I'm racing in non-spinnaker fleet, but want to enter the spinnaker fleet for the Labor Day Ragatta. The "Narrow Escape" is a 1981 H25 with Neil Pryde crusing spinnaker and whisker pole; there is only a pad-eye on the mast for the whisker pole and no topping lift. I want to install a car and a topping lift on the mast for adjusting the pole - any suggestions or helpful hints? Mainly - how do I bolt the car and the topping lift block to the mast? Thanks for any help! Michael O'
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Dick Vance
Pop Rivets
Michael, I mounted the padeye for the topping lift block on the mast of my 25.5 by drilling holes and using stainless pop-rivets to hold it. It has held up fine for 5 years of hard racing. I would also suggest a down haul for the pole as wind gusts tend to place a lot of upward force on the pole. You really need both lines to control the pole. I still use the mast ring even with my true spinnakers. You will get better sail adjustment with a car/track but the ring will suffice for casual racing. You can easily make a bridle for the whisker pole by using 1/4" dacron line with an O ring in the middle of each line. Another small line serves as a release line for the pole jaws. I use a Forespar 8-14' whisker pole which the factory told me would be ok for a spinnaker with winds up to 15 mph true. Someday when a few extra hundred dollars come along I'll upgrade to a true spinnaker pole! If you have a 2-piece adjustable pole, be careful when reaching in winds approaching 15 with the pole near the forestay as the sideways force can break the pole at the joint. When I added my spinnaker gear, I had to add a triple deck organizer on the port side for the spinnaker halyard, topping lift and downhaul. These lines were led aft to a triple rope clutch and another winch on the cabin top. Hope this helps. Dick Vance "Honey Bear"
Michael, I mounted the padeye for the topping lift block on the mast of my 25.5 by drilling holes and using stainless pop-rivets to hold it. It has held up fine for 5 years of hard racing. I would also suggest a down haul for the pole as wind gusts tend to place a lot of upward force on the pole. You really need both lines to control the pole. I still use the mast ring even with my true spinnakers. You will get better sail adjustment with a car/track but the ring will suffice for casual racing. You can easily make a bridle for the whisker pole by using 1/4" dacron line with an O ring in the middle of each line. Another small line serves as a release line for the pole jaws. I use a Forespar 8-14' whisker pole which the factory told me would be ok for a spinnaker with winds up to 15 mph true. Someday when a few extra hundred dollars come along I'll upgrade to a true spinnaker pole! If you have a 2-piece adjustable pole, be careful when reaching in winds approaching 15 with the pole near the forestay as the sideways force can break the pole at the joint. When I added my spinnaker gear, I had to add a triple deck organizer on the port side for the spinnaker halyard, topping lift and downhaul. These lines were led aft to a triple rope clutch and another winch on the cabin top. Hope this helps. Dick Vance "Honey Bear"
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Cliff Ruckstuhl
Sail size
Michael, You may want to talk to your sail maker also. A cruising spinnaker is a smaller sail than a regular spinnaker. You will take the hit for a regular spinnaker on the handicap, there is know difference on the handicap number. On my 25.5 there is about 100 sq/ft difference in size so it will make a difference on your performance. I've talked with the people that do the numbers for portsmith and as of now there is Know difference in the number for your handicap
Michael, You may want to talk to your sail maker also. A cruising spinnaker is a smaller sail than a regular spinnaker. You will take the hit for a regular spinnaker on the handicap, there is know difference on the handicap number. On my 25.5 there is about 100 sq/ft difference in size so it will make a difference on your performance. I've talked with the people that do the numbers for portsmith and as of now there is Know difference in the number for your handicap
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Tony Re
Reaching vs.Downwind
Cliff and Dick are right on the money. I would like to add a few suggestions... Food for thought. 1) The true Spinnaker can make the difference as to your sailing to your "proper Course". Remember ..It can go straight down wind, so you can get to the mark without jibing, as with a geniker, cruising spinnaker, asymetrica; etc. you end up reaching and must jibe. 2) Its worth the extra hit with PHRF! 3) Go for the track an the mast because you won't have to upgrade again. 4) Do you have toe rails? My 40 hunter doues. If so make a small bridle attach to the toerails in front and rig up your downhall. (this is a must!) 5) As for the topping .. pop rivet a good strong padeye on you mast and put a blockattached and then run the topping haylard through it. Now hahe a cleat so at the bottom of the mast or run it back to the "pit" to lock it in place and adjust it. 6 As for the Spinnaker haylard ..Is you boat rigged for it? At the top of the mast I have 4 sheeves facing forward ..Two for the Jib, two for the spinnaker ..one for port, one for starboared ...All used racing ..I have a double foil to change sails without remmoving the current sail. 7) Remember you must leave your jib up to cower the wind while hoisting the Spinnaker. That means you need at least 2 haylards forward. 80 If your serious... which you will be eventually... Get rid of the roller!!! PS. I race almost every week... I got the gun this week "A Fleet" and took 2nd in this Sieries. This is a real competitve fleet here in the South pugit Sound. Took 4th in Swiftsure, a 123 mile race, and 21st overall out of 184 boats ... I do know a little what I am talking about ..atlaest on larger boats ... I do not know the standard rigging of the 25.5 hunter.
Cliff and Dick are right on the money. I would like to add a few suggestions... Food for thought. 1) The true Spinnaker can make the difference as to your sailing to your "proper Course". Remember ..It can go straight down wind, so you can get to the mark without jibing, as with a geniker, cruising spinnaker, asymetrica; etc. you end up reaching and must jibe. 2) Its worth the extra hit with PHRF! 3) Go for the track an the mast because you won't have to upgrade again. 4) Do you have toe rails? My 40 hunter doues. If so make a small bridle attach to the toerails in front and rig up your downhall. (this is a must!) 5) As for the topping .. pop rivet a good strong padeye on you mast and put a blockattached and then run the topping haylard through it. Now hahe a cleat so at the bottom of the mast or run it back to the "pit" to lock it in place and adjust it. 6 As for the Spinnaker haylard ..Is you boat rigged for it? At the top of the mast I have 4 sheeves facing forward ..Two for the Jib, two for the spinnaker ..one for port, one for starboared ...All used racing ..I have a double foil to change sails without remmoving the current sail. 7) Remember you must leave your jib up to cower the wind while hoisting the Spinnaker. That means you need at least 2 haylards forward. 80 If your serious... which you will be eventually... Get rid of the roller!!! PS. I race almost every week... I got the gun this week "A Fleet" and took 2nd in this Sieries. This is a real competitve fleet here in the South pugit Sound. Took 4th in Swiftsure, a 123 mile race, and 21st overall out of 184 boats ... I do know a little what I am talking about ..atlaest on larger boats ... I do not know the standard rigging of the 25.5 hunter.
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Michael O'Hara
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for all your help, guys - looks like my "pencil design" was right on. Tony - You brought up a LOT of info and questions... most of which I can answer by saying that my brother and I have been racing for years (he won the Chicago/Mac race last year), but not on my H25!! And if I ever get "serious" about racing, you're right about getting rid of furling and gennakers. But (1) most of my sailing has been single-handed until this year, (2) the "Narrow Escape" is up for sale, so no major gear changes are in the works, and (3)anyone who is "serious" is not sailing a 1981 H25!!! Yes, I have a toe-rail (bless Hunter!) and I use it for rigging the downhaul. As for halyard sheeves, I've got only two, but I use the jib halyard for the spinnaker since the roller furler doesn't use it. Sounds like you're doing well - doing "serious" - in your fleet! Congrats! And thanks again for all the help! Michael O'
Thanks for all your help, guys - looks like my "pencil design" was right on. Tony - You brought up a LOT of info and questions... most of which I can answer by saying that my brother and I have been racing for years (he won the Chicago/Mac race last year), but not on my H25!! And if I ever get "serious" about racing, you're right about getting rid of furling and gennakers. But (1) most of my sailing has been single-handed until this year, (2) the "Narrow Escape" is up for sale, so no major gear changes are in the works, and (3)anyone who is "serious" is not sailing a 1981 H25!!! Yes, I have a toe-rail (bless Hunter!) and I use it for rigging the downhaul. As for halyard sheeves, I've got only two, but I use the jib halyard for the spinnaker since the roller furler doesn't use it. Sounds like you're doing well - doing "serious" - in your fleet! Congrats! And thanks again for all the help! Michael O'
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