Recoring after unsuccesful "Drill and Fill"

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Apr 6, 2013
139
Catalina 310 Annapolis
I purchased a 1976 Catalina 22 last year. It is in good overall condition except for some rotted core material on the cabin top from the sliding hatch forward. When I bought her I knew nothing about "soft decks" but, afterward, sounded it with a screw driver, narrowed the problem area to the cabin top and then did some drill samples. I found much of the area to be moist, rotted wood interspersed with dry core wood. In order to be able to sail this season, I took some advice from a sailing colleague, drilled dozens of holes and filled them with Git Rot. In hindsight, I now realize that probably wasn't too effective as much wood was moist and would probably have not absorbed the epoxy.

I am very comfortable with fiberglass layup as I build wooden small boats sometimes coated with epoxy and fiberglass. And as long as my 22 floats, I don't care a whole lot about how aesthetically pleasing she is. So, this winter I am determined to remove the mast etc. and recore the cabin top forward of the hatch.

My concern is this: Don Casey's book, "This Old Boat" as well a multiple descriptions online, make clear that if done from above (my preference) one tries to remove the top skin in large pieces to reveal the core and then reattach them when recoring is complete. Since I did the drill and fill, am I correct in assuming I won't be able to remove the skin in large pieces because some of it will adhere to the epoxy I injected? If so, am I looking at having to grind off the top skin, replace the wood core and layup a fiberglass skin and fair to the old camber as best as I can (I will settle for a solid surface over a pretty one) . Any other options?

Thanks for advice/ideas!
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,401
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
Although it make break as you try to peal it, for the reason you explained, I doubt it will bond so well you will have to grind it off. So long as you can get a flexible core (Jamestown Dist) laying-up a new skin does not sound so bad. A couple layers of 17 ounce triax and a 1 ounce mat as a veil. If you have spackeled large areas with a wide drywall knife, just do the same with thickened epoxy.

As for cutting the skin, I think you will find that a 4 1/2-inch angle grinder with a metal cut-off wheel will go through it like butter and is easy to control depth by sliding on a guide finger. A hole saw (center bit set very shallow just to start) will give nice round corners.

Leave the core out of any hardware areas (just thickened epoxy)--I'm SURE you already thought of that:)

Good luck!
 
Aug 22, 2011
1,113
MacGregor Venture V224 Cheeseland
Thanks for the great advice and reassurance!


This patch is combo the old skin and some new bi-axe. I did put a plywood core back in but I potted, counter sunk and bedded with butl tape all penetrations. I have since done most of the rest of the area see see here.

Strong but still not pretty (that will come later).

Dude: If dummy old me can do it so can you. 2 years no cracks (yet).
 

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Apr 6, 2013
139
Catalina 310 Annapolis
Very helpful. Thanks!


QUOTE=topcat0399;1046560]This patch is combo the old skin and some new bi-axe. I did put a plywood core back in but I potted, counter sunk and bedded with butl tape all penetrations. I have since done most of the rest of the area see see here.

Strong but still not pretty (that will come later).

Dude: If dummy old me can do it so can you. 2 years no cracks (yet).[/QUOTE]
 
Feb 28, 2005
184
Catalina 22 1909 North East, Md.
Flip it over and repair it from the inside.

Monheganlover,

[FONT=&quot]It is easier to repair the core from the inside and make it look good. It is almost impossible to match the nonskid pattern on the deck after repairing the core and it is hard to epoxy the core over your head without getting it all over you and the interior of the boat. The answer??? Flip it over, it's not as hard as you think, I flipped my C22 over to re-core the entire foredeck from the bow all the way back to the cockpit. Here is a link to the YouTube video I made when I flipped my Boat.[/FONT]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0ArGcq8LpM

[FONT=&quot]If this link doesn't work you can[/FONT][FONT=&quot]copy and paste it into your browser or Google Boat Flip 001 [/FONT]

The ceiling should be easier to patch because it has a random patternthat can be closely copied using crinkled cellophane pushed into the surface of the epoxy or gelcoat before it sets than sand it to knock down any peals that are formed.
 
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