Repairing Hunter 40 damage from Hurricane Matthew

May 8, 2013
537
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Mind giving us amateurs a lesson? What paint did you use and how much did you thin it? I've used perfection and if I didn't thin it, it was impossible and still hard not to get orange peel even with thinning it 10%. I guess thats why you did wet sanding between coats eh?
One of the things I found with Perfection (love the paint, BTW) is that different colors have different viscosities. Don't know why, but when I painted the hull the white was too thin out of the can to thin (does that make sense?) but the blue I used for the cove stripes and boot stripe needed thinning to almost 20% to roll well. Unfortunately with any 2-part urethane it gets expensive to do much testing beforehand.

One thing I did which made the biggest difference was to use 1/4" nap velour rollers. Even a 3/8" nap roller left lots of orange peel. Best I can recommend is to use the shortest nap roller you can find and try thinning a bit more. And if you can, mix the smallest batch you can from the can - use tiny measuring cups - and test :).

For the dodger I used Interlux Brightsides - I tried to find Perfection but it's pretty much unobtanium right now. The wet sanding between coats was just as you said, to smooth the surface for the next coat. I started with 220 grit moving to 320 and 400 before the final coat. The finish is not glass-smooth but I'll hit it with the buffer and compound in a few months to polish it up.
 
May 8, 2013
537
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Awesome work !
When are you going to take over Marlow Hunter and start designing and building the perfect cruising sailboats ⛵
Hah! Notwithstanding that the perfect cruising boat probably doesn't exist, I'd lose the equivalent of the current national debt on each boat trying to make it perfect :biggrin:.
 
May 8, 2013
537
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Deck enclosure/hard dodger, Part (insert random number here):

Window time. I had previously trimmed the acrylic to fit the openings and after letting the top paint cure for a few days it was time to start closing it up. I had debated the best way to seal them in. One of the guys on the dock said he did his windows with 3M 2-sided tape. At first I didn't think that would work well but a local surveyor stopped by (he has been watching my progress) and said the same thing about the tape. I then thought, well dummy, this is the same tape that is holding the fender flares and most of the trim onto your recently painted truck. Maybe there IS something to this idea! So after a little more contemplation, the windows went in using 2-sided tape:





the tape will not completely seal the window borders though, so after they were in I taped off the edges and went to town with Dow 795:



And here she is:



Next up, companionway doors!

Cheers,

Mark
 
Oct 13, 2021
1
Hunter 40 Legend Oolaga
Wow! Read all 54 pages over the last couple of days - Great Job Mark. I also own a Hunter 40 that had storm damage last year.
Couple questions: Sugar Scoop - Did you add this?
You have any photos of the Mast down and the Mast Plate on the deck? looking how the wires run thru the mast at the deck level.

Many thanks,
CSM
 
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Likes: B757Captain
Jan 7, 2011
2,918
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
Deck enclosure/hard dodger, Part (insert random number here):

Window time. I had previously trimmed the acrylic to fit the openings and after letting the top paint cure for a few days it was time to start closing it up. I had debated the best way to seal them in. One of the guys on the dock said he did his windows with 3M 2-sided tape. At first I didn't think that would work well but a local surveyor stopped by (he has been watching my progress) and said the same thing about the tape. I then thought, well dummy, this is the same tape that is holding the fender flares and most of the trim onto your recently painted truck. Maybe there IS something to this idea! So after a little more contemplation, the windows went in using 2-sided tape:





the tape will not completely seal the window borders though, so after they were in I taped off the edges and went to town with Dow 795:



And here she is:



Next up, companionway doors!

Cheers,

Mark
Looks very “stealthy”…

nice.


Greg
 
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May 8, 2013
537
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Wow! Read all 54 pages over the last couple of days - Great Job Mark. I also own a Hunter 40 that had storm damage last year.
Couple questions: Sugar Scoop - Did you add this?
You have any photos of the Mast down and the Mast Plate on the deck? looking how the wires run thru the mast at the deck level.

Many thanks,
CSM
Welcome aboard! I did not add the sugar scoop. When I bought the boat I was told by the broker (or maybe the PO) that the SS was a factory option. I do know from my hull painting process that the hull had to have been painted when the SS was added since the original boot stripe was gel coat - and did not extend to the sugar scoop. So my guess is that either the factory added it and painted the hull or whoever added it later did it. Either way, an expensive option all told. Having said that I love it!

I looked through all my photos and no pics of the mast base - sorry. I did remove and reseal it and can tell you there are two holes in the base for the cabling to pass through and the holes are not big enough for what we want wired through our mast these days. If I had not changed the wiring for the LED lights to 18 gauge there would not have been enough space for all the wiring, coax and cabling. The original wiring ran straight through the base, through the compression post to a junction box in the bilge. I will be changing that and adding a waterproof junction box at the base of the mast for wiring access.

Cheers,

Mark
 
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Jan 17, 2010
11
Hunter Legend 40 Edgewater
I have the same boat and need to replace the rudder bearings and need information on how to tackle the project. Have you taken a look at your rudder bearings?
 
May 8, 2013
537
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
I have the same boat and need to replace the rudder bearings and need information on how to tackle the project. Have you taken a look at your rudder bearings?
I checked the rudder bearings during the assessment prior to repairs starting and they were still good. I have not dropped the rudder since I didn't feel it needed to come off, so can't add any info for you there. I can add a bit of personal advise though:

When you are ready - after 4+ years on the hard - to splash the boat, and you check the rudder movement and find it really stiff and binding, and you panic and start looking for all manner of things wrong, take a minute, catch your breath (and bearings ;)) and check to see if you (had forgotten that you) cranked down on the steering lock - before you start tearing things apart! :yikes::biggrin:

Just a tip ;)

Mark
 
Jun 8, 2004
207
Hunter 49 60803 Lake Erie
I read some where that after Dow 795 cures for the 14 days it pits with repeated washings. Have you used it before on windows or deck areas that would be subject to multiple scrub downs over the years? and if so have any pitting problems? I want to rebed the skylight deck windows on my boat and I was thinking of trying Dow 795 over the 3M products (of course my buddy a 3M rep will kick my butt if he finds out ... so no one blab to him)
 
Jun 1, 2009
1,363
Hunter 49 toronto
I read some where that after Dow 795 cures for the 14 days it pits with repeated washings. Have you used it before on windows or deck areas that would be subject to multiple scrub downs over the years? and if so have any pitting problems? I want to rebed the skylight deck windows on my boat and I was thinking of trying Dow 795 over the 3M products (of course my buddy a 3M rep will kick my butt if he finds out ... so no one blab to him)
Thanks for posting this…
I’ve used 795 for several window re-beds, and I just wasn’t thrilled in the long run.
When I replaced my skylights 2 years ago, I went with Sikaflex, and I’m much happier.
My honest opinion is that 795 is an industrial adhesive, used in countless buildings & windows. It’s a LOT cheaper than Sikaflex, and doesn’t require primer.
I can understand Hunter using it on a cost basis, but after using it several times, and my recent experiences with Sikaflex , I’m sold on the benefits of the higher price.
795 takes a long time to firm up. That was one of the reasons that Hunter used screws to hold the windshields in, after bedding them down.
I tried not using screws on my 40.5 side window replacements, and found that the windows shifted a lot owing to the setup time on the 795.
Hunter saved a fortune using 795 versus SF, but as an owner doing the job once, it makes no sense to use something based on price.
I also find the SF surface to have a smoother texture than 795. Small detail, but I found it noticable.
Hunter used 795 on all the flexteak panel installs. When I upgraded my cockpit to full teak (write up coming), I also opted for SF.
The main application for 795 in industrial applications is vertical glass windows and casements. I think it’s well suited for this.
But, on the boat, it’s a lot of flat surfaces, (especially in the cockpit, and on the coachroof)
I am more comfortable with SF here because it bonds better. Perhaps, this is due in part to the rather costly primer.
So, that’s my 2 cents. I’m sure there will be some disagreement on this, but the value of opinions is that everyone is entitled to have one
 
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Apr 5, 2009
1,620
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
Thanks for posting this…
I’ve used 795 for several window re-beds, and I just wasn’t thrilled in the long run.
This summer, I replaced the acrylic in my fixed ports and used UHB and 795 and have been extremely happy with the results. I did not mind the long cure time because the UHB tape held everything very tight. I did not even need to brace the lens for the curvature of the house because the tape held the curve.
 
May 8, 2013
537
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
I debated whether to use 795 vs. SF (or LifeSeal) but after a few fails over the years - mostly with 4200 - with UV degradation I went with 795 because it (supposedly) has better UV resistance long-term. I hadn't heard about any pitting issues like TK brought up but will watch for that. I also had a tube of 795 laying around - that was a big factor in the decision to use it! :thumbup:
 
May 8, 2013
537
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Companionway doors:

Building the doors turned out to be one of the simpler parts of adding the hard top! Measure once, cut twice a few times and - voila! - doors:



The center of the doors are 3/4 ply, the hinges are 3/8th offset so the doors both flange against the opening and inset into it. The port-side door is captured by the center flange so only one latch is required and I built in enough of a gap between the doors and the opening for a rubber seal to (hopefully) keep most of the water on the outside!

Next up was to figure out how to latch the doors closed. This turned out to be a head-scratcher. I needed the latch to be openable both from the inside and outside, it needed to capture the starboard side door to the hatch, and it needed to be lockable. All my research with the marine parts industry led down a path that ended with a door latch that cost in the neighborhood of $200+, and I wasn't really happy with the handles. Sooo - hardware store to the rescue:



I figured I'd give this a try - for $24 I can experiment a lot trying for the perfect solution! First up was some measuring, then a hole saw and further relieving on the door to fit the mechanism:



And now to cap it off:



Here it is installed:



And from the outside:



Works like a champ! We'll see over time if the handle is too cumbersome (I wanted something a little smaller but couldn't find anything suitable). When I start finishing the inside of the enclosure I will add a more robust door retaining system - most likely a drawbar arrangement - for use underway but this so far is doing the job at the dock :).

Next up, it all comes apart for finishing.

Cheers,

Mark
 
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Jan 17, 2010
11
Hunter Legend 40 Edgewater
Attached is a photo of my rudder bearing on my H40. The steering quadrant is dragging on the stop angles. The UHMW bearing is not flush with the bearing surface and I am not sure if it was like that when it was built or if it has worn down and now the stop angles are holding it out of true.
 

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May 8, 2013
537
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Attached is a photo of my rudder bearing on my H40. The steering quadrant is dragging on the stop angles. The UHMW bearing is not flush with the bearing surface and I am not sure if it was like that when it was built or if it has worn down and now the stop angles are holding it out of true.
I'll try to remember to get a pic of what mine looks like - was tied up all day today but will be back on the boat tomorrow.