shaft coupling for hunter 35.5

[minvan91]

I am trying to separate the coupling from the shaft on my 1992 hunter 35.5. I'm sure that many other models have more room to work on the problem. This boat has a bronze shaft that has attached it self to the steel coupling. I have unbolted the coupling and inserted a 3/4" socket in between the two pieces. Using 2 1/2" 3/8" grade 8 bolts I am trying the break it loose. Any suggestions?

PB Blaster has been generously applied to help break things free. This situation is fairly specific to the 35.5 in that there is very little room to work with. The stuffing box, coupler, transmission all occupy a very small area and on larger boats like the 37.5 it is less of a problem.

 

[Bill1565]

Try heating the coupling with a hair dryer or heat gun. Take up what you can on the bolts. Then add more PB. Repeat as necessary. Once took me 5 days to get a steering wheel off it's shaft .

 

[Ed Schenck]

So you have a socket against the flywheel flange and the end of the shaft? And the socket presses only on the shaft, does not hang up against the coupling? Except for adding heat it is hard to see how you could do better.

Is the key exposed where you could use visegrips to extract it? Some other ideas will be forthcoming I am sure. Personally never had the problem. A couple of raps with a heavy hammer loosened mine immediately. Almost 30 years old.

 

[Alan]

Have you removed the 2 locking screws in the side of the coupling? These two screws are set at 90 degrees to eachother and are safety wired.
Heating is an excellent idea but you should try to direct the heat at the flange only and minimize the heat that reaches the shaft by covering the shaft while using a heat gun. Also packing the shaft with dry ice will aid this process. While using the heating process keep the pressure on the flange pressing bolts and check them for sufficient tightness.

 

[minvan91]

Thanks for the ideas. I hadn't thought of the heat and cold. I was afraid to use a torch in such a confined space. I have no problem with trying a heat gun. I am having a 2 ft handle welded to a 9/16" wrench today to get to the nuts between the coupling and the transmission. I will also take a mirror to make sure the socket is only touching the end of the shaft. Maybe by the end of the weekend it will come apart!

 

[pdfox]

Shaft Coupling

If you are going to have to replace the shaft anyway due to wear I would suggest cutting the shaft behind the coupling. Once the coupling is out of the boat a hydraulic press can be used to remove the remaining shaft from the coupling. Sometimes the coupling can be reused on a new shaft, but might need to be replaced.

 

[Randy Trautman]

Re: Shaft Coupling

I used a gear puller from Harbor Freight and a torch on my HL35. You're right, it is tight! Get it good and tight then warm it up. If it doesn't loosen right away, go do something else. Sometimes they pop after sitting for a while. Think about going to a SS shaft, much less flex and knocking about!

Randy
sv Dolce

 

[BroadReach]

REMOVING de COUPLER

Try a solution called KROIL. by far and away the best.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Soak the parts and give it a day or so

Broad Reach