I appreciated all your suggestions on rudder replacement on our H31; they truly helped. Now, if any of you have actually installed spinnaker hardware on your boat I like to hear from you. I have the hardware in hand but need to discuss placement of same. Please email me directly (Unless you think the info would be useful to others.) Thanks. Dave Winiker DWiniker@aol.com
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It's always useful to others!
if the info is posted here, the next 31 owner sturggling with hardware placement could search the archives for 'spinnaker hardware' on the H-31 and find this thread. Now, that said, I have no answers. But someone will! ph.
if the info is posted here, the next 31 owner sturggling with hardware placement could search the archives for 'spinnaker hardware' on the H-31 and find this thread. Now, that said, I have no answers. But someone will! ph.
Cruiser, or full spinnaker, Dave
The cruising spinnaker (we bought a Doyle Cruiser a couple of years ago) is simple: 1. Block for the halyard mounted forward of the forestay - usually on a bail mounted above/ahead of the jib block. 2. Tack attachment forward, ahead of any other rigging. We just attach the tack line to the toerail on the opposite side, usually with one wrap around the top pulpit rail to get a desired angle. If you want to change luff tension from the cockpit, you could mount a permanent block and run a line back to the cockpit. Lots of clutter and work for a low pay-off. Cruising, you have to go forward to set up the sail anyway. Racing, there is always a hand to tend the sail forward. 3. Turning blocks at the stern. I have snatch blocks to simplify rigging, and mount them on the aft end of the toe rail. Life line rings are another mounting alternative. From there, the line comes nicely to the jib sheet winch. 4. Dousing sock cleat on the mast. Most of us have a cleat we can use there to hold the sock up while the sail is deployed. That's it for an asymetrical cruising spinnaker. For a full spinnaker you will also need: 5. Attachment for the spinnaker pole on the leading edge of the mast. This can be a simple ring fitting (I'm not sure how high - shoulder height is what I remember, but it probably depends on the cut of the sail.) A track that allows you to move the inboard end of the pole up or down depending on the set of the sail is common. 6. Topping lift block. This goes on the front edge of the mast. My memory would be to mount it below the forestay so you can swing it under the forestay to the other side while gybing. Even if you didn't get the sail from a local sailmaker, you might be surprised how much help one would give you anyway, in hopes of future business. Most have a handout describing the rigging better than I have. David Lady Lillie
The cruising spinnaker (we bought a Doyle Cruiser a couple of years ago) is simple: 1. Block for the halyard mounted forward of the forestay - usually on a bail mounted above/ahead of the jib block. 2. Tack attachment forward, ahead of any other rigging. We just attach the tack line to the toerail on the opposite side, usually with one wrap around the top pulpit rail to get a desired angle. If you want to change luff tension from the cockpit, you could mount a permanent block and run a line back to the cockpit. Lots of clutter and work for a low pay-off. Cruising, you have to go forward to set up the sail anyway. Racing, there is always a hand to tend the sail forward. 3. Turning blocks at the stern. I have snatch blocks to simplify rigging, and mount them on the aft end of the toe rail. Life line rings are another mounting alternative. From there, the line comes nicely to the jib sheet winch. 4. Dousing sock cleat on the mast. Most of us have a cleat we can use there to hold the sock up while the sail is deployed. That's it for an asymetrical cruising spinnaker. For a full spinnaker you will also need: 5. Attachment for the spinnaker pole on the leading edge of the mast. This can be a simple ring fitting (I'm not sure how high - shoulder height is what I remember, but it probably depends on the cut of the sail.) A track that allows you to move the inboard end of the pole up or down depending on the set of the sail is common. 6. Topping lift block. This goes on the front edge of the mast. My memory would be to mount it below the forestay so you can swing it under the forestay to the other side while gybing. Even if you didn't get the sail from a local sailmaker, you might be surprised how much help one would give you anyway, in hopes of future business. Most have a handout describing the rigging better than I have. David Lady Lillie
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