Repairing Hunter 40 damage from Hurricane Matthew

May 8, 2013
536
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Is 2.1.1 and 2.1.2 ABYC or the racing rules? Either way my boat was not compliant before :yikes::biggrin:.

My doors will not have window openings in them, they will be solid. I'll have enough light coming in from the windows in the dodger to not need them and I will build in a way to secure the doors and hatch beyond a simple hasp.
 
Apr 5, 2009
1,616
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
Is 2.1.1 and 2.1.2 ABYC or the racing rules? Either way my boat was not compliant before :yikes::biggrin:.

My doors will not have window openings in them, they will be solid. I'll have enough light coming in from the windows in the dodger to not need them and I will build in a way to secure the doors and hatch beyond a simple hasp.
PNW SER's (Safety Equipment Requirements) They have different levels base on the challenges of the race. Nearshore, Inshore, Coastal, Offshore and Ocean. The mid-distance and over-night races that I like best are in the Coastal classification. I use the SER's for the basis for my standard equipment for the type of water I sail in. I will deploy my jacklines and lanyards when I head out into the straights not because it is required but because it is prudent.
 
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JRacer

.
Aug 9, 2011
1,239
Beneteau 310 Cheney KS (Wichita)
Mark:

FYI. I replaced my wood hatch boards with "Seaboard". 3/4 inch thick. Had to machine the edge to fit the 3/4 inch track to allow for expansion. Worked out great. Heavier than the wood boards they replaced. But, zero maintenance from then on out. Got the Seaboard in less than full sheet size from usplastics.com. Their tech support was very helpful in determining how much material to remove along the edges to give the needed room for expansion on those 110 degree days we see now and then. PS: was in your neck of the woods last week, son got married in Charleston where he lives. He's a C-17 pilot based there and just got back from the overseas CF moving cattle.

B310_Hatch_Boards_Seaboard_IMG_20200725_203156829_HDR - Small.jpg
 
May 8, 2013
536
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Deck enclosure/hard dodger, Part one hundred and eleventy twelve:

Work continues! I added the final doorway edge pieces and here's the entryway:



At this point I have no more excuses - time for filler! This is the tedious part - fill, sand, fill, sand, lather, rinse, repeat:



Disregard the bare spot in the center of the pic - I found a dry/dodgy laminated area so I ground it out and re-glassed that spot. It was between the first and second cloth layup - the foam/base layer was fine). No need to wait on the rest of the filler though, I will go back and fill that spot later. Several days later as it turned out because I ran out of 407 and all the stores in town were out too!

Several days later I could start the fill/sand/fill process again:



And here is a random pic during that process:



I'm pretty happy with the layup - the max thickness of filler anywhere was about 1/16". Not too bad for an amateur :biggrin:.

Next up, fill, sand, fill, sand, PRIMER!, fill, sand, fill, sand (you get the idea ;)).

Cheers,

Mark
 
Apr 5, 2009
1,616
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
...
I'm pretty happy with the layup - the max thickness of filler anywhere was about 1/16". Not too bad for an amateur :biggrin:.

Next up, fill, sand, fill, sand, PRIMER!, fill, sand, fill, sand (you get the idea ;)).

Cheers,

Mark
That is looking fantastic. I really like how its shape looks like it was designed there from the beginning.
How are you finding the surface quality of the 407? I have seen several DIT Youtuber who find that it gets a lot of tiny pin-holes which are hard to paint over. Have you ever tried TotalFair?
 
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May 8, 2013
536
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
That is looking fantastic. I really like how its shape looks like it was designed there from the beginning.
How are you finding the surface quality of the 407? I have seen several DIT Youtuber who find that it gets a lot of tiny pin-holes which are hard to paint over. Have you ever tried TotalFair?
I have used TotaFair and I like it but I have several local sources for West Systems so it's just easier to use WS - don't have to remember to keep the supplies stocked ahead of time.

I don't have enough experience with TF to know about mixing additives with it. One plus with WS is any of their additives can be mixed and matched, and viscosity can be varied easily, which I do regularly to suit my various needs. As far as the pinholes and bubbles, that to me is an application technique thing - I rarely get any pinholes but I tend to work the filler during application more - TF is better for wipe on and walk away. If you do that with WS+additive it will have pinholes.
 
May 8, 2013
536
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Fantastic job Captain. You are going to be spending a lot of time explaining to people that they can't get this model Hunter because it's not a factory build.

-Will
But, you may have found a second career in your retirement. :biggrin:
I've already had one request to custom build a dodger and an job offer as a FG repair guy - both of which I said no to! I really think I should finish my boat first!
 
May 8, 2013
536
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Deck enclosure/hard dodger, Part MCVIX:

Where was I? Oh, yeah, sand, fill, sand, fill, sand, fill - PRIMER!!:



And then - sand:



And - fill, sand, fill, sand, PRIMER!!:



It's getting really close now so I took some time out to fit the windows:



I had them cut at a local glass/acrylic place slightly oversize so I could do the final trimming, and oh, boy!, little granules of plastic dust everywhere!

I also got a coat of primer underneath:



And primed the window channels. And finally the final coat of (epoxy) primer:



There will be at least one more coat of primer (in white for the final block sand) but it's getting closer!

Cheers,

Mark
 
May 8, 2013
536
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Deck enclosure/hard dodger, Part one million (and four):

More primer (!!??! :yikes:):



And the final block sand:



Disregard the "tiger stripes" in the pic, I had just rinsed the top off and it hadn't dried. No more excuses, time for paint. First coat:



I did two heavy coats with a wet sand between, then switched to a finer grit and another wet sand then two more thinned coats. I think it turned out pretty good, so after a few days to cure I assembled the rails for the hatch and installed the hatch:



I tried to account for the paint thickness when I first tested-fit the hatch and rails but the hatch had a sticky point during opening. I thought about fixing it right away but figured I'd give it a few days to see if it would work itself out, and it has :).

Next up, windows!

Cheers,

Mark
 

Artey1

.
Jul 18, 2019
140
Hunter 34 Oklahoma
Roll & tip - way too much "outdoors" to safely spray!
Mind giving us amateurs a lesson? What paint did you use and how much did you thin it? I've used perfection and if I didn't thin it, it was impossible and still hard not to get orange peel even with thinning it 10%. I guess thats why you did wet sanding between coats eh?
 
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