To All, My hunter racing machine Sundance is up on the hill after Hurricane IVAN tooks its toll of my hull and forestay, etc. I have considered for some time a project to cover over the large void in the center of the hull, bottom side where the prop shaft exits. A recent photo of the area is attached. Has any of the list covered over this void on their Hunter Legent 35 of 35.3 series ?? If so was it worth the effort ?? RD
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Bob, Where did you have your boat?
I saw picture of the marina at the foot of Palafox and it was destroyed. Picture is from Jan 2003 My parents live in Brownsville and I graduated from Escambia High year unknown..... Jim S/V Java
I saw picture of the marina at the foot of Palafox and it was destroyed. Picture is from Jan 2003 My parents live in Brownsville and I graduated from Escambia High year unknown..... Jim S/V Java
Closure
I had seen a race rigged 34 close this in many years ago, presumably for the same reason; less drag. However, though I've toyed with the idea myself for my 28.5, I havent done it. First, I think the location is directly behind the turbulence of the keel root, so I don't know how much effect a closure would have anyway. Secondly, the growth, slime and barnacles that would build up on the inside of the cavity would concern me as would possible interference with future removal of the shaft should it be necessary. That said, if you epoxied small clip angles along the sides and fastened two 1/8" thick fiberglas infill panels (one in front and one behind the shaft) with countersunk screws, then faired in the joints, you could close it off and still have it removeable with minor effort. Have you have already faired the keel and hull , the hull to keel joint, the strut and all your thru-hulls? Then perhaps look at the drag at the top of the rudder. Who knows, there may be some minute gains to be had, and races have been won by mere seconds.
I had seen a race rigged 34 close this in many years ago, presumably for the same reason; less drag. However, though I've toyed with the idea myself for my 28.5, I havent done it. First, I think the location is directly behind the turbulence of the keel root, so I don't know how much effect a closure would have anyway. Secondly, the growth, slime and barnacles that would build up on the inside of the cavity would concern me as would possible interference with future removal of the shaft should it be necessary. That said, if you epoxied small clip angles along the sides and fastened two 1/8" thick fiberglas infill panels (one in front and one behind the shaft) with countersunk screws, then faired in the joints, you could close it off and still have it removeable with minor effort. Have you have already faired the keel and hull , the hull to keel joint, the strut and all your thru-hulls? Then perhaps look at the drag at the top of the rudder. Who knows, there may be some minute gains to be had, and races have been won by mere seconds.
It can be done,
It can be done and it would reduce drag more that you would think. To do it you would have to remove the shaft and the current stuffing box and then have a fiberglass tube glassed in in place of the fitting. to do this you would want to remove the shaft, cut a hole in the bottom to remove the entire area, then install the shaft with a fiberglass tube slightly larger than the shaft in the whole. and then glass that into place using the shaft to hold the tube and align it with the strutt. then the stuffing box would be installed with ha rubber hose on the inside of the boat. The problem is space. i am not sure but i dont think you have the room to put all this in a 34 but i may be wrong, and it would cost a bit to do. then the outside would have to be built back up and then finished to fair it in to the rest of the boat. Ps it will be expesive! and probably not worth the investment.
It can be done and it would reduce drag more that you would think. To do it you would have to remove the shaft and the current stuffing box and then have a fiberglass tube glassed in in place of the fitting. to do this you would want to remove the shaft, cut a hole in the bottom to remove the entire area, then install the shaft with a fiberglass tube slightly larger than the shaft in the whole. and then glass that into place using the shaft to hold the tube and align it with the strutt. then the stuffing box would be installed with ha rubber hose on the inside of the boat. The problem is space. i am not sure but i dont think you have the room to put all this in a 34 but i may be wrong, and it would cost a bit to do. then the outside would have to be built back up and then finished to fair it in to the rest of the boat. Ps it will be expesive! and probably not worth the investment.
We've done it....
....it's not expensive, it's removable, and it does reduce drag. We made 2 plastic panels that join at the center line. They are installed with countersunk screws. However, based on the photo posted of the prop shaft in question, the bottom is not in racing condition. This job is something that you do when everything else has been done. Meaning a faired bottom with flush thru hulls and a super fast bottom job. Closing up this opening will not help if you don't have the rest of the underbody to go with it.
....it's not expensive, it's removable, and it does reduce drag. We made 2 plastic panels that join at the center line. They are installed with countersunk screws. However, based on the photo posted of the prop shaft in question, the bottom is not in racing condition. This job is something that you do when everything else has been done. Meaning a faired bottom with flush thru hulls and a super fast bottom job. Closing up this opening will not help if you don't have the rest of the underbody to go with it.
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