preparation for a 1000 mile trip. I have two question: First, how does one run the brake line in such a way as to accomodate the extendable tongue? Second, is a 3500lb axel sufficient for this single axel trailer? Thanks for your input...
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John Thomas
Axle change
I was not sure of the axle strength on the trailor for my 1986 23. I had been told that it was actually only a 2500 lb axle (mine was a square cross section about 2 inches on each side). So I replaced it with a 3500 drop axle. It got the boat about 4-5 inches lower in the water for launching and loading, cut down on the drag while towing and gave me more confidence in the trailor itself. I too considered installing brakes since I had to get new hubs anyway but decided it was too expensive for me. I do believe they are a very good idea though and may be the law in some places...good luck...jthomas @access1.com
I was not sure of the axle strength on the trailor for my 1986 23. I had been told that it was actually only a 2500 lb axle (mine was a square cross section about 2 inches on each side). So I replaced it with a 3500 drop axle. It got the boat about 4-5 inches lower in the water for launching and loading, cut down on the drag while towing and gave me more confidence in the trailor itself. I too considered installing brakes since I had to get new hubs anyway but decided it was too expensive for me. I do believe they are a very good idea though and may be the law in some places...good luck...jthomas @access1.com
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Rick Webb
Howdy, Dan
I used to live out in Lakeway, I sure miss it. Is the difference with the disk brakes cost prohibitive? I was thinking of converting the drums on my 23.5 to disks. Seemed like it would much easier to keep clean and to maintain. The extension on mine is taken care of by a rubber brake line that is folded back and forth a couple of times while the extension is retracted. Mine has a 3500# axle but I drop a 1000# after I pull out of the water too. If there are any 23.5s or 240s around check out their trailers. I suspect that it would be adequate, just. Of course if you leave all the Shiner in the truck instead of the boat that will save you a few hundred pounds as well.
I used to live out in Lakeway, I sure miss it. Is the difference with the disk brakes cost prohibitive? I was thinking of converting the drums on my 23.5 to disks. Seemed like it would much easier to keep clean and to maintain. The extension on mine is taken care of by a rubber brake line that is folded back and forth a couple of times while the extension is retracted. Mine has a 3500# axle but I drop a 1000# after I pull out of the water too. If there are any 23.5s or 240s around check out their trailers. I suspect that it would be adequate, just. Of course if you leave all the Shiner in the truck instead of the boat that will save you a few hundred pounds as well.
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Alan Long
Extending tongue
Hi Dan On the later model trailers there is a section of flexible rubber brake line between the master cylinder and the trailer. This section is long enough to allow for the tongue to extend. When the tongue is retracted the excess line is coiled up and stuffed into a holder that is welded to the trailer frame. This works pretty well, but you have to be careful of chafing the rubber part when hitching and unhitching. My axle is a 3500 lb one and seems barely adequate for my 23.5, tandems would be much better. Good luck, I recently replaced the brakes on my 23.5 trailer. Check out Championtrailers.com for all the parts you will need. Alan Long S/V Random Access
Hi Dan On the later model trailers there is a section of flexible rubber brake line between the master cylinder and the trailer. This section is long enough to allow for the tongue to extend. When the tongue is retracted the excess line is coiled up and stuffed into a holder that is welded to the trailer frame. This works pretty well, but you have to be careful of chafing the rubber part when hitching and unhitching. My axle is a 3500 lb one and seems barely adequate for my 23.5, tandems would be much better. Good luck, I recently replaced the brakes on my 23.5 trailer. Check out Championtrailers.com for all the parts you will need. Alan Long S/V Random Access
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Rick Webb
An additional thought
With tandem axles you can get away with a smaller diameter wheel making the boat that much closer to the water when launching. I would like to add another axle to my trailer. Until I move it more than an occasional five miles at a time it will have to wait. Anybody out there done this already and have any thoughts they would like to share? Dan, if you would like some pictures and can wait a few weeks till I get back from the Azores I would be happy to send them to you.
With tandem axles you can get away with a smaller diameter wheel making the boat that much closer to the water when launching. I would like to add another axle to my trailer. Until I move it more than an occasional five miles at a time it will have to wait. Anybody out there done this already and have any thoughts they would like to share? Dan, if you would like some pictures and can wait a few weeks till I get back from the Azores I would be happy to send them to you.
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Dan
Thank you for the help...
Thanks for all of your helpful comments. I had considered going with 2 axles (having heard some mention of this in the archives) but decided that this was to expensive for me. I have found a decent price on a galv. drum brake kit for 3500lb axles and am considering this option. I had not heard of the rubber brake tubing for the tongue, but this sounds like the best solution. How long of a section of rubber (kevlar) brake tubing to you use? Does the rubber line start at the master cylinder? Finally, does this rubber line run inside the tongue or along the outside?
Thanks for all of your helpful comments. I had considered going with 2 axles (having heard some mention of this in the archives) but decided that this was to expensive for me. I have found a decent price on a galv. drum brake kit for 3500lb axles and am considering this option. I had not heard of the rubber brake tubing for the tongue, but this sounds like the best solution. How long of a section of rubber (kevlar) brake tubing to you use? Does the rubber line start at the master cylinder? Finally, does this rubber line run inside the tongue or along the outside?
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Alan Long
Brake line
Hi again, Dan The rubber line starts at the master cylinder and connects to the end of the metal brake lines a foot or two back onto the chassis of the trailer. Its total length would be the distance from the master cylinder to the end of the metal brake lines plus the distance that the togue extends. If memory serves me (and it usually doesn't) it is about 6 feet total. Mine is loosely attached to the outside of the trailer tongue with plastic wire ties. By the way....spring for the stainless steel brake lines, it is well worth the cost. Alan
Hi again, Dan The rubber line starts at the master cylinder and connects to the end of the metal brake lines a foot or two back onto the chassis of the trailer. Its total length would be the distance from the master cylinder to the end of the metal brake lines plus the distance that the togue extends. If memory serves me (and it usually doesn't) it is about 6 feet total. Mine is loosely attached to the outside of the trailer tongue with plastic wire ties. By the way....spring for the stainless steel brake lines, it is well worth the cost. Alan
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John Larsen
Extendable Brake Line
The extendable tongue on the trailer for my H25 is attached to the side of the main (permanent) tongue. The brakes lines are attached to the permanent tongue and are solid metal tubing. The extenbable tongue is independent of the permanent tongue and brake lines. Gotta be concerned with flexible brake lines and extendable tongue. Only another way for problems waiting to happen when a flexible brake line moves when it shouldn't.
The extendable tongue on the trailer for my H25 is attached to the side of the main (permanent) tongue. The brakes lines are attached to the permanent tongue and are solid metal tubing. The extenbable tongue is independent of the permanent tongue and brake lines. Gotta be concerned with flexible brake lines and extendable tongue. Only another way for problems waiting to happen when a flexible brake line moves when it shouldn't.
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Jon Bastien
New Brake lines
Hello Dan, I had to replace the flexible hose on my H23 trailer about a year ago, after the original hose sprung a leak. Unfortunately, I had a hard time finding anyone who would put together a 6' length of flexible brake hose; Most automotive brake shops won't touch it (insurance reasons), Auto parts stores aren't much help unless you have part numbers, and there weren't any hydraulic parts manufacturers in my area (These are the people who would custom-build a high-pressure hose). What I ended up doing was going to the auto parts store to find three short sections of brake hose (approx. 1 foot each) with standard brake couplers on either end, and two peices of standard brake line (about 2 feet each), and coupling all this together in the following order: Master cylinder - Flexible hose - Brake line - Hose - Brake line - Hose - fixed trailer brake line on trailer. With the tongue extended, the line is about 3" too long, but does not drag on the ground at all. When the toungue is shortened, I have to remember to lift up on the center section of hose to prevent crimping, but it folds itself into an upside-down "V" shape that I attach to my trailer winch with a short bungee cord. So far, I haven't had any problems with this arrangement; Unfortunately, I didn't write down all the part numbers so I'm going to have to play "search the shelves" at my local auto parts store again when this rig wears out. I'll post pictures if you're interested... --Jon Bastien H23 '2 Sheets to the Wind'
Hello Dan, I had to replace the flexible hose on my H23 trailer about a year ago, after the original hose sprung a leak. Unfortunately, I had a hard time finding anyone who would put together a 6' length of flexible brake hose; Most automotive brake shops won't touch it (insurance reasons), Auto parts stores aren't much help unless you have part numbers, and there weren't any hydraulic parts manufacturers in my area (These are the people who would custom-build a high-pressure hose). What I ended up doing was going to the auto parts store to find three short sections of brake hose (approx. 1 foot each) with standard brake couplers on either end, and two peices of standard brake line (about 2 feet each), and coupling all this together in the following order: Master cylinder - Flexible hose - Brake line - Hose - Brake line - Hose - fixed trailer brake line on trailer. With the tongue extended, the line is about 3" too long, but does not drag on the ground at all. When the toungue is shortened, I have to remember to lift up on the center section of hose to prevent crimping, but it folds itself into an upside-down "V" shape that I attach to my trailer winch with a short bungee cord. So far, I haven't had any problems with this arrangement; Unfortunately, I didn't write down all the part numbers so I'm going to have to play "search the shelves" at my local auto parts store again when this rig wears out. I'll post pictures if you're interested... --Jon Bastien H23 '2 Sheets to the Wind'
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