I've been prepping my new-to-me I-30 and need to run a cable or two up the steering pedestal for the GPS unit. I removed the compass and have been completely stymied by the bolts holding the compass base to the pedestal bowl. Teasingly, one bolt came out fairly easily. It's about four inches long with the bottom two inches threaded and has a flat head. The other three are pretty much welded in! I've tried dousing the entire visible lengths in ProBlast and have even used an impact screwdriver to no avail. Any secret tips on breaking through?
Stuck bolts on Edson pedestal
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There have been many an Edson pedestal ruined by seized compass bolts. Be very careful you don't break them off. They are very hard to drill because they go into the aluminum so far. If the SS work hardens from drilling then the pedestal will need removal and either replacement or some custom machine shop work.
The problem is that the ss bolts virtually weld themselves to the aluminum. If it did not come free with an impact screw driver then it may be too far gone. My best trick is a battery power impact driver. Penetrating oils don't seem to do squat for this type of corrosion.
Was this an impact screw driver you hit with a hammer or a battery operated drill type impact driver?
The problem is that the ss bolts virtually weld themselves to the aluminum. If it did not come free with an impact screw driver then it may be too far gone. My best trick is a battery power impact driver. Penetrating oils don't seem to do squat for this type of corrosion.
Was this an impact screw driver you hit with a hammer or a battery operated drill type impact driver?
Try an Impact drill/driver type.... The fast impulses / pulses tend to break things free better. PLEASE be very careful as these tools can snap bolts very, very easily....
Be very careful with heat
Aluminum alloys melt at around 1200 degrees give or take a little depending on the alloy. The aluminum is heat treated and tempered at much lower temperatures. You probably don't want to apply more than about 375 degrees F to the aluminum or risk reducing the strength of the aluminum. You probably should limit heat application to a heat gun on the low setting to be safe. These still get to 500 degrees but the aluminum will conduct the heat away from the area of application so the actual part may be a little lower than the temperature of the heat gun.
Success!
Last weekend I finally conquered the beast! I drilled out the tops of the screw heads with a 3/8 inch bit using some 3-in-1 oil as a cutting oil. That allowed me to lift off the collar holding the engine control arms. (Side note: while removing the clevis pins connecting the control arms, I managed to drop one down the pedestal. It's a 5/32 diameter pin--not commonly found in West Marine and the like. Just an FYI for other klutzes). That exposed the tops of the screws. Using a mini pipe wrench I bought for $3 at Harbor Freight, I was able to loosen and remove the three remaining screws I had. I then made the cable cutouts that are under the collar a little wider with a saws-all so that I could place my GPS cables. Some Lanacote on the new screws and she's all in one piece again!
Last weekend I finally conquered the beast! I drilled out the tops of the screw heads with a 3/8 inch bit using some 3-in-1 oil as a cutting oil. That allowed me to lift off the collar holding the engine control arms. (Side note: while removing the clevis pins connecting the control arms, I managed to drop one down the pedestal. It's a 5/32 diameter pin--not commonly found in West Marine and the like. Just an FYI for other klutzes). That exposed the tops of the screws. Using a mini pipe wrench I bought for $3 at Harbor Freight, I was able to loosen and remove the three remaining screws I had. I then made the cable cutouts that are under the collar a little wider with a saws-all so that I could place my GPS cables. Some Lanacote on the new screws and she's all in one piece again!
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