S2 9.2A Rudder Mount Bolts

[Bob McKee]

I have started to see rust streaks from the rudder mount bolts inside the hull. The boat is due to come out of the water for paint and zincs this spring. What issues, problems, and procedures will I be facing in repairing this area? Are these bolts relatively easy to remove and replace or is it a long, involved process?
In the last five years I have repaired both center mast stay chain plates, upgraded the engine from a Yanmar YSE12 to a 3GMD, installed an actual support under the mast beneath the floor, replaced the Plexiglas window ports, and replace the water heater. I just don't want to go into this rudder problem thinking it's a matter of changing bolts when it involves taking a chain saw to the stern.

 

[woodster]

I have started to see rust streaks from the rudder mount bolts inside the hull. The boat is due to come out of the water for paint and zincs this spring. What issues, problems, and procedures will I be facing in repairing this area? Are these bolts relatively easy to remove and replace or is it a long, involved process?
In the last five years I have repaired both center mast stay chain plates, upgraded the engine from a Yanmar YSE12 to a 3GMD, installed an actual support under the mast beneath the floor, replaced the Plexiglas window ports, and replace the water heater. I just don't want to go into this rudder problem thinking it's a matter of changing bolts when it involves taking a chain saw to the stern.

if you are refering to the rudder tube that is going through the hull...it is secured with Lag Screws and if they are in tact you can remove them by unscrewing them with a ratchet wrench.... the sad part is that they are more than likely iron or steel with flat washers on them that is where your rust is coming from ....i am not sure if replaceing them with ss is the best option but i do know that the bronze Lag screws are very expensive....you may have to use a large pair of vise grips if the heade are worn off by the rust....

hope this helps...

regards

woody

 

[eobpt]

Can you explain your process for rebuilding the area under the compression post. Thank you

Eric

 

[Bob McKee]

Compression Post Rebuild

Can you explain your process for rebuilding the area under the compression post. Thank you

Eric

I saw that the floor aft of the head was sagged and the door to the head was misaligned, so I naturally just had to investigate. There was NO support under the floor.
I removed the holding tank and cut a hole about 15" square to gain to the area under the post (I used the piece I cut out to make a removable hatch). There is another repair on this site with photographs, unfortunately I didn't take any. The other repair is much more involved that mine, but may be better. The mast stays need to be loosened, a lot. I removed the door to the head, about 50 screws, and used a 4X4 and hydraulic jack to jack the aft end of the door into position. I used a piece of teak about 4X4Xtall enough to almost fit under the floor and some slightly tapered teak or oak wedges (don't remember exactly) that I had treated with some wood preservative. These were hammered tightly into the space. There is not a lot of room to work with this method, but it doesn't open the boat too much.
My feeling on not cutting the floor to get complete access was that getting a tight support under the post was way better than not having any support at all. If you would like to talk more, send a private message and I will call you.