A quick off the wall question - when rigging the shouds the lower shouds go to the forward chainplate loop, and the upper shrouds go to the aft chainplate loop, right? I have had it like this since I purchased the boat. What made me think of it was this part of an old post - "My biggest recommendation to trailer sailors. Pull off the 4 chain plates on the shrouds and throw them away right now!!! I mean it ...right now!!!! Replace them with 4 Johnson Marine lever type shroud adjusters, small size, Johnson part number 15-212(see link below). Secure them to the boat with 4 Ball Lok Quick Relase pins, 3/4" by 1/4". Mount them so that the upper and lower shroud adjusters open opposite one another...uppers should open forward and the lowers should open rearward." Would there be enough room for them to open into each other?
Rig question
- Thread starter John Radcliff
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John, The baby shrouds go forward, the main shrouds go aft. Make it so that the forward chain plate lever opens forward and the aft chain plate lever opens aft. I did this upgrade. It is a nice addition. I was able to buy the new chain plates for about $25 each. It is the best way to maintain the proper tension in the shrouds without risking damage to the rigging by winching the halyard or topping lift.
John, The baby shrouds go forward, the main shrouds go aft. Make it so that the forward chain plate lever opens forward and the aft chain plate lever opens aft. I did this upgrade. It is a nice addition. I was able to buy the new chain plates for about $25 each. It is the best way to maintain the proper tension in the shrouds without risking damage to the rigging by winching the halyard or topping lift.
Thought so
That is what I thought. I think I am going to replace the uppers with these, and leave the lowers stock. Thankfully, I have the ability to keep her rigged all the time and in the water. I could only see pulling her for a hurricane. You have not had any problems with the 500# working load on the small ones?
That is what I thought. I think I am going to replace the uppers with these, and leave the lowers stock. Thankfully, I have the ability to keep her rigged all the time and in the water. I could only see pulling her for a hurricane. You have not had any problems with the 500# working load on the small ones?
Whatever you do...
Don't erect the mast alone. Get it pre-set and snare a passerby to pin the forestay as you walk the mast up straight. Repeat: do not do this alone.
Don't erect the mast alone. Get it pre-set and snare a passerby to pin the forestay as you walk the mast up straight. Repeat: do not do this alone.
Very easy to do as well.Johnsons are a great idea
Hi guys, These Johnson 15-212 levers are definitely awesome. Just saw your post and had to comment. I've had them on my 170 for about a year now and LOVE them. I only have them on the upper shrouds...but they make tensioning the rig so danged easy and fast it's not even funny. Great little investment. Happy sailing, Mike G. s/v Lil Sport
Hi guys, These Johnson 15-212 levers are definitely awesome. Just saw your post and had to comment. I've had them on my 170 for about a year now and LOVE them. I only have them on the upper shrouds...but they make tensioning the rig so danged easy and fast it's not even funny. Great little investment. Happy sailing, Mike G. s/v Lil Sport
Raising the mast solo
Hi again Bill and John, Saw Bill's mast-raising comment and wanted to let you guys know the method that I like: I walk the mast up by myself and once it's raised, I walk the topping lift line around foreward of the mast, tension it (briefly holding the mast up with it-- but when the mast is straight vertical of course this requires very little effort) and cleat it off onto a bow cleat. Once that's secure, I walk the main halyard around forward of the shrouds, loosen the trailer winch and clasp the bow-eye winch "hook" into the d-schackle of the halyard. Making sure the cockpit end of the halyard is cleated off/tensioned, I then crank in on the winch to slightly bend the mast forward. This makes it super-easy to clip the forestay pin into the bow furling drum --it essentially sags the forestay so that there's no wrestling with a tight forestay or the furler pin. Once the pin's in, I then release the winch tension and release the topping lift- bringing it and the halyard back aft as normal. Then I go aft and close/tension the Johnson levers. Of course, it's important to do it in this order! I find it's really nice to have the tension totally off the forestay (using the winch) while performing this operation. Believe it or not, once I got this method down, it became a timesaver too. I'm down to 35 minutes rigging time. Best, Mike G.
Hi again Bill and John, Saw Bill's mast-raising comment and wanted to let you guys know the method that I like: I walk the mast up by myself and once it's raised, I walk the topping lift line around foreward of the mast, tension it (briefly holding the mast up with it-- but when the mast is straight vertical of course this requires very little effort) and cleat it off onto a bow cleat. Once that's secure, I walk the main halyard around forward of the shrouds, loosen the trailer winch and clasp the bow-eye winch "hook" into the d-schackle of the halyard. Making sure the cockpit end of the halyard is cleated off/tensioned, I then crank in on the winch to slightly bend the mast forward. This makes it super-easy to clip the forestay pin into the bow furling drum --it essentially sags the forestay so that there's no wrestling with a tight forestay or the furler pin. Once the pin's in, I then release the winch tension and release the topping lift- bringing it and the halyard back aft as normal. Then I go aft and close/tension the Johnson levers. Of course, it's important to do it in this order! I find it's really nice to have the tension totally off the forestay (using the winch) while performing this operation. Believe it or not, once I got this method down, it became a timesaver too. I'm down to 35 minutes rigging time. Best, Mike G.
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